Burge
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Posts posted by Burge
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The hard hat liner might be good for those oversized FX buckets, but any normal sized helm padding wins hands down!
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The good thing about the shims is they don't have to be permanent. Right now they are 1.25" and if I need to change it just drill out the rivets on one side and make the adjustment and re-rivet.
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I needed to shim my thigh armor and I used a vertical vinyl blind that had 3 inch slats. I bought the blind a home depot for around $12. The slats are a fairly good match for the ABS. I also used to to fill the gap between my ab plate. I trimmed and riveted the vinyl in place. I tried it with Velcro first, but it looked too bulky. Hope this hepls
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Does anyone know where i could get a pair of bubble lenses for the MR CE UK!!!!! I just got the helmet, and was wondering where i could get a pair are they the same as an FX one????? Anyone, PLEASE!!!!!!
Why do you need bubble lenses. Isn't it already set up as a stunt helmet or are you filling in the last tooth hole and repainting it for hero style?
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Hey I need suggestions here.
I may be trying to use the ammo belt portion of my belt assembly to use with my canvas belt, which means I'm gonna need to separate these two pieces somehow.
I don't really feel like drilling the rivet heads off if I don't have to, but I thought I'd ask you guys for advice on methods/ approaches?
I wonder if theres a way to keep the back portion on right behind the front part, and attaching that o the canvas somehow...? hmmmm **scratches chin**
Why don't you just trim the ABS that sticks out past the Ammo belt ends and use the velcro that already there to attach to the canvas belt?
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Here is a option for glasses under the bucket. Regular frames might be too restrictive, but in the military people use rubber frames which accept perscription lenses for wear under Gas masks and SCBA firefighting face masks.
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Description/Features
NSN #: 6540-01-104-0304 (48mm) and NSN #: 6540-01-107-4509 (50mm)
Non-reflective, self-adjusting nylon frames
Accept prescription or sunglass lenses
Adjustable rubber headband
USA
Available in 48 mm or 50 mm
Black or Tan
since not everyone has access to perscription military eyewear, they are also sold at
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Dose any one know what the colors are in Testors I know the grey is#1138 what is the blue?
The closest match to the blue in Testors brand I have found was the #1110 Blue. I did mine over a gray primer and they came out great.
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on one of the scenes where luke and crew are driving into mos eisley there are stormtroopers lining either sides of the streets, if you look you can see that the troopers on the left and the troopers on the right of the screen do exactly the same things,sxame stance , everything, as if they just flipped the cgi to save cash, its allways bothered me.!
Not only that, they look like regular troopers not Sandtroopers.
I also hate the big creature taking up the entire screen when luke pulls up to the trooper check point in his speeder
AND :rodian: HAN SHOULD SHOOT FIRST !!
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hi guy's,
sorry for the name,change was made.
find it a pitty that the tk rank is prohibited,but you can't have everything....
Welcome to the FISD boards.
People are welcome to use their TK # , Since this is a 501st detachment those numbers are reserved for 501st members.
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looking good Jim.
I think alot of people will get hit on the corners of the belt. I know Bernard hit me on that too. I think to clear it up the belt referance needs to be added to the elite requirements for ANH stormtrooper as of now I didn't see it covered.
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There where pictures? Did I miss them...
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As far as using the snaps… I did that first and they look ok, but are sized too big. There almost the same size as the FX. If you don't care about accuracy or elite status then the snaps will work just fine.
Your best bet is buy a set from VaderDave for $10 + shipping or make them your self with the ¼ Tandy screw posts and ¼ nylon spacer or a couple of washers.
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Tandy leather supplies screw posts a very good alternative to the large FX buttons suppplied with your kit.
Screw Post 1/4" Nickel Plated Steel 10/pk
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VaderDave,
You can take me off your run 1 list.
Thanks
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I figured I would bump this thread once more now that it is February. Is run 1 still happening or is this project scrapped? Last I read it was early December and these would be shipping in a about 3 weeks? Any new word?
