Slayer6769
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Posts posted by Slayer6769
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I don't Facebook either, so I understand where your coming from. <br><br>
Walt is a stand up guy and very helpful. He has helped me and I've bought some parts from him. I pm'd Walt right here on the forum. He is a busy guy and may not be able to get a immediate response, but he will get back with you in a reasonable amount of time.<br>
Just pm him here and give him your shipping info and he will give you a quote for your armor kit plus shipping. He will also give you his PayPal account and you just send the payment. In a few weeks, depending on how backed up he is, you will receive on your doorstep and WTF armor kit.
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I wish I would have read this thread sooner. Do you still need screws? If so, I can hook you up. If your wanting the correct brass screws and nuts or just steel screws and nuts, pm me and I will give you what you need. While the are painted, I think the unpainted brass screws and nuts on the inside of the helmet looks really nice personally. <br><br>
I've gotten a lot here from everyone, this is my small way of trying to give back.
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As far as the inside strips goes, you do not need to make them perfect. They are only for strength and do not need to be perfect. They are not seen. I have some butt joints that I used two or three smaller pieces, instead of using one ling strip. That way I could use up my small scrap pieces and save the bigger pieces in case I needed them.
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I suggest you spend the little extra and get the correct boots from TK boots or Imperial Boots. Plus the boots from either of them are much better quality and made out of real leather.<br>
If you want to pm me, I can hook you up with a coupon for TK boots.
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Apparently the dude you were considering buying this kit from posted it for sale in the personal items for sale thread and I commented about his pic being identical to the one you posted here. I'm assuming he read what was said here and deleted his sale. Dude will probably go to eBay with his kit now. Lol!
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What kind of armor is this? I'm short myself and I've had to makes some mods on my armor.
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I agree with Joseph, I would definitely use flat washers under the nuts. <br>
Another suggestion to prevent you from loosing your nuts in the future is to use blue Loctite on the nuts. More specifically I would use the blue Loctite stick, instead of the liquid. The stick is much less messy and it stays where you put it. And if you ever need to remove the nut, the blue Loctite is easily taken apart. Do not use any other color of Loctite. The red specifically requires high heat to break the bond and the other colors are for sealing and gasket making.
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I think I would try trimming some of the return edge in the back off first. That may be all you need to do to make it more comfortable. You can always trim further if trimming the return edge isn't enough.
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Anovos is suffering from the same thing most of these retailers are suffering from. They are just overwhelmed with orders and can't keep up with demand unfortunately. Plus, from my understanding, their armor is pulled and assembled in China. That will always cause delays. <br>
One important lesson I've learned with this whole experience is that patience is a virtue in cosplay.
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I do the same thing, it's just about sitting there and doing it.
That's kinda what I do and after I've loosened it up a bit, I will pick it off.
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Use a angle grinder, that will take it off. <br>
Just kidding lol, DO NOT USE A ANGLE GRINDER!
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I have a Hyperfirm, but after I get caught up on my current projects, I wasn't to get a Blastermaster E11 kit. I've been in contact with Ray and your correct, he is great guy! If you haven't already, check out his YouTube videos.Great idea Feliz!<br><br>
I did end up finding another E-11. I ended up buying a BlasterMaster 3D printed one. It will be tedious smoothing out the print lines, but everything was perfect and it should assemble well. I ended up getting the electronics kit for light and sound too. I may end up getting a Hyperfirm as well for trooping, not sure how the BlasterMaster one will hold up if I dropped it.<br>
I ended up getting a DL-44 kit from BlasterMaster as well and I love it! Ray was a great guy to work with both times and I will likely purchase my F-11 for my FOST from him as well.
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Looks good!<br>
You might ask Walt or some of the other makers for some tips to help you.
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I'd say a LOT of photos and a LOT more information is in order here. Not saying anything bad about you or your possible armor, but there are a LOT of questionable makers out there and often times they are recaster or not accurate armor. You will need to prove both are not the case here before I would even consider asking about doing a run or anything. <br>
This is why they have a list of vetted makers in the getting started section. <br>
I would suggest doing more ground work before going any further. Your results will prove more fruitful.
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If you haven't already you may want to go over to the RPF forum and post this same question. There's probably many more people their that do this sort of thing than here I would imagine.<br>
I would think that every maker has their helmets a little different than the next, unless it were a recaster. DO NOT BE A RECASTER!
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I would be excited to see you do this!Ron, that might happen in the near future. It would give me chance to put all those expensive ceramic and sculpture classes that I took in college to good use.
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Welcome! If I had your talent, I'd make myself some molds and vac form my own abs armor.
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Your going to need replacement shins and thighs I think. That look like way to wide of a gap to try and shim or hide with cover strips.
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Are you sanding by hand or are you using some sort of power sander?
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Not to hijack your thread, but where in the heck does a person find 38.1mm aluminum pipe?? I've never seen it for sale anywhere before.
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I assume somebody makes a good set of pliers. I just can't see the guys at the boat place setting snaps with a setter and anvil. <br>
I'm not really concerned with cost as long as it's a quality tool.
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I need a set of snap setting pliers, but I don't want to buy a pair that's junk. I have had really good luck setting my snaps with the setter and anvil, but I am going to need a pair of pliers of some sort to do the job. This isn't armor related. I need to replace some snaps on my boat cover and it will be inconvenient to use a setter and anvil.
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As a suggestion if you are going the rubber glove route, wear some cloth under gloves inside. I get chemical gloves one size too big and wear brown jersey gloves inside. Then when I take them off, I squirt a little glove powder inside my chemical gloves for next use.
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I would recommend getting one from Darmen here on the boards. Very well made, comfortable and ships fast.
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Holster Dimensions/Stencil?
in Boots, Soft Parts, and other Accessories
Posted
I have one of Darman's 8oz holsters and it is a very nice quality holster. Nice thick heavy leather. But I wanted to try and make my own on the cheap, just to see how well or not it would turn out.
I had access to some free leather, but it was rather on the thin side. I think it would be considered upholstery leather or something. I made the holster according to the picture posted above. But what I did to make it usable was I got a sheet of black plastic. Mine was free but I know it's available at craft stores and some office supply stores. I'm not certain if the thickness, but it's about the thickness of poster board or so. It's nice and stiff, but flexible. I glued (E6000) the plastic sheet to the leather. Then sewed the holster together, with the plastic sheeting as a internal liner inside the holster. It actually turned out very well. It's lightweight and stiff. I think over the long haul, it will hold up better than the all leather holster. I don't think the plastic will break down and loose it's stiffness as leather will with use.