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Ebio Amisi

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Posts posted by Ebio Amisi

  1. Mandatory Information:

    Armour Maker - RWA
    Helmet Maker - RWA
    Blaster Maker - Shear Tech
    Link to EI Approval Thread - EI Approval Thread
    Link to WIP Thread for changes made for Centurion - WIP Thread "March to Centurion"

     

    Optional Information:

    Full Name - Ben Connolly
    Height - 183cm
    Weight - 84kg
    Boot Maker - Imperial Warfighters
    Canvas Belt Supplier - RWA
    Electronics - TroopaCoola TK Fan system for Helmet & Aker MR1505 Voice Amp
    Hand Guard Supplier - Imperial Warfighters
    Holster Maker - RWA
    Neck Seal - RWA

     

    Full Body Photos

     

    U4dvOj9.jpg?1
    rM8y6sU.jpg?1
    vZ8c0Kg.jpg?1
    DBFP29R.jpg?1
    oqQJKqs.jpg?1
    ntJIT4H.jpg?1

     

    Armor Details

     

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    parqOv6.jpg
    nPD4WVs.jpg
    r8beHZZ.jpg
    Ve4MJII.jpg
    eavJj7m.jpg
    HSwQrYC.jpg
    5DnqEKL.jpg?1(N.B. pencil lines on the button plates have now been rubbed off, see full body shots)
    5X2Xz8G.jpg

     

    Helmet Details

     

    G4fzYWX.jpg?1
    YWnjF8F.jpg?1
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    GxQDlpJ.jpg?1
    M2ididy.jpg?1
    kGNB2MA.jpg?1
    b8FOCH1.jpg?1
    H34TWuA.jpg?1

     

    Accessories

     

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    bGXvGHn.jpg
    tUIhoxK.jpg
    2aQZwI2.jpg
    WlEuwy9.jpg
    ibcUPDh.jpg
    SQ1E6aV.jpg
    aVCoWQH.jpg
    zcGJCzr.jpg

     

    Blaster

     

    4Nf61t6.jpg?1
    ndyXH9W.jpg?1
    kSwpnkK.jpg?1

     

     

  2. You may have to fix that gap in the sides of your Ab and kidney, at present yours is open on the bottom but closed on the top, tighter strapping may help
    L2 Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide
    L3 Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. 
     
    oqQJKqs.jpg?1ntJIT4H.jpg?1
     
    I would bring your forearms down a little, they are hitting/overlapping the biceps
    U4dvOj9.jpg?1
     
    Can see a strap on this side of your backplate, may want to adjust that, may get picked but up to DO's
    ntJIT4H.jpg?1
     
    Also shins not completely closed on the back, again entirely up to the DO's
    rM8y6sU.jpg?1

    Thanks for taking a look at this :)

    The ab/kidney gap has improved with the weight loss over the last couple of months. I believe I am within the gap permitted by the CRL now.

    The forearm bit I hadn’t noticed, so will take a look at this. It might be that it is just how I have put the armour on (shoving the glove up inside it!)

    The strapping is from my new thigh armour suspension and I’d had some other issues with it whilst suiting up so was going to fix/remove this anyway.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    • Like 1
  3. 40 minutes ago, TKSpartan said:

     

    Trimming the Shoulder bells return edge allow then to sit close to the Chest  armor and we always suggest this to fix the gap and is accurate too.

     

    Some reference images

     

    mmIe3KE.jpg   93Dycf2.jpg?1  

     

    SzbmDFL.jpg?1

     

     

    keep up the great work, almost there!  :jc_doublethumbup:

     

     

     

     

    Awesome - I will get them trimmed down them!

    Would you suggest i put a bit of fluffy velcro on the inside once done to stop it scratching?

  4. Okey Dokey, down to the last little bits.

     

    I'm trying to fix the gap between the shoulder bells and the chest armour/bands.

     

    I've checked to see if i should shorten the strapping from the bell to the band but it is already very short and when connected, touches together:

     

    0LtfjOF.jpg?1

     

    so i'm not sure that shortening it any further will will fix the issue.

     

    I've checked to see if the bell out edge needs to be flush/trimmed at all and it has already been done:

     

    mE5oOVR.jpg?1

     

    The only thing i can think to do at this stage is to trim the bottom edge of the bell but i'm not sure if this is a good idea/allowed?

     

    lJPCFWI.jpg

     

    Can anyone offer any advice?

     

     

    • Like 1
  5. Unless you remove the lenses first I would avoid superglue, Ben.  The reason being is that the fumes will adhere to the surface of them and permanently cloud them up.
    The cracks are so small I honestly think some white Sugru pushed into them with all the excess wiped off may do the trick.  If it doesn't look right to you, it can be removed with a dental pick before it dries.  

    The lens are fully removable - will give both a try.

    Sure it will be fine!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. f650e2c70c0a45e16f60194121dd4608.jpg

    Found another small crack whilst trying to fix the first one.

    This only appears if I push down the lower part of the eye socket.

    I’ve got Sugru / Milliput reinforceing the interior of the eye socket but this doesn’t appear to be helping.

    Do you think that this could have anything to do with the lens system I have in place?

    Also, would it be sensible to try and fix this with superglue and then sand it down?

    I’m a little worried as it is front facing and I don’t want to ruin all the work I’ve done getting the helmet to this point.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. bd168d15290a78b00c2a88730d56b3e2.jpg

    Helmet 99% finished - quite proud of how it has turned out.

    I’m fiddling around with padding etc but also trying to get the weight distribution sorted.

    The battery pack (now an 80g lipstick) is at the back of the helmet and, despite my chinstrap, it pulls the helmet back some.

    I was thinking of use lead weights at the front behind the Hovi tips to balance it better.

    Has anyone tried similar or got a better tip?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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