sebastien

OK clear, looking at fokker210 centurion application, it's clear that i need to sand to the ABS : http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34689-tk-22308-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-status-ata-208/?hl=%2Bata+%2Bcenturion

Ok, let's start with the forearms First identify the sides of the pieces And use the dremel to start the cuttings OK, i will check more pictures, but i think i need to trim more the return edge on the wrist side of the forearms Does the wrist side really needs to be FLAT (i mean only the 2mm of the ABS) ? It's a little bit scary to sand beside the mold mark...

Hello, This is my day !!! After around 1 year on the waiting list, i'm one of the happy few to get the ATA Kit ! I feel so excited to start this build but also so scared Big Brow box is here : That's a LOT of pieces : Let's start !

wow guys, that's really really cool ! I'm gonna make the same in my bucket as i'm really not satisfied with the gap i have between my lens and the eyes holes. Thanks for the tip and the detailed picture.

Hi All, This is my Hasbro Doopydoo conversion build. Not the best choice (but i realized that after i had some more knowledge about the available options for blasters). Conclusion : ALWAYS READ FIRST and take as much information as you can before buying anything. Anyway, i have all the material so let's start with this build. One thing that matters to me was to be able to replace the standard internals to be able to have : - A laser bulb at the knob. - A red led bulb to light the inner barrel (and make like the laser is generated from inside the gun). - A sound when pressing the trigger. To achieve that, i used an Arduino Mini pro (2$) and create a program (i can share it if anyone interested). I take some inspiration here : http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19322-arduino-a-cheap-board-for-e11-blaster-effects/?hl=arduino but i don't want to go to something as complex. I would like to create something that does not need additional modules and can be completely embedded inside the arduino mini pro board. So i extracted a blaster sound from a Youtube video and encoded it so it can be read by the arduino and store it inside the internal memory. I then used the same speaker and red led bulb and add just a red laser bulb. The result is here, but really the sound on the video is awful. it's far better in real life and not worst than the original hasbro : https://youtu.be/AxdkOlq7m5o The blaster, out of the box and the Doopydoo's Kit : My first goal is to be able to open the blaster to modify the internals. I would like to add a laser pointer instead of the led First, i cut the nose : Then remove the scope : It was really a nightmare to remove the back of the scope. The glue is VERY HARD What should happend, happend : i broke the back. I will need to replace that piece. Ok, path is now clear Argh, the top rail is also glued with the same hard glue... need to break it... I sand the legal writings And finally i can open the blaster Inside the gun I removed all the internals and then some more sanding : the scope rail And the heading and the barrel bottom rails. WARNING : If you follow this thread don't make the same mistake as me. You only need to remove the 6th rail, the one on the right side of the gun if the barrel is aiming at you. I should have watched more pictures and read more documentation because i made a terrible mistake here. So, i sand both of the bottom barrel rails and use guides to drill holes inside I was proud of the result until i figured out my mistake ! I then figured out my mistake and after crying, i tried to find a solution. So my option was to make a copy of one of the additional rails used in the doopydo kit. A kind of recast for my own purpose I used plaster to create a mold of the rail After sanding, the result is really average, but i will try to hide that with weathering... OK, now the internals... I start to connect the arduino I replace the standard board with a breadboard behind the trigger I added a switch on the breadboard to catch the trigger pull As the arduino shoul be powered with more than 3v (it's a 5v arduino pro), i sanded the internals of the battery compartment to fit a 9v battery : Same on the cap I put the laser bulb inside the doopydoo nose : And then i applied the doopydoo mod on the blaster The fold needs some sanding One thing that bother me on the hasbro is that the exhaust hole cover is on the wrong side, so i tried to create a new one using the chunk of the scope i cut previously I sand it on the good shape and then glued it on the barrel Now it's time for painting the black coat On the side where there are holes, i covered the holes with a tape to avoid painting my red led bulb in black I then finished the painting with a small brush I then used silver paint for the inner barrel with a small piece of cardboard glued on the barrel End result The finished gun

Not exactly that was some pages with the same template as the forum but not in the forum. Anyway, all the links you provided in this post are really useful too. I am reading as much as i can while on the ATA waiting list

OK, great thank you.

