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artimorty

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Posts posted by artimorty

  1. Spring. All the way. I used 18ga wire.

    Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

    Ok. I'll try. Honestly I was trying to skip this, but you're right. Once started, why don't try to go all the way? Now checking the e11 blaster reference to see how to get this done. Copied your 18 gauge wire suggestion. Hope to post some progress soon. Thanks.
    • Like 1
  2. Hi.

    Some issues with the charging handled have led me to failure. Don't know why but the milliput wasn't curing right as usual. Though this stuff is pretty forgiving, I don't know if the proportions I mixed last time were erroneous or if I used too much water to smooth it while it was very fresh or whatever but It never cured properly and when I tried to sand the surface as usual, it just teared off like dry plasteline...

    0f1228f18a1ed44e204b79d603af7fb7.jpg

    So I went for harder stuff and changed to tamiya modeling putty. This isn't better or worse, just different. It dries faster and is harder to sand, and gets stickier much faster so is somehow difficult to get into shape on time. Another point is that is harder to sand than the base plastic tube I used, so I had to work carefully there.

    4e4eda48789eaa82c58c167d5ea36ea1.jpg

    Once dried and sanded used tamiya sandind paste to fill the gaps and get a smooth finish. This is how the piece shows now. Happy with it.

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    Now trying to figure out if I want a spring in there or cover the whole charging slot from the inside with a piece of pipe and no spring shown. Any suggestions?

     

     

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  3. Wow that looks great. <br>

    And the weathering finishes it perfectly. <br>

    Was your daughter happy with it?!

    You bet she was! Here's the proof:

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    While all the other girls in her class were dressed as regular Disney princess, she was the badass Rey and had a lot of fun running and fighting with a kylo there. Many teachers and parents approached me to ask about the gun and compliment on it. Was fantastic. She was very proud and though she played a lot and passed around the toy gun to many of her friends, incredibly the piece survived the day without a scratch, and to my delight she asked me to make her a display set to be placed over her bed, to "defend herself from the monsters if she ever has a nightmare"

    This is what I did for her:

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    Thank you very much for you interest... and being a fotk as you are... my advice... if you see my Rey lady with her new gun... run for you life!!!

     

     

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  4. Hi there again.

    Today I've start using milliput on the handle, to cover the mess I got there. I want this smooth, so I use water to get the putty going easier, but is taking longer than usual to dry.

    38d0726b2aedbcd8e1421943175e61af.jpg

    So, I also started the charging handle. For that I inserted a thin stripe of sintra inside a plastic tube I have that luckily is the right size. This is to reinforce the strength and allow me to bend it without flexing, and maintaining constant diameter.

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    Then, using a heat gun very slightly applied heat on the marks I made where I want the tube to bend.

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    Double check with the template

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    Now added more milliput to get the rounded end and engrossing the base.

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    Annnnnnd... I'm not very good at waiting, so, while the milliput hardens enough to allow sanding, I've gone to mod the t track on the middle of the right side of the tube. This t track is much too long and gets up to the flash guard. So I took it off, first with a hobby saw, then modeling with the dremel, and finishing the area with sanding sticks.

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    Thanks for watching.

     

     

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  5. WOW! Great job! I'm liking this build.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Thanks very much. Very kind of you. I'm having a lot of fun. Hopefully tomorrow I could get back to get some work done. I have a couple ideas I want to try. Let's see what happens.
  6. Hi there. Been busy with this project last two days. I think that successfully finishing my other side project (the nn-14 blaster for my daughter, also on this forums, you shouldn't miss it! ) has left me a hole hard to fill and I'm trying to overcompensate with doble work on this.

    I am eager to share this tasty and funny update with you all (it's already April's fool?). I must confess that last night I fell asleep thinking about how to make the free-lock letters on the trigger group pin... there's not an easy answer for making this letters . First I thought making them casting liquid plastic on a clay mold, but then the letters would have come out mirrored...

    This morning, just as I opened my eyes an answer came to me... as illuminated by the midiclorians themselves: "use the... Soup!!!" Of course, pasta letters! That pasta letters used for the soups. So, with this idea on mind I went to different supermarkets till a got two different brands of pasta letters, little differences between their letters, in shape, size and fonts.

