Moussvroum

Thank you Dan. I see you used Hammerite Hammered black. If I understand, it's not a flat black paint but it has a good texture ?

Does anyone knows what kind of prism I could use in the scope ? I'd like to see through it like a real one

-> Thank you Tino for the t-tracks tutorial -> Hassan, for the paint job (the more difficult job for me : I hate painting ), it'll be a flat black, with just a little weathering. I wasn't satisfied by the screw fixing the hengstler counter. The head was too big and touch the main tube when fixing the rail. The counter wasn't strictly vertical. I also wanted the counter not to rotate on the bracket. So I decided to had a nut in the counter in order to tighten more the screw. The nut is fixed with bi-component epoxy glue for metal. I also changed the screw with a more curved head one. The result is more solid and the screw is less visible.

Thanks guys T-tracks are at home. Need to find some time to prepare them. Need to test how to curve them. Will try hot water first.

I’ve cut the rail. Not a laser cut but very satisfied. I’ve made a screw thread in the Hengtler and fixed it on the rail. The result is better than the first try. As mentioned in the FISD e11 reference “ The top of the counter should be aligned with the centerline of the scope. The Hengstler logo should be aligned with the front foot of the scope.” Time to assemble the blaster and to show you some pictures !

Sorry I wasn't clear. The bracket is a part of the rail. Just one piece.

Thanks Tino and Aaron. I've working on the scope rail. I had to add washers to prevent the scope from moving. Almost invisible The counter bracket is included in the rail but I think it puts the counter to much forward. If I refer to the FISD e11 blaster reference, the counter bracket must be after the first feet of the scope, not before. I’ll have to cut half of the bracket. Luckily, the rail is in hard steel. Half of it should be enough to fix the Hengstler. Do you agree with me ?

I wasn't satisfied that the bolt could not move in the main tube. This kit is near perfect, so why the bolt shouldn't move ? I decided to sold the part that connect the folding stock on the main tube. I used a bi-component glue for metal, not to wrap the main tube with soldering. I used the screws to maintain the parts during the process. Two days after, the result seems to be very strong. I trimmed the parts and I cut the screws so they don't stick in the tube (5mm less). I'm very happy with the result. I took the opportunity to fill the little hole near the "S" selector.

Thank you Chris. I made this mistake because the first screw couldn't go in the bottom of the main part. I've finished the hole and everything went like you said

Does anyone know how to assemble the visor ? It move on the sides ... I've asked Chris.

Chris, you're right ! Your kit is so good that I forget it's just a replica and not a real one

Thank you Tino. What kind of glue should I use with aluminum parts ?

I've made some photos for you. I think I won't try to trim the flash guard and the ejector port guard I’ve assembled the rear sight and the end cap clip (haven't understand what is it for until now ). Screws go beyond in the receiver. I’ll trim them (grew arrows). But I can’t trim the screws which maintains the connection between the folding stock and the receiver (red arrows). I can unscrew them, insert the bolt and screw again. But the bolt can’t move in the receiver. It seems that the solution is to solder the folding stock connection. Any other tip ?

Thanks Tino. You're an artist !

Today I corrected a minor default on the handle. I’m asking myself a lot of question about the paint. This part is for me the more difficult because I’ve two left hands in painting ... I’m planning to use a flat black. I saw some people use a stone fine texture charcoal. Some don’t. Still don’t know what to do …

Chris told me it was a mistake. It used to be a mount point but it wasn't needed. I have to fill it.

Chris sent me a new screw for the handle but I was unable to insert it in his hole. After measuring, I realized the screw was too big for the hole. I rebuild the thread (M6 diameter) and the screw. Before that, I tested my method on the screw I’ve destroyed (it is in aluminum so it’s easy). Et voilà ! Don't know if US thread are different from European one ? There is a little hole near the “S” selector but I’ve no screw for it. I don’t know if a screw is missing or if it’s just … a hole. No screw on Fieldmarshall pictures. What is this hole for ? Any idea ?

Thank you all for these good advices ! I've wet-sanded it with super fine sand paper + water and after that I used a dremel with cutting compound. The result is better. But I'm not totaly satisfied. Will try to use novus (I've some for my TK helmets). Anyway, I've ordered another lens to Chris yesterday.

Thank Tino. Will try. Have you an idea to fix it without altering it ? May be a little dot of hot glue ?

I've found a thinner magnet from another hard disk drive (before 2 mm -> now 1 mm). Almost invisible and still very strong.

Thanks Some news about the Hengstler replica building. I thought the button wasn’t working with this kit when I saw that there was a spring behind it. After some trimming to remove the paint the button works perfectly. I also have to enlarge one of the sensor pin because it was to small. I decided not to add the wires inside the counter because we don’t see them. The holes to fix the rear part were missing. I used adhesive paper to dig exactly at the good place. I dig several diameters successively. I wasn’t satisfied with the numbers. I tried to repaint them but I wasn’t satisfied … I’ve disassemble a real Hengstler counter 260-634 (still have 3 if interested) and I’ve adapted the numbers to the replica (Hengstenstein counter !). The result is fantastic ! I havn't any TK number so I chose "1977" I made a big mistake when I tried to glue the clear lens with cynolite. The vapor have destroyed the lens. I’ve ordered another one to Chris. Looking for an idea to fix it.

I've received the screw. Many thanks Chris. But the thread wasn’t in a good shape and I must rebuilt it with a tap. I must be very carefull because the screw is in aluminum and very fragile. I seems that this particular screw has specific dimensions not very usual. An other bad news : I must order another hengtler lens. Cynolite vapors have damaging it Have to find something to fix the lens without damaging it. Any idea ?

This week-end I’ve worked on the sensor. I’ve chosen a “type A” sensor. I’ve dremeled some metal beards (laser cut I think) and I've assembled the two tubes to the main metal part (be careful, the notched end goes to the rear of the sensor) . They match perfectly. I’ve curved the tabs on the steel chassis and glued the tube with cyanolite to prevent them from moving. The three small holes weren't big enough so I’ve to enlarge them in order to pass the capacitor extremity. After that, I’ve cut and twist them with pliers. I’ve inserted the copper bars and fixed the sensors extremities. The main difficulty was to assemble the little capacitors. I’ve soldered some of them and glued with cyanolite the others (the paper tape was to prevent fingerprint on tubes with the glue ... ). I’ve cut the extremities of the sensors (diamond disk for Dremel). To fix the sensor to the magazine, I was looking for a way to do that with out drilling the aluminum receiver. I’ve disassembled an old hard disk drive : magnets are very strong and 2 mm thick (may be less). They are strong enough to interact with the real steel magazine under the aluminum receiver and the sensor don’t move (it’s 83gr with the magnet !). Et voilà ! I'm pretty happy with the result

Hum ... difficult your question is ! Thinking about this I must ! Today I’ve assembled the stock. I’ve sand the little parts of metal with a Dremel. I’ve cleaned and tested the threads (WD40 is my friend !). Then, I've washed all the parts and I’ve followed Chris tutorial here. The spring plate and shoulder rest didn’t fit well and I’ve trimed the spring plate. I must say I’m absolutely bluffed with the precision of the mechanism. It works perfectly !

Chris told me today that he sent me a new screw. This man is really a great guy !