daryldoak

Thanks guys! I was about to ask the same glue question since glueing will begin in my not too distant future.

David, Thanks! I do plan on glueing, filling, and sanding the shoulder seam, as well as the torso side seams, then painting the kit. Good luck on your build!

Chest and back fine-trimming and sanding. Chest before: Chest after. I was really unsure about the neckline and sides of the chest. There were no guidelines. Hopefully somebody can let me know how it looks, and what the tips should look like. Neckline outside. It’s really hard to tell, but I left just a bit of return edge: Neckline inside: Chest side: Back before: Back after: The back, at the shoulder tabs, is by far the thinnest part of this armor kit. It’s unfortunate since that area is going to carry a lot of stress when the under chest is attached. I do have Ukswrath’s shoulder brackets, so hopefully that is going to help. So I left extra at the shoulder tabs, just in case. You can just barely see the guide lines in this photo:

Pouch cover before: Pouch cover after: Knee before: Knee after: Hand plate before: Hand plate after:

Trimming/sanding, not a lot of difference visible in the pictures, but making progress. Butt before: Butt after: Under chest before: Under chest after:

A little more progress on fine-trimming and sanding. Cod before: Cod after: Torso before: Torso after: Spine plate before: Spine plate after:

Didn’t make much progress this weekend. Worked on the shoulder bells, which had barely any (one, none at all) guidelines on the lower edge. So I got one properly trimmed and sanded, then used it to trim the one without the guide lines.

Anyone else’s kit have this on the right outer bicep? It will be covered by the overlap, but just curious.

So next I got started on some fine-trimming/sanding, and the place I decided to start was with the biceps. I started here because they are pieces that I became worried about while trimming. Both ends of the larger, wrap-around bicep piece are extremely thin, and one of those ends becomes an important front-facing seam. There was a lot of mold curve-back on the ends, so you are required to trim that off so the pieces fit together properly (sorry, no picture). Trimming off the curve-back limits the options you have for how this seam fits together, and also makes the clip slot smaller, which is a problem since you have to leave enough space for the clip to fit in the slot. Be careful here! Also, when you trim off the curve-back the pieces loses length (top to bottom), which leave the smaller bicep piece a bit shorter than the bigger bicep piece, so I had to trim the larger piece a bit to make the lengths the same (no picture). Then I trimmed the rest of the bicep pieces closer to the guide lines (where they existed), and used my best judgement where there weren’t guide lines. Then I peeled off the protective plastic and rough sanded with some 80 grit sandpaper. I kept a bit of return edge on the top and bottom of the biceps. Top: Bottom: Here is the front facing seam. It’s really hard to tell in the picture but I think it turned out pretty good. TL;DR I trimmed and sanded the biceps.

Thanks! I think my progress will slow from here as I move to the sanding, filling assembly stages.

More cutting… Spine plate before: Spine plate after: Cod and butt before: Cod and butt after: Torso front/back before: Torso front/back after. I split the back in order to make the sides seamless. And I haven’t cut out the middle tabs in case I need to widen or shrink the torso: Torso pre assembled: Inner chest before: Inner chest after: Chest before: Chest after: Back before: Back after: Shoulders and pouch cover before: Shoulders were really thick so it was a soft pull with really no guide lines on the lower edges (both at the center of the picture), I ended up using the one with the barely visible guideline as a pattern for the lower edge where there was no visible line. But I cut these pretty far off of the guide lines to be safe. Shoulders and pouch cover after: And rough cut is done. My hand hurts.

Yes, this kit will be approvable, but will required many modifications, especially removing seams and fixing the yoke design problem. Good luck on your build.

More trimming. My cutting confidence is back, so I was on a roll. Hand plates before: Hand plates after: Test assembled arms: Onto the legs. Calves before (partially cut before picture) Calves after: Shins before: Shins after: Thigh backs before: Thigh backs after: Thigh fronts before: Thigh fronts after: Knee plates before: Knee plates after: Spats before: Spats after: Test assembled legs:

This just received from Denuo Novo. Time to move my TFA build log that I just created to the TLJ section. LOL Hi Daryl, The helmet will be The Last Jedi. Thanks and MTFBWY! Denuo Novo Customer Service

It’s been 4 years since I’ve cut any plastic, and I’m terrified of cutting a kit I’m not very familiar with. I thought about just leaving it in the box for awhile until someone else creates a build post for me to follow, but then the Denuo Novo instructions were released today, so I figured why not just jump in. So here goes, its arm day! Rough cutout. Biceps inner before: Bicep inner after: Bicep outer before: Bicep outer after: Forearm outer before: Forearm outer after: Forearm inner before: Forearm inner after: I plan to rough cut all pieces to outside the guide lines, then sand to the proper size.

Armor finally arrived 8/13/2022:

These arrived March 2019: Ukwrath’s FOTK Shoulder brackets, fabric mesh, gaffer's tape: R2Dan's accurate First Order metal holster:

Gloves and boots arrived back in February 2018: Untitled by daryl doak, on Flickr

Hello. My name is Daryl, and I’ve been a Cloud City Garrison member for about 6.5 years. I’ve built several armored costumes (ANH stunt, ESB Snowtrooper, Dengar, AT-AT driver), but this my first experience with the FOTK. Here's my parts list, so far armor: Denuo Novo (ordered Anovos 1/9/2018) helmet: Denuo Novo standard (ordered Anovos 1/9/2018) boots: Imperial boots http://www.imperialboots.com/product/trooper7-boots-gloves/ gloves: Imperial boots http://www.imperialboots.com/product/trooper7-boots-gloves/ metal holster: R2Dan on FISD shoulder brackets: Ukswrath on FISD fabric mesh/gaffers tape: Ukswrath on FISD I plan to use the Denuo Novo instructions a little bit, but I’ll also be following other pinned builds here on FISD. Supplies: Lexan scissors Painters tape Clamps Magnets E6000 80 grit sandpaper 220 grit sandpaper 400 grit sandpaper 1000 grit sandpaper 2000 grit sandpaper Behr Paint+Primer Gloss White Behr Paint+Primer Satin Black Acetone Headlight polish Novus scratch remover 2 & 3

Someone posted the Denuo Novo instructions on FB, which the file is named “TLJ FO armor kit”. Interesting… After a quick review, I noticed that they corrected the calf numbering issue, but now there are new numbering issues: Spat numbers are reversed. Left spat should be 19A, right spat should be 20A Bicep insides are reversed. Left bicep should be 4B, right bicep should be 3B

The Anovos instructions are still mostly accurate. All parts are the same except the 2 piece TD, the 2 piece holster, and the belt is not preassembled. Also, be aware that calf left and calf right numbers are reversed. Calf left is actually 18B, calf right is 17B (calf-gate is back, IYKYK).

I received my kit today. The info page says “39 vacuum for armor parts, 21 detailed resin parts”. As shown above, there are actually 36 armor parts and 31 resin parts. And the picture on the info page has a TLJ helmet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BOE0E2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jeff, Welcome to FISD, and Cloud City Garrison. We have lots of skilled builders here in the Portland area. Even if we don’t have an armor party, our members would be more than happy to get together and help you build.