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Posts posted by Ebio Amisi
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You may have to fix that gap in the sides of your Ab and kidney, at present yours is open on the bottom but closed on the top, tighter strapping may help
L2 Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide
L3 Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor.
I would bring your forearms down a little, they are hitting/overlapping the biceps
Can see a strap on this side of your backplate, may want to adjust that, may get picked but up to DO's
Also shins not completely closed on the back, again entirely up to the DO's
Thanks for taking a look at this
The ab/kidney gap has improved with the weight loss over the last couple of months. I believe I am within the gap permitted by the CRL now.
The forearm bit I hadn’t noticed, so will take a look at this. It might be that it is just how I have put the armour on (shoving the glove up inside it!)
The strapping is from my new thigh armour suspension and I’d had some other issues with it whilst suiting up so was going to fix/remove this anyway.
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Okey Dokey...
I think I've done it!
Here is my latest suit up:
Do you think I should submit for Centurion now?
FYI - I am in the process of getting new gloves but i understnad that the ones i have at the moment will pass. Also I will make sure to take all the additional pictures for submission before putting forward in the main application
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40 minutes ago, TKSpartan said:
Awesome - I will get them trimmed down them!
Would you suggest i put a bit of fluffy velcro on the inside once done to stop it scratching? -
Okey Dokey, down to the last little bits.
I'm trying to fix the gap between the shoulder bells and the chest armour/bands.
I've checked to see if i should shorten the strapping from the bell to the band but it is already very short and when connected, touches together:
so i'm not sure that shortening it any further will will fix the issue.
I've checked to see if the bell out edge needs to be flush/trimmed at all and it has already been done:
The only thing i can think to do at this stage is to trim the bottom edge of the bell but i'm not sure if this is a good idea/allowed?
Can anyone offer any advice?
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Unless you remove the lenses first I would avoid superglue, Ben. The reason being is that the fumes will adhere to the surface of them and permanently cloud them up.
The cracks are so small I honestly think some white Sugru pushed into them with all the excess wiped off may do the trick. If it doesn't look right to you, it can be removed with a dental pick before it dries.
The lens are fully removable - will give both a try.
Sure it will be fine!
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Found another small crack whilst trying to fix the first one.
This only appears if I push down the lower part of the eye socket.
I’ve got Sugru / Milliput reinforceing the interior of the eye socket but this doesn’t appear to be helping.
Do you think that this could have anything to do with the lens system I have in place?
Also, would it be sensible to try and fix this with superglue and then sand it down?
I’m a little worried as it is front facing and I don’t want to ruin all the work I’ve done getting the helmet to this point.
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E-11 holster for the carry case finished!
Just waiting on the glue to dry
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His little crack has appeared - I’ve put superglue behind it to strength it and stop it from growing but I’m not sure how to deal with the paint that has gotten into the crack.
Would the paint I used (humbrol) for the ear screws be ok?
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Helmet 99% finished - quite proud of how it has turned out.
I’m fiddling around with padding etc but also trying to get the weight distribution sorted.
The battery pack (now an 80g lipstick) is at the back of the helmet and, despite my chinstrap, it pulls the helmet back some.
I was thinking of use lead weights at the front behind the Hovi tips to balance it better.
Has anyone tried similar or got a better tip?
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Thanks for the feedback, Thought that might be the case - I will leave it as it is!
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Is it acceptable to do the scope rub thing on the counter logo here?
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Bit of bleeding from the paint - time for a clean up!
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Interior painted!
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Much better!
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E11 finished - part 2
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E11 finished! (Part 1)
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Helmet masked up ready to spray now that the lens system checks out!
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Yay the lens system works!
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Scope is finished! I’ll wait until the whole blaster is finished before I weather any of it
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Decals for scope printed and stuck onto dome things ready to mount
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Installation of the cut down risers - if this works, it means I will be able to keep the lens very close to the eye socket and will be able to switch them out as and when they get too scratched.
It also cleans up the inside of the helmet as I didn’t really like the big internal visor that the helmet came with
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Cutting down computer motherboard risers to use a screw anchors for the helmet lens
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New 2500mAh power bank from B&M
Much light and smaller - thanks to whoever gave me the tip on that earlier!
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TK19984 Requesting ANH Stunt Centurion Status (TK) (511)
in Request Centurion Status
Posted · Edited by gmrhodes13
DO's add application numbers once approved
Mandatory Information:
Armour Maker - RWA
Helmet Maker - RWA
Blaster Maker - Shear Tech
Link to EI Approval Thread - EI Approval Thread
Link to WIP Thread for changes made for Centurion - WIP Thread "March to Centurion"
Optional Information:
Full Name - Ben Connolly
Height - 183cm
Weight - 84kg
Boot Maker - Imperial Warfighters
Canvas Belt Supplier - RWA
Electronics - TroopaCoola TK Fan system for Helmet & Aker MR1505 Voice Amp
Hand Guard Supplier - Imperial Warfighters
Holster Maker - RWA
Neck Seal - RWA
Full Body Photos
Armor Details
(N.B. pencil lines on the button plates have now been rubbed off, see full body shots)
Helmet Details
Accessories
Blaster