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Posts posted by Revyl
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Great build, and great pics (which will help me as reference for my own build)
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And which itself should be lockable (and locked) with a padlockIn the armour bin. Which itself is in the locker room.
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I will go the route of snap-plates made from webbing (as sold by one of the veterans here) because I feel the fact that they're flexible will help them adhere better to the armor if clamped down proberly. I can't imagine ABS plates work well because of the bulge from the back of the snap. Am I on the right track?When I use snap plates, I make them out of nylon and adhere them with E6000. Why nylon? Because unlike plastic snap plates, it forms itself to the shape of the armor - thus creating a complete seal w no gaps. Provided you keep them clamped down them while the glue is curing and wait the proper 24+ hour cure time, E6000 holds them down nice and tight. Plus there is no risk of chemically melting the plastic as there is with ABS cement.
Kudos go to Eric (Darth Aloha) for inventing that technique years ago with his RT Mod build.
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Previously I mentioned superglue remover. This came to day and is based on Nitromethane. Sadly this will melt ABS it seems, I put a few drops on an off cut and after a few minutes it went pretty soft. If I am careful I might be able to remove glue from the back of the rivets once they are off but nothing much more than that. Looks like the best way forwards is to drill out the rivets from the back then to carefully remove the caps afterwards.
I was wondering about the CA glue as well. I suppose most if not all chemical products able to dissolve CA will also attacl the ABS. But iirc freezing will make CA go brittle. I wonder if putting the belt into the freezer over night might make it brittle enough to break easier for prying the caps off.
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My kit arrived without tax/VAT invoice so far. Might be it will still come in a few days, but I might just have been lucky.
After all, the paper on the box said "plastic toy kit" so maybe that threw them off? When I ordered my boots from Imperial Boots, the vendor accidentaly sent 2 pairs, in 2 boxes, and from China. One slipped past customs and one didn't.
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I've been wondering the same thing. I think I'll go with snap plates made from webbing, glued on an additional plate of ABS with a cutout for the head of the snap (so that the "back" of the snap doesn't touch the armor, and the snap-plate lies flat.)
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Gotta watch this thread!
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I'm also disassembling the helmet to clean it up and plastidip it.Has anyone modified the lens strip in the helmet? Seems like if it was smaller, it would give some more room inside. I'm stripping the bucket out to plastidip the inside. Even if I just trimmed about 2 inches off each end and put some pads with Velcro closer to the eyes, it would help.
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I'm striving for a setup like this, eventually, minus the hearing mic setup and with less foam padding, maybe.
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Mandatory "YAY! BBB day!" pictures:
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25% ??? Wow, guess I'm lucky to live in Luxembourg. Max rate is 17% here.25% VAT plus 6% to customs. So in total 31% of the armor+shipping cost. Then the post service wants a service fee but that wasn't so expensive. That's how it works in Sweden anyway. It's not cheap.
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Mine is apparently currently in-flight from Memphis TN to Paris, and since it will ship from there to Luxembourg by Truck (I suppose), it might be delivered tomorrow during the day. Maybe I'll only get a letter from customs a few days later, as I did with my Imperial Boots, where I got the box first and a request to pay import only after the fact.
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Yeah, I haven't decided yet, as I don't have my kit yet.I haven't received my kit yet, but I'm thinking about cutting some fabric from behind the ammo belt. This can be used to cover the two holes from behind. The belt itself can be reinforced by attaching a stiffer fabric on the inside. Removing the screws probably will leave some marks, but I guess this can be ironed out.
The choice of either modifying (covering the holes and strengthening the belt) or replacing (bought on the net or sewn by my mom) is left open until I can actually get to see and feel the one they ship.
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Because of these damned 4 Chicago Screws for the holster. If it wasn't for the requirement of there only being 2 (even though there is precedence onscreen for 4 on a Stunt) nobody would complain. I'd just reinforce it on the inside and be happy. But as the CRL is formulated, it's just not approvable, even on lowest level.Since we're on the topic of the belt, when you folks have a chance visit the gallery and check out the movie belt. It's a cross between the ANOVOS and Kittel belts, in other words neither one of these two suppliers are any more accurate then the other however, if the ANOVOS supplied belt looks like a sagging bra after it's installed we might recommend a change. If it doesn't then why change it? Just a thought
http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/3156-dsc02493jpg/
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Great idea with the molds there! I always preferred the look of the T21 over the DLT. Should I ever want to build one, I'll get back to you.
In the meantime, keep us updated with yummy pics please.
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Yeah, true. Anyway, I suppose the mold-making process should be straightforward enough, and I'll just get liquid latex like you did. There's actually a sort of wall paint which we call latex-paint over here (though I suppose it's just acrylic) maybe I can add some of that into the mix.
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Great idea! I wonder if I can use the handplates from the Anovos kit (which should arrive next month) to make my own molds just like you did, and then cast them in latex as well. I'm thinking of maybe adding white paint to the latex in order to get a better color.
Maybe even try casting them in white acrylic sealant (the stuff which comes in a tube which you put into a kind of gun)
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It's because they ship from separate locations. I think the armor was shipped from California because it came from China via container ship (I think so, at least) and was boxed right there, whereas the soft parts, which also have to be matched to customer sizing specs (the armor was one size fits all) is packaged and shipped from some other place in the US.
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Yes and no. The soft parts are shipped separately in a week or two.
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Same. Ordered 17/4. If they shipped earlier than Anovos' previsions (and since some guys in the UShave gottrn theirs already), it should be on the way. If they didn't (which would mean preferential treatment for US customers) it will ship after the 31st.Waiting in Europe (Italy) too. Still nothing as of today
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Yeah, for sanding I'd go with 180-200, maybe even 400 to finish off.
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Outstanding videos. Between these ang ukwrath's build, I'll have all the info I'll need to beconfident enough to tackle my Anovos kit.
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I was actually thinking about black plastidip as well.One popular option I've read is to use the black plasti-dip coating and brush it inside the helmet. Nice thick durable layer that bonds well (but can be peeled up if need be). Available in spray or brush on versions.
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Greetings from Luxembourg! ;-)
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Yeah, I forgot to mention, I'll go with E6000 instead of CA of course. And I'll do some more reading of these boards, as you guys in the US will be further along by the time I will be able to start my build. I've no doubt there will be excellently documented build threads in the next couple of days and weeks.Not a veteran, only built one kit so far... But my two cents:
Following the directions will get you base approval for the 501st no problem. It's missing a bunch of stuff for higher level certs, but that's ok for 90% of troopers out there. The only thing I really don't like is the use of CA glue. It's going to lead to a lot of frustration for first timers, if they misalign something like the shoulder straps and have no easy way to fix it. (I know I did my shoulder straps twice, and my sniper knee at LEAST twice... and the cover strips on the back of the calves, because I put it on the wrong one... E-6000 saved my bacon plenty of times, is what I'm saying.
Now, anyone who is here and wants to go that extra step will probably toss out 90% of the velcro, do it all up with snaps, put white elastic straps under the shoulders straps, add in the three rivets on the side of the ab plate, get rubber handguards, and clean up some of the paint on the helmet...
But I could see completed builds over a weekend with superglue and the provided parts, which is kind of amazing. Not saying they'll be sized exactly to the person wearing it, but it'll be together and more or less troopable!
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Anovos Helmet Rebuild
in Assembly, Mods, and Painting
Posted
Absolutely stellar work. Very clean interior!
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