Thanks,
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The only time I have seen the error message was when I didn't have any new posts to see. Other than that it has worked fine on Wndows NT at work and XP at home.
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You do not want welding lens they are going to be way too dark. What you are looking for is the lens for acetylene/Oxygen cutting torches. Welding lens are almost completely blacked out they are so dark.
The face shield kiyotei is refering to is the same thing your talking about. Some people say use "Shade 5" but that is way too dark. The "Shade 3" is great not too light not too dark. The face shield I uesed is made by:
Jackson Protective Faceshields Shade IR/UV # 3.0.
You can pick them up at any welding supply store and cut into a few lenses so if you mess a set up it is no big deal.
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I like the underarmour but have never worn it for trooping. I have a full set of cold gear. My question is what do you guys do to cover the emblem on the back of the neck? Do you leave your neck seals on the outside of the neck? I also have a full body spandex body suit that I have been using but I would like to switch to the UA.
I wear the underarmour cold gear and I have my neck seal over the cold gear and it covers the emblem just fine.
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jmgordon7 said:I looked on underarmour.com and couldn't find a full body suit, only shirts or legging. Where do I find the black spandex body suits I need? Thanks. Also, what are they called?
Some people use the cold gear shirt and pants from underarmour and they work great. The two piece is a better option if you need to make a pit stop also. I don't think they make a full body suit. Another option is to use a lycra dive skin.------------
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ItsThatGuy said:Split rivets are accurate - ACE has them - never found them at Home Depot or Lowes...
I am not talking about "split rivets", but run of the mill aluminum 1/8" pop rivets which you can get in white to better match the ABS. I use the ARROW e-z pull brand, they seem easier to pull and don't crack like other brands.
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Home Depot or Lowe's will have a rivet gun. They should be under $20 for a set with rivets included. I would recommend using 1/8" diameter rivets. the 3mm grip is a little too short for going through two pieces of ABS. I would get the next size up so you can back it with a flat washer.
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Aaahhh... but that means that it WAS there to begin with! (Just teasing... )
Honestly, my $.02, I can go either way. I like the look, but you see them in the films just as much with one as you do without. Mine has one, but I just liked the way the E-11 looked with it, plus I like the coiled wires. Just adds a little something extra.
BTW, anyone know what the yellow "spot" is on the bottom of the left chest strap? Dried glue?
Looks more like make-up smear, plus there were no shoulder straps on the sandtrooper suits
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I wanted to paint my helmet once I got it. I felt it gave it a more finished feel and my components would blend in. I didn't really care for the white helmets looking so cluttered with wires and fans.
When I got my helmet it was already assembled so I didn't want to take it apart to paint it. It's an RT-mod similar in size to AP. Kiyotei thread "Starting to build my AP armor" under the section "AP/TE2 Armor - Building and Discussion" has some good photos of the painting and helmet assembly. I used the krylon plastic flat black spray paint which works great and dries fast. I just made sure to mask the helmet real well before painting. The krylon bonds real well to the plastic and I have not had any issue with the paint pealing from the helmet where I have add attachments (fans / amp etc..). I wouldn't recommend masking or leaving spots for your accessories. I had to shift things around and change configuration around to best utilize the limited helmet space. You might find items fit better in different spots after a troop or two.
I used Velcro to attach everything so if I wanted or upgrade my bucket or change my system out it would be hassle free. Right now I have a radio shack voice amp powered by 1 9volt battery, a powered mic, and two 12volt fans. I used 2 12volt remote control batteries that are half the size of 1 9volt battery to power my fans to save space. I could remove everything if need be. Speaker wires are attached with a plug connector so that if needed they could be the only remaining item in the helmet. I see if I can upload some photos for reference.
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Tk9323 Requesting ANH Elite Status.[15][FX]
in Request Expert Infantry Status
Posted
Congratulations!! Soon all of GT's TK will be elite...well maybe