I'm using the link from the left hand menu : and i receive an error message : This was not a link to a forum section, but HTML static pages that contains links to specific forum posts.

Hello, Sorry if this has been covered before, but the Tutorials section seems to be out of order : http://www.whitearmor.net/fisd/Tutorials This section was really useful for me and as i am in my build, i'm using it as a reference. Below the error message : First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment has a problemSorry! This site is experiencing technical difficulties. Try waiting a few minutes and reloading. (Can't contact the database server: The server requested authentication method unknown to the client (localhost)) Thank you

OK, thanks for the super glue tip, i will do that. For the teeth too, you are right, when i look at pictures in centurion applications it seems the paint is closer to border.

OK, next run. I tried to find a moskito mesh to stick inside the teeth I cut it the shape of the mouth OK, now it's time to paint ! I really do not feel comfortable with painting so i asked for some help of my wife I purchased Humbrol paint. I started with the easiest, the mic tips I painted them using black mate spray paint To be sure i would not make any mistake, i purchased a "DaveM" decals set : started with the back shapes : then front shapes : I taped the outside of the mouth to be sure there will be no paint outside the mouth OK, my wife decided to start with the vocoder : It's looking gooood darling ! then the mouth (OK, the blue tape is really useless...) : Removed the tape, its looking really good after the second coat and the mic tips : The ears, starting with a black coat : then the gray one : I cut the lens material to get a straight band : I then drilled a hole on one side : and attached the lens to the first screw : I then drilled the second hole and attached the lens to the second screw : using a whiteboard marker i draw the nose shape and the cut the nose : I then mount the helmet all together with the lens, say "hello" Mr "No stripes" : time to stick the stipes : yes ! It's awesome, i love it ! OK, next i tried to stick the s-shaped liner under the bucket, but i experienced some problems : It seems i have some "bumps" as the s-shaped liner is bend too much. I tried it in different ways and the photo above seem to be the best i was able to achieve... Do you have an idea about the way i can avoid this ?

Thank you man

Ok, next run. I tried to fit both parts of the helmet together and attach with clamps : I checked on both sides how it fits Then, i drilled the ear hole to attach both parts together : And add the screw : Same on the other side : On the left side (looking at the helmet), it seem to fit well : On the right side, i have a small plastic part that is not going the good way. It's seems the problem is the same for all ATA : I do not already have my heat gun, so i used an iron to get that piece back on the good side : It's starting to really look gooooood ! Ok, now it's time to go for the hardest part : the ears.... Hopefully, ATA Helmet kit comes with 2 pairs, so you can make mistakes. Let's take a beer-stop, move to the garage where i can make more dust and start with that ears. OK, first step, i tried to use a whiteboard pen to draw the "flat" part of the ear : Then i draw the curved part, following approximatively the indentation i can guess and another line far below to show where i need to cut. I start cutting straight the flat part using my magic dremel extension : the cut is rough, it really looks horrible on the pictures. But the idea is just to remove some material and then to sand until i have the perfect fit. Ok, some material is removed, it's now time to move to the sanding tool : Looks really much better OK, there's really too much material and i need to sand more Still sanding until it fits on both sides. I do not have pictures, but on the flat side, i also sand the front portion for 2mm to match the fit between the rear side and the front side of the helmet : Then i drilled the holes : The lower hole too and screwed everything together : I then sand the lower portion of the ears, near the bucket opening to have something smooth OK, next ear, on this one, the limit seems much more clear (should have started with this one ) : Rough cut : And final fit : Now i removed the screws and washed the bucket to remove mold oil (it smells like my engine oil ) : OK, that's it for this run. Next step : painting. I'm still wondering if i would like to plasti-dip the inner bucket and before that, i need to determine if i will attach the lens on the screws (more simple) or cut eyes in the lens material and attach it on some small wood pieces attached around the eyes (nicer but really more complex). To be continued

Yes, i will give it a cleaner finish, i was just waiting to see if i need to cut more material. Thank you for your feedback.

I squared a little bit the teeth do you think it's OK ?

