Root2812

I decided to add a few more pictures so you can see the size difference between the 102% and 107%. 102% is about 5mm bigger than 100% would have been, so hardly noticeable. Please forgive the pictures. Its hard to do with the helmet in pieces and with only one functioning arm.

Thanks to some help from @Sayless I can now post pictures. As mentioned before, I started with 102% on @TKModder421's modified Niko files. After trying a few test cuts I thought that would work but I learned my mistake was not taking into account the flange where the dome and the back meet. With my head pressed up against that flange my glasses still rub the lenses and would have put holes in them. I looked into options to help me put the helmet on better because I couldn't even get it on without my glasses off. I'm blind as a bat without them so I needed to change things. I reprinted at 107% which may have been a little more than I needed but at only about 15 millimeters taller, wider, and longer than 102% it was hardly noticeable visually. And now I have room for padding in the back and my glasses clear when I put the helmet on and wear it. Below are some pictures I've taken of my progress so far. My printer is 256 by 256 and I'm new to it so in my first attempt at printing the helmet I cut the back right down the middle. This made the most sense to me but I learned that ABS warps when there's not a lot of structure so after 4 attempts I gave up and changed my plan. The first photo shows where I cut it the next time and how I used a piece of one of the failed prints as a backer for strength (picture 2). This worked pretty well because the majority of the seam would be hidden by the ear. Because I'm using ABS and I'm bonding things together with acetone I think the joint would have been pretty strong without the backer but I used it for Peace of Mind. That worked out well other than being too small. I resized the files and used the measuring tool in my slicer to figure out which percentage would work well with what I had learned and the 107% looked like it would so I did a test cut. That fit pretty well so I went ahead and printed the bulk of the helmet. I haven't printed the chin yet but I think I'll be able to get this one on even with my glasses on. But if I run in to the same issue I had with the 102% I'll go back to my original idea of using magnets to hold the chin on. Putting the face and back together I can set this on now and not have my head touching the back and still have room for my glasses. I think I'm happy with it. You can see the 102% and the 107% side by side in picture 3. Because the back wouldn't fit still I knew I needed to cut it. I rotated it and decided that cutting off multiple small pieces to bond back on would be better than trying to line up two larger pieces. I also ended up needing to cut a little bit off of the face. Pictures 4&5 show the small pieces I clipped off. By cliping small pieces the larger pieces kept their shape and didn't warp so the small ones fit up perfectly. The acetone bonding should be simple and the majority of these seams will be hidden behind the ears too. The last picture shows some damage to the vent on one side of the face. I had a layer shift that was in the worst possible spot. I'm going to try and fix it with the file but I might end up reprinting this piece. I have to do some maintenance on my printer first. As mentioned above, I'm new to 3D printing, this printer is new and has 400 hours on it now, and is due for some maintenance. So far I'm happy with the progress. I was afraid the 107% helmet would look clownishly large but side by side to the smaller one and looking at myself in the mirror I think it will be just fine. Once its all bonded together I will post a picture for your opinions.

Thank you! I signed up for Flickr and I will see how it goes. Thanks! I am glad you found my build thread. I am excited to use the kit I ordered from you. It should arrive tomorrow!

Thanks James. I have done paint and body work on multiple classic cars so in theory these tiny parts should be less work but I will find out. Unfortunately I had shoulder surgery recently so I won't be doing any sanding for a few months. I ran into my first 3D printing issue yesterday on this set. I got a bad layer shift and now hear a squealing from my printer. I have 420 hours on this printer now and it had prompted me two weeks ago to clean and lubricate the Z axis screws which I did. I'm thinking the squealing is coming from the belts for the X&Y so I'm going to need to clean and lubricate those rods and adjust the belt tension. That's just my guess based on what I read last night and it makes sense so I'll have to watch some YouTube to see how to do it. 3D printing is fun but there's a lot to learn. That sounds great. I am looking forward to trying it! Thanks! Great advice. I just finished reprinting the main shell at the larger size and I can now get the helmet on with my glasses on and my glasses no longer rub on the lenses. This is a big win for me and now I probably won't need to do the magnets. At 107% the helmets are really not that much larger than it was at 102%. In total I think it's about 16 or 17 millimeters larger in each of the three directions. Side by side I can tell but putting it on my shoulders I can't tell. Which is good because I didn't want to look like I was in big head mode. The ABS has been a bit harder to print but I did choose it for those reasons you mentioned. I was watching a YouTube channel called M&M prop shop and that's what she used on all of her cosplay. I also like that it holds up to heat a little better because the last thing I would want to do is leave my armor in my car on a hot summer day and have it be deformed. That's the main reason I chose not to do PLA. I also read on a few posts that the files I have for the armor do have some issues and a lot of people are using parts from a short trooper armor. I'm probably going to look into getting that file set to. The one piece I'm not sure what I'm going to do with yet are the shoulder straps. I saw some files shared here where a guy printed them in white TPU. I have not done TPU before and don't have any so I'm not sure how that's going to turn out. Well we will see. I am going to take lots of photos and post as many as I can. I took one with the webcam on my computer but no matter what I did the forum kept saying the file was too large. I'll try taking them on my phone and posting them through the browser on my phone. Does white armor.net have its own app? That might make it easier... I'm not very tech savvy Thanks! I am excited too! Thanks. With all of my auto body projects I learned long ago that if you start with a good base it makes the whole project easier so I wanted to start with the best files I could get. Thanks. I looked though that page a little bit the other day. Very useful.