    This afternoon I searched for the some viable letters. If you ever asked, the "k" is by far the most difficult letter to find in a common package and this is a fact. And as scarce as they are, not many of them look fine enough.

    After I selected a couple of each letter needed, I sanded them flat very carefully on a sand paper.

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    Then a test on the piece. It was tricky to glue them, due to how tiny and light they are. I used a school transparent glue, that allow repositioning and is slow curing.

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    The c and the k broke a couple of time and had to take some more.

    Once cured, I covered them all with a light layer of CA superglue, the one that is applied with a brush... to seal the pasta letters and keep them in place forever. An unexpected effect occurred then, luckily a happy one since I hadn't make any previous tests on how CA glue interacts with pasta. Somehow it melted the letters a little bit, making the much smother than before. I think now they look much better.

    3a8be582049bb6e7287281498d18a5f1.jpg

    Well, that's all for now. I know my letters are not the right size (just a tiny tiny bit bigger) or the right font, but Hey! I've got letters on my rubie's handle! How cool is that?!

    I've to take a few days off on vacation. Sadly, building the new contour with putty will have to wait until we get back. Hope to get back here soon with news.

    Stay tuned.

    Thanks for reading.

     

     

     

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    • Like 3
  7. Hello again.

    Been thinking about the right handle time after time, and after paying closer attention to several pictures, I wasn't very pleased with the last mods and decided I can try something better.

    First I decided I had to mod more of the part conecting to the trigger guard, it was too way out of proportions and made the thing look strange. Made new pencil marks for later be carved out.

    Then I understood that something was wrong the way the trigger group retaining pin looked (had to look for the right name of the area). Three things bothered me the most about it. It stands out when should be standing below. It is smaller than it should be and it's somehow out of place. Sooooo, made an stencil of a circle that I felt was right in size and used it to draw a new and bigger circle in a better placement.

    c8a976587b237df49ef24c5ad938a9a0.jpg

    I also saw the chance to mod the back part of the trigger, to give it a more straight and sharp angle, instead of the rounded appearance that it has.

    Dremel time again! But now with protective clear hard glasses... all offending excess material was taken away.

    ab97f54fe9e85556d361961987a3188b.jpg

    Then, once I was more or less happy with it, I started the building of the new contour, initially using sintra leftovers to cover the main holes and give support for the putty later on.

    25976c9039c7395752facd5e33a135e3.jpg

    I call this second round against the right handle mine, but this isn't over yet. Stay tuned.

    Thanks for reading.

     

     

     

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  8. Hi again. Today I've started the modding of the right side of the handle. After studying several images, I didn't see any easy way to approach the right form, so I went for something close enough, at least in my opinion. Decided to carve out most of the upper side of the piece, from the top of free-lock sign up to the folding stock. Even when this leaves a middle section much longer to the trigger that it should be, there is not much more I can do without a major transformation of the whole grip, and at least this mod resembles more the general contour of the piece.

     

    A little safety advice here. While dremeling the area, a small piece of melted plastic that was pointy and hot flew at an amazing speed and reached my unprotected eye. No worries, I'm ok. But something much worse could have happened. And I'm a complete idiot because I have protective glasses just beside me, but a combination of laziness, stupidity, overconfidence and rushed work could have cost me an eye. And by the way, I detected a safety issue with the dremel. It has no "panic button" or "dead man safety", meaning this that once started, if you have any issue that makes you take your hand off the machine (you get cut, it drops, you faint, you slip and fall, a zombi rampage your neighborhood, you name it!), it will continue running uncontrolled... with potentially disastrous consequences...

    After this "safety first" speech, ill get back to topic:

    Then I started to cover the hole I just made with scratch pieces of sintra to get the new shape.

    9626dbf70127ebd32e36bf1c0967a4fd.jpg

    Those were CA glued together to form a case that once dried will hold some putty to get the proper shape, if my plans go well. This was a little tricky since I had to work in a tiny space, with small pieces and all sticky with glue, and from the inside to the outside.

    6a6e364791b2ecbd91b22121859a4f98.jpg

     

    I forgot to mention the other day that I also made the impressions on the sights using some milliput and the hold of and old automatic screwdriver, as seen on the blaster reference thread.

    febefd8d494f55b7781424c4d29dc36a.jpg

     

    Let's see if tomorrow I can make the new form on the handle. Stay tuned!