It's not a standard Dremel, a Chinese copy from a local retailer in France. But the extender tool is really useful !

Hello, This is my first build and i am starting with a ATA Helmet. I received the brow box some month ago, but i must admit i was a little bit stressed and take a lot of time to watch build threads to be sure i can apply : "Think twice, cut once !" I'll try to follow the advices of this build thread : http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14806-how-to-assembling-ata-abs-helmet-1/ OK, so let's start ! The kit looks really beautiful ! I start by marking the trim area around the ears with a whiteboard erasable pen. I then used a plastic piece to mark the top of the cap I then drilled a hole in the junction area Same on the other side I then start to cut with a metal knife. The ABS is really thick ! It's hard to cut. Then i do the same on the face plate And the section under the neck According to the post i'm using as a reference, i draw line at 1.25" above the eyes (around 3.2 cm) and then i cut it I am then sanding all the cuttings to have something smooth and clean Time to cut the eyes. I mark the bump around the eyes with the whiteboard marker Using a Dremel i'll cut the eyes Then, using sandpaper and small file i smooth all the cuttings Using the dremel, i then sands the back of the teeth to open them Then, using a hobby blade and some small files, i opened all the teeth what do you thing of my frown ? Should i "square" it a little bit more ?

Wow, if it's the kit you describe in your thread here : http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28047-phoenix-props-e-11-stormtrooper-blaster-kits-a-new-hope-and-esb/ it Soooooo nice ! I really love it. Unfortunately a little bit expensive for my actual budget... i will wait a little bit (after my armor kit) and buy one. OK, you're right i will go step by step. First the EIB with the Hasbro and then the Centurion with a new blaster. Thank you all for your replies.

Hello, I just acquired an Hasbro and Conversion kit but realize (i should have read first...) that it's not suitable to be approved. What are the good options to get a full approved E11 blaster ? Does this kit is the good one ? http://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp It seems out of stock, is there any other supplier for it ? Thank you for your help.

like it Wow... ok i did not realize it was so much work... Thank you very much for your post with the full details. Very helpful to understand what's "behind the scene".

Got it : Ok, that's not what i imagined. Very interesting to know how it works. Thank you for your replies Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk

--- Sorry for the english mistakes. French trooper on board --- Hi All, Sorry for my newbie question. I just received my ATA helmet and it looks-like great , i really would like to start the build ASAP. For the armor kit, there is a 10 month waiting list ! so i will have to wait until the end of the year to be a complete stormtrooper I was wondering why the waiting list is so long. I believed it was because it's not a full-time job or that it's a way to maintain some "exclusivity" on the product... So i asked the guy behind the ATA email why he does not produce more kit as it can be a good way for him to earn more money. He told me it's a full-time job and he receive more orders than what he can produce. I must admit i was shocked ! I realized i don't really understand what is the amount of work needed to build a kit. I don't want to bother the people at ATA that's why i'm asking more questions here. In my naïve mind, the armor kits are made out of a big ABS sheet. There is a metal mold and a big press. The ABS sheet is heated and the press apply the sheet on the mold. It seems like a 5 minutes process. I realized it's not so obvious. Does anybody know how the kits are made ? Or even better has some pictures of the "machines" used to create the kits ? Thank you for all the information you can provide to educate me on this subject.

Thank you for your feedback, that totally makes sense. I really like the look of the "bubble eyes" in the hero helmet but it seems more complex to qualify for hero from an ATA and maybe not a good idea for the first build... I will start with a stunt :-)

Hello, I'm sorry to ask a newbie question but is it possible to create a hero armor out of an ATA kit ? Does the difference between stunt and hero is in the way you build the kit (less teeth, bubble eyes, ...) or in the original mold of the kit you are using ? Thank you for the tips

Hi, I would like to start an ATA armor build and I will first start with the helmet. I have a question around the neck seal. I checked the tutorial, but none of the sources are still selling neck seals. --------- The only one i can find to buy are on ebay. --------- but they seems to have 7 ribs instead of 11. Does they are approved ? Do you know a good source to buy a top quality neck seal ? Thank you for your help.