Hi all, I'm really excited to have joined this group. My name is Greg and I'm from Minnesota. I've always wanted a quality stormtrooper armor and after I bought my first 3D printer this spring I fell down the YouTube rabbit hole and ended up finding this forum. I barely know what I'm doing with my 3D printer and don't really know how to modify or create any file yet but I was able to get a copy of the modified Niko files from TKModder421 for the helmet and I got the armor files from Akira-Yuming. I haven't touched the armor files yet because I haven't quite figured out how I'm going to size them properly (Maybe armor Smith app) but I did decide to take a try at the helmet. I printed a few test rings and realized the 100% sized was too small. I have a large head and wear glasses. I ended up printing the helmet at 102% because I didn't want to go too large to where my helmet looked comically disproportionate to my body. I am not exactly a small person though (6’2” 240lbs). After printing at 102% I was able to wear the helmet but I could barely get it on and I couldn't wear it with my glasses so I was blind as a bat. I just printed a few more test rings and have decided to print again at 107%. That should give me just enough space to put the helmet on and wear my glasses with just a few millimeters to spare. I really hope that my helmet doesn't look too big but it is what it is because I couldn't wear the smaller ones. I'm going to start reprinting at that size tonight. Have any of you had to go that size or larger on your helmets? As mentioned, I got my very first 3D printer and I bought a Bambu Labs P2S and although the filament seems a bit more finicky I bought a bunch of white ABS after having watched some other armor builders on YouTube. I am finding that I wish I would have bought a printer with a larger print bed but the 256 by 256 is nice for most things I do. At 102% I only had to cut the dome and back into two parts but now I will have to cut the face as well. We will see how it goes. I'm sure I will ask lots of questions on this page about sizing and about all the not 3D printable parts. Speaking of which, I did purchase the audio/icomm system with hovi tips and amp/mic as well as some helmet fans from @ukswrath on Etsy. My original goal for this build was to build an awesome Halloween costume that will bring a smile to kids faces and also make a really cool decoration for my game room when I'm not wearing it. But after having watched videos and read things on this forum I think I am going to try for 501st approval when my armor is all done. Just the most basic level for now. I followed the local Garrison on Facebook and it looks like they have a lot of fun and it might give me more opportunities to bring smiles to people's faces which I enjoy. I am also an introvert so it would be good for me to branch out and interact with other people. Thanks in advance for all the help I'm going to receive along the way. People on this page seem like a pretty awesome group.

First of all, thank you for the files! I recently got my very first 3D printer which is a P2S. That is a 256mm x 256mm printer. I have a large head so I did some prints with cuts of the helmet and ended up printing the whole thing at 102%. I should have gone larger because my glasses still rub on the lenses if I can even get the helmet on with them on. I thought the few extra mms would be enough without making it look like a comically big head. I was wrong. But I digress… Even at 102 percent there were only two pieces that I couldn't fit on my print bed with creative orientation. The first was the Dome which I had to cut in half. I chose to cut it just above each ear across. The Dome has enough strength that it lined up really well afterwards but if I knew how to do it I would have put a small lip on the joint. I chose to use ABS so I am bonding with acetone and a lip would have allowed me to do a nice lapped joint. Being that I just got this printer I have absolutely 0 experience in making and modifying files so I couldn't figure out how to do that but if I knew how it would have made putting the Dome back together very easy. The second piece I needed to cut down was the back of the helmet. The first time I cut it was right in the middle on the back but the plastic is so thin and doesn't have a lot of ridges so it kept warping on me and I could never get it to line up again. It could just be the ABS but I'm not sure. A lap joint or some other way to align it and give it strength to hold shape would have been amazing. I gave up and reprinted the piece cutting about ¾ inch off the end behind the left ear piece. The upside to that was there's a little more structure there so I got less warping but I still got some in the big piece that I had to fight. I used a piece of scrap ABS from one of my failed prints to create the backing plate that I wanted and wished I knew how to model in. I bonded that behind the joint for strength and alignment. The upside to cutting it there was that most of the seam will be covered by the earpiece. The next problem I'm going to tackle doesn't have to do with the size of my printer but my inability to modify files is holding me back. Because my head is so large I can't put my helmet on with my glasses on. I am going to try and find a way to put the chin piece on with magnets. The place you put the alignment pins for the chin to face parts will work for that but it leaves the bottom of the teeth floating. Some sort of tabs for the bottom edge of the teeth to hold small magnets would be cool. I will end up glueing scrap ABS there to make a lip for my magnets. But that’s not printer related… It’s a big head and glasses problem. Fun build so far.