    Thanks for watching.

     

     

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    • Like 1
  9. Little advance today. I've done the reset bottom for the hengstler counter and the little trap under the magazine port. The first with a piece of plastic from a sign, and the second with a thin piece of plastic, glued in position and sanded as flat as possible.

    5d5a39b1a73274770bd0501993e184ad.jpg

    Now modding the other half of the handle. Stay tuned.

     

     

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    • Like 1
  10. That's official. I call this done!

    Soooooo happy with the results! And hey!!! I'VE BUILT SOMETHING!!! Myself!!! Out of nothing!!! Couldn't be prouder... my first build is done. Obviously it has many mistakes but keep in mind is just a toy for my little girl, to complete her Rey's costume and have fun. All this work just for her fun, that's a glorious reward. Now to get my mind ready for the time when she drops the thing or uses it to smash something on the wall. Never mind. I will always have this pictures to remind me this awesome learning journey.

    Here comes some pics to show the piece, best I could do on the iPhone. Hope you like them.

    Thanks to everyone that stopped here and gave me their time.

    Thanks for watching

     

    54c95db5083bf77cd1b6866b72c88393.jpg

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  11. Hi again. Well, final steps have to be taken, and just over the deadline! My daughter has a costume party this Friday at the school and has repeatedly ask for her blaster to complete the Rey's outfit. So, impelled by her pleas and encouraged by some examples here on the boards (thanks very much to djmatrix09 for his pictures and advice) today have started weathering and final assembly, not without troubles...

    First I sprayed a bright clear lacquer over the pieces. Then started weathering, first the barrel, mainly with acrylic "grey black" and some "oily steel". Over the barrel top I rubbed a cotton cloth with old gold rub'n'buff, and over it some watered metallic blue and bright purple until I got some gradient to mimic the overheated metals.

    The main body has now a first layer of the same wash of black gray and oily steel in some spots.

    Then I cut the head of the screw that was used for assistance during the painting and simply screwed the whole barrel into position, with some glue to keep it in place. Same was done for the lower piece.

    44db543f859c8fa45a56d9c6eac2324a.jpg

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    Now impatient test prior to final assembly. Only the back part to weather and decide if that's enough or more dirt needed

    Any suggestions are welcomed

    5aa0645139536f6ae6a55ee48ee73edb.jpg

     

     

     

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  12. Thanks for the tips and the tutorial, I'll keep in mind that Elmer's glue trick. In fact I already hit amazon to see if I can get some here in Spain. Your advice gets proverbially in the right time, an also with the best example! Cause I'm just about to finish a little side project for my daughter, precisely a small nn-14, and surely I'd use yours as reference... (by the way, build thread also on this boards ;) )<br>

    Double thanks.

    • Like 1
  13. Woow Andrew. Very nice speed build. Can't get it any better any faster. The adds make the piece stand out. You weren't kidding about the killer paint job. You and your wife make this seem easy, but nailed that subtle equilibrium between weathering but not too much. Congrats, it looks great in the final pics with that nice background.<br>

    One question, what's that "black acrylic, water and Elmer's glue" thing for the weathering? I mean, I've seen the watered acrylic paint for weathering, but never with glue! What's that for? To add some texture or something?<br>

    Again, very nice job.

    • Like 1
  14. Well, today I've working again on the magazine to finish the area.<br>

    First cut the pieces for the small clip. Three pieces glued together. Then placed a tube section inside and make two fake small bolts out of some tamiya modelling putty.<br>

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    Finally went for the off plate, but since I don't know yet how to engrave some decent letters on it, I'll skip that part for later if I ever do that.<br>

    Just cut a plastic plate, cut the corners in angles and drilled a hole on it. Then, once glued, carved a smaller hole inside the one in the plate to accommodate a metal ball I got from a ball chain, the ones that come with the skin stoppers.<br>

    cc40f925374099cd203e8bb6062fa520.jpg

    Pretty happy with how this is coming along.<br>

    Thanks for your attention.

  15. You've inspired me to mod a Rubies! Not going crazy with my Dremel, just ttracks, holes in the barrel, stock, and charging track. With a few added 3d printed greeblies, it'll look pretty good.

    Thanks Andrew. Best luck in your