Nacho
-
Posts
98 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Articles
Media Demo
Posts posted by Nacho
-
-
This page is hugely helpful to those wishing to mod these:
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/dsy-e-11
Don't forget to thank the maker!
Great help!! I plan on tracking this blaster down and doing the mods. Good for trooping
-
On 6/26/2015 at 9:46 PM, TK69581 said:
I ended up using 5v blower fans from Amazon;
http://www.amazon.co...d=I51L76H4XGEYH
And these switches
http://www.amazon.co...=I3DFK11UDGL7SX
For power I used one of those battery charger sticks similar to this;
http://www.amazon.co...3NTA699NMN78ZN4
I did have a couple AAA batteries set up instead but had one BLOW UP in my helmet while I was wearing it. Luckily no damage to me or the helmet but scared the you know what out of me when it went!
Cheap and easy.
I have those exact same fans in my amazon cart. Now for the battery, how are you getting power to the switch? USB to dc lead? One fan to one battery since the ouput on the battery is 5v?
-
Joseph, SUGRU is amazing! I used it for my frown mesh and it worked great. I actually left the single lens like it was since I ran out. I bought it from Amazon in a 3 pack for like $13.
Thanks again for the tip!
I used it for my lenses. Great stuff. Try Target. They have the multi colored, black and white in stock.
-
Left side armor closure. the cross brace was made in order to keep the ends butt jointed, minimal gap. With the canvas belt, it will hold perfectly. The outward facing side of the plastic was painted flat black.
Creating the lenses, traced the basic shape onto an index card.
After measuring about a centimeter bigger than my traced opening, I used Sugru to attach them. This stuff is great, VERY forgiving if you mess up. Leaves a greasy residue on the hands but if you mold it into elongated shapes on the sides and bottom of the opening, bend them back a bit to make a sort of wave type shape facing away from the lens, you'll be able to press the lens onto it without it mushing into the opening and being visible from the outside.....trust me...it took me two attempts and various curse words to figure this out. Thankfully you can take a microfiber cloth and wipe it right off the lenses. Set time is 24 hours.
Gap on top and partially on bottom for ventilation.
Handpainted everything on the helmet. Tube stripe masking was a failure.
The ones on the right side came out a bit better then the left ones.
I had a bit of run off since the tape failed me. I used light coats (pretty much transparent) with about an hour between them. Had some come off and it was actually worse than the pic at first. This was after I freehanded them to clean them up and connect the tops and bottoms.
SOOOOOO....I decided to take them off.
After much research on something safe to use on ABS to dissolve or take off paint. I ended up using Goo Gone and a Chopstick....yep.....using it to scrape off the paint. left NO scratches. When finished, hit it with a bit of goo gone to get rid of a bit of the blue tint and buff and wax with whatever you use. Novus or whatever.
I reached out to a local decal maker I used in the past that has done some great work. So I am having him create the tube stripes to the correct hand drawn specifications.
-
And it's down.
Just when I was going to order the gloves and hand guards. -
Holster and Neckseal from Darman. Arrived. This is some quality work, shout out to him and his wife.
Worked on the helmet. Followed a couple guides on here. VERY helpful
The dreaded ears....
only thing left is Paint, lens, and interior (I ended up fixing the minor gap between the cheek and ear. Little bit of heat and TLC, got it closed up.)
Didn't realize this cap rivet would be such a pain to put on, but i got it
Some minor sanding on the edge of the thigh belt and painting the rivet.
-
Have been wondering how people have put their lenses in. Definetly going to look into some of this stuff.
-
Thats good for the build. I have the cheapest one from ACE and it has i believe 3 sizes.
The ammo pack is actually a 7mm cap rivet or split rivet.
-
Those looking for a economical option PLUS better frequency security. You have this i found on amazon http://www.amazon.com/BaoFeng-UV5R-Dual-Band-Two-Way-Radio/dp/B007H4VT7A/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1434999146&sr=1-6&keywords=walkie+talkie
They are originally 130, on sale now for under 30 USD. Also has a microphone input and speaker output, incase they arn't loud enough.
I THINK, if someone has come up with a box (either inline or for the speaker output) that inserts the static breaks, it would be a perfect alternative. I'm sure someone can program an Audrino board to do this funcion.
-
1
-
-
My only thought is that if you make a button work, it will be a LIVE button. My point is, if you are out trooping and accidentally bump the music button, then you'd better be ready for a dance party regardless of where you are at.
