DarthOnarged

I started a new hobby outside of my model making, it still involves my Star Wars models, but I photoshop them into various scenarios, sort of a “What If?” similar to the Marvel series. Check out @starwars_multiverse on Instagram for more of my edits! I may work on creating some scenes with my stormtrooper armor on, but the set up, staging, and lighting is pretty complicated doing it on my own.

I modeled and 3D printed a lightsaber based on Narsil from Lord of the Rings. The design is based on Jake Bartok’s (IG @jakebartok) artwork, and Tehran Props (IG @tethan_props_) adaptation of it, but I wanted one to use the Savi lightsaber chassis from Disney’s Galaxy’s Edge, so I designed one for myself. All the original features of the Savi lightsaber remain unchanged including interchangeable kyber crystals, sounds, and galaxy’s edge blades. Hope you enjoy it!

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I found this in my search before posting and I’m curious to how your paint job has held up over years. I’m also planning on doing a full armor paint job using acrylic paint which is more elastic than enamels.

Thanks! It’s 1/72 scale from the full size falcon so about 20” long.

Thanks everyone! Took me about 9 months with a couple hours per day. I built a falcon when I was in middle school with the older inaccurate AMT kit, but when the perfect grade came out a few years ago, I just had to pick up the hobby again after 20 or so years hiatus. I consider it my holy grail lol.

Got lucky and found that rustoleum white was a near match to my ATA ABS. I primed/painted/clear coated (acrylic) the right half and kept the left half bare. Then after wet sanding and polishing (lower pic) to remove the orange peel, it looks pretty much identical to the bare ABS! Sorry the sand job looks sloppy, just a quick test run.

I’m looking to spray paint a part white (assuming I have a good color match to the ABS) to match the finish/appearance of my bare ABS armor. Have any of you successfully done this and do you have any tips? Should I finish in gloss or satin? Acrylic or enamel? I know orange peel is always gonna be a challenge.

Just like EVERY one of my projects, I start off thinking small, but as I work on it, the scope grows... I wasn’t originally planning on it but I decided I wanted to hollow out the folding stock and semi-accurize it. Also added the cap screws to the muzzle. Also drilled out the holes at the ends of the T tracks. Will add putty to make the legs of the T’s taller going into the holes.

I placed my belt according to the first image of the Hero CRL, but looking at some reference shots from ANH, looks like the heroes have their belt higher. Should this be corrected on the CRL?

I’m 6-2 and apparently long legged. Is this knee gap acceptable? ATA kit.

Thanks! Bandai 1/72 Perfect Grade

Wanted to share with you all my Millennium Falcon model (don’t tell Vader). Finished it a couple years ago and I maybe obsessed a little too much on getting every detail from the original 5ft ANH filming model. If my house was on fire (knock on wood) this would probably be the first thing I try and rescue lol.

De-bananafied the t-tracks and drilled the barrel holes

Next I started working on the front sight by drilling through and dremeling to shape

Welcome to my build blog of my not so accurate by kinda accurate good ol’ college try Rubies E-11 conversion build. I’m a newbie in this world, but I do have experience in plastic model building, so I guess maybe those skills would relate to this. I’ve built my first ATA and still waiting for my TM hero helmet kit, so I’m working on this in the mean time. Any tips would be greatly appreciated! Started off with dremeling off the rail and scope After removing the scope, I putty’d the seams and gaps, drilled open the ends, and screwed on three bolts I removed from the gun’s body that you don’t need because everything is already glued together to begin with.

My left ATA shin opening seems to be significantly smaller than my right shin opening making it hard to fit over my boot. My right shin opens about 4” right-to-left and my left shin opens about 3” right-to-left. Both open about 4.5” front-to-back. Any ideas on how to fix this? Was thinking hot bath but still thinking about fixturing or maybe just bending by hand.

The reason why I decided not to go with the ATA helmet is because my personal preference is without the bumps and warts. I was however eyeing up your TM helmet for sale. Couldn’t tell from the pictures, but do TMs have the imperfections or are they idealized?

Any doctors in the house that can describe to me the adverse health effects of ABS dust inhalation?

I’m currently in my first build, and looking through this thread has made me think...maybe I should’ve used more blue painters tape lol

Thanks you all for the feedback and suggestions!

Quick question, is there any protocol other than the rules listed at the top of the imperial commissary personal items board? Doesn’t seem like I can reply to anything. I assumed you just PM the seller which I did. Also assume that if someone has a long history on these forums they’re most likely trustworthy.

It looks like the forearm rolled a little bit out of the right orientation. Below are pictures of the arms more properly aligned. Also, I think the original left forearm was more curvy than the right. Do you think this looks acceptable?

Hey everyone! My name’s Fred and this is my first post! I‘m currently in the process of building my ATA armor, and it’s been awesome! I’m still working on getting a helmet. I’ve emailed several makers, RT-Mod, AM, AP, and T/MC, and only got one reply and he’s since gone ghost. I’ll just assume they’re all busy. Anyways, I look forward to having fun with this armor! I plan to join 501st eventually, but what I’m excited about the most is putting it up on a mannequin and occasionally putting the armor on and scaring my wife lol.