Jump to content

Joey 1-Time

Member
  • Posts

    11
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Joey 1-Time

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    PA

Standard Info

  • Name
    Joey

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. And then, it was painting time. I started with the bolt. I taped off the general shape, using the edges that were already molded on the gun as a guide. Then, I painted the area using the gun metal acrylic paint (with help from the Mrs. lol). I rounded out the bottom left corner to match how it should look. It came out pretty well (I forgot to take an after picture, so this one was done post weathering) Next comes the weathering. I used a dry brush method, which basically consists of dipping the brush in paint, then getting almost all of the paint off the brush, then very lightly brushing the edges and corners of the gun to get a natural looking weathered effect. There are guides online to look up how to do this properly, which is what I did. I started using the metallic silver paint to do everything but the scope, t-tracks, and grip. The t-tracks and grip are not supposed to be metal, so they would have no metal weathering. The scope is covered below. I did the same method for the scope, but instead I used metallic copper, since the original guns scopes were made of brass. I went more subtle on the scope, as I felt like i went a little overboard on the silver. It was looking so good I got carried away a bit. If I had to do it again I may have done a little less, but I still like how it came out. The only thing left to do was to coat it with the matte clear to protect the paint. And that's it, finally done! I'm very happy with how everything turned out. I know I could have done more to be more accurate, but I didn't want this build to take too much time. I plan on doing another, more accurate build in the future, but I'm very satisfied with this gun until then. From afar, it looks great. If anyone has any questions on how I did anything, just ask.
  2. On to the painting. I used a primer first, making sure to get in all the small crevices and small bits. I did a couple coats to ensure it was completely primed. Next, came the black. I used a matte black spray for the entire thing. The grip should have been gloss, but it's not going to be seen much and I was being cheap lol. It's finally starting to look like the real deal.
  3. Finally, it was time to put the gun back together. I screwed back in all the screws that I look out previously. I then flattened out the top T-track to match the others, then I trimmed down the trigger guard This next part was definitely the most time consuming part of the whole project. I first had to sand down the entire gun (for better paint adhesion), but specifically the line where the two halves of the gun meet. There is a slight bump there that I wanted to get rid of. I then used bondo putty along the entire gun to cover up the seal of the two halves. This was especially necessary under the rail, scope, along the middle t-track, and the trigger guard; which is due to small gaps that were created during trimming. Also, I filled in all the screw holes. It took several coats and smoothing out with sand paper before I got it just right With E6000 I glued on the two parts I 3D printed: The power cylinders and the D-ring
  4. Soooooo... I put the project on hold for a while, but I'm working on it again and not stopping until it's done this time! Next thing I did was cut out the bolt/spring slot (not sure what it's called exactly). I started off drawing a template with pencil after looking at many reference photos. I had to redraw it a couple times, but it looked good enough in the end. Next, I used my trusty Dremel to cut out the shape by using the saw bit and the cylinder bit. I didn't end up putting in a spring in the receiver, as to me it was too much work for not a huge effect. I instead out the rest of the pvc pipe that I used on the barrel and glued it the same way. I didnt like how the D-ring mold looked at the end of the gun, so I 3d printed a better one. I dremel'd off the one that was there originally
  5. Next up is the inner barrel. I bought some 3/4' PVC pipe to use for the barrel. I measured how long it needed to be and cut to size, and then drilled holes in it to fit. I ended up spray painting the barrel and inside as a test to see how the paint would look. I used matte black and I'm pretty happy with the result. Once I had the pipe lined up, i used a generous amount of E-6000, which held very well.
  6. Next up, I cut out the bottom of the scope for more accuracy. This part is what I would consider the most necessary modification: cutting down the T-tracks. I'm very happy with the end result; makes it look a lot less cartoon-ish. I still need to do some sanding and evening out, but I'll get around to it. I am waiting until I put both sides back together before I do the top track, just to make it easier to line up perfectly.
  7. I might have to try that. Did you use any sealant or anything? Thank you, I'm happy with it so far
  8. I started to work on the rail, trying the remove the plastic underneath so the rail would sit above the barrel. I found it really tough, and I was struggling. I thought that if I opened the gun, it would be easier to get to. I read a tip on another thread about freezing it in order to help open it (dont remember who it was). So, I put the gun in the freezer for about 24 hours. When I took it out, I got a butter knife and stuck in in the seal and started to pry it open. The freezing weakened the bond of the glue, which allowed it to open easier. I still thought i was going to crack it a few times, but I managed to get it open undamaged. With the rail more exposed, I was now able to finish it up. The saw bit really came in handy for this.
  9. First, i took some 200 grit sandpaper and sanded off the text that was on the side of the gun. Then, I started with the holes on the barrel. The dremel I bought came with a bunch of bits, and one of them fit the size of the premade holes perfectly. So I just drilled straight into the barrel with it and it worked perfectly. I cut out all of the premade indents. I plan on putting an inner barrel in there eventually, but more on that later. Next, I cut out the sights. I used a smaller bit and carefully cut out the sights for a more accurate look. I'm starting to like how these small modifications are going to make a big difference.
  10. Whats up everyone! Long time, first time. This is my build thread for modifying the Rubies E11 toy. This build is fairly dremel intensive, and I used a bit of 3D printing. I know its not going to be a super accurate screen build, due to the nature of the base toy. But I'm hoping to make something that looks really good while trooping. I just want to give a quick shout out to all the people on this forum for all the amazing information and advice on how to go about this process. I was a complete noob when I started (and still am by most accounts), but gathered enough tips to allow me to attempt this. If anyone has any questions, I would be happy to share my limited experience. Materials: Rubies E-11 Blaster PVC pipe (3/4') Flat Gray Primer Spray Paint Matte Black Spray Paint Matte Clear Spray Paint Gun Metal Acrylic Paint Metallic Silver "Testors" Paint Metallic Copper "Testors" Paint Tools: Dremel Sandpaper Xacto knife Painters Tape Paint Brush I'm not sure about painting this though. I know I'm getting a bit ahead of myself, but I want to get the materials early so they have time to ship. I know it has to be painted black, but what finish should I use? Matte? Also, does anyone have any recommendations for a sealant, since I don't want the paint to run? Any advice or links would be greatly appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...