Whats wrong with a trooper dance party? haha. Like previously mentioned too, if you're shorter, your chestplate comes down and could bump the button. true. maybe a two button system. you have to hold one other button (possibly the lone blue one) to initiate another press, like to unlock the circuit. or something.
Occasionally I go Jawa and have sounds on a loop through my Aker. They go off probably every two or three minutes but after a few hours my husband is ready to kill me
UTINI !!! haha
-
Might be a dead thread but mount the transmitting walkie to the back plate and the receiving to the front. Might cut back in feedback. Anyone have any updates to this? I might just go this route. Keep it all simple. Or the android app route if it works out well.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
-
This is a very promising project. Maybe use it on an older phone and hook up a headset...velcro the phone to your chest plate.
Also, if you need anyone to design artwork for your logo or interface, hit me up. This is a great project
-
Build still going strong, slows down through the week with the bulk getting done on weekend.
Thermal Detonator construction
Right on the money. 7.5 inches
Started installing snaps
Some light sanding required still to get rid of flash
-
Can I ask you where you found #8 for £31.99 please?
I was looking at this thread since i have pretty much given up on tkboots and imperial boots due to back orders. I'll just go the DIY route. I found the roamers (#8) on the US amazon page for $63 USD. about $13 USD more than the 31 gbp . not bad. still cheaper than the ready made boots. Here is the link
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PI2T0VK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A68Z1W130KDPY
-
Awesome. Greatly appreciated.They can be functionnal, they can be just for the show. Only the exterior aspect of the armor is covered by the CRL, what you decide to do inside is all up to you.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
-
Here's my quick question. Are do the 6 split/cap rivets on the side have to be funtional? Like threaded into the snap rivet or are they just for show?
-
I went with 5/8 on both biceps and forearms.
-
Congrats on approval. I've been using your thread as my bible for my build. Great information on here.
-
Alright. Finished trimming and sanding the arm pieces. Had to take apart the left bicep since it was tight (I kinda trimmed a bit too much for the butt joint. NO Problem since I was able to space them out enough and re glue them. E6000 is pretty forgiving. The right bicep fit great, first time go on that one.
Glueing the forearms.
Trimmed the rest of the return edge on the wrists and better defined the return edge on shoulder bells.
Then I moved into the body pieces.
I kept the return edges on the front plate.
Rear plate I still need to get the hobby iron to make the return edges around the arms.
Ab plate.
QUESTION: Do Trim the bottom part ( near legs/crotch) in towards the defined line or is that a return edge? ( I think i might have answered my own questions by looking at a couple Centurion submissions, but just want to make sure)
Same question for the butt plate, i know the top that connects to the kidney plate has a return angle, but what about the bottom parts.
And heres the kidney plate.
I need to roll the return edge on the ends obviously. As well as cut the notch on the sides that are required.
How am I doing so far?
-
An exciting day indeed. Best of luck to you. I am just starting my build as well.
-
Alright. Build day 2. Arms are done cutting. Now only gluing left....which made me realize that i should have bought more clamps and magnet.
Pieces waiting for glue.
Cutting forearm pieces. Measure 18 times, cut once.
And here are the Shoulder Bells....a bit hard to tell where the mold needed to be cut.
Before final sanding. Should I bring the sides back to the crease about 1 cm in?
Here are the bottoms
-
If you are going for Centurion, there needs to be NO return edge on the forearms at the wrist.
ForearmsFor 501st approval:
- Forearms are fully closed.
For level two certification (if applicable): For level three certification (if applicable):- No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.
- Forearms must be constructed using the butt joint and cover strip method. Overlap construction is not allowed.
Hope this helps!
I went back and looked at the applications. Remembered it was an actual criteria. They are gone now . Thanks!
-
That return edge point is for the biceps alone!!! Don;t apply that to your other parts
I thought the same went for the lower forearm at the wrist. I have an edge there with a good fit.
-
No need for concern with regards to your return edge, the screen used suits didn't have them, so you will be good either way.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
From the countless hours of FISD research I conducted, I figured so. Thanks!!!
New Disney electronic E-11 blaster - way better than Hasbro
in ANH BlasTech E11
Posted
So the folding stock on the Disney E11 is non functioning. The star wars Rebels blaster (highly inaccurate) is a longer blaster, but the folding stock on it seems more true to size (PLUS IT FOLDS). Can be easily modified to look the part IMO. I have to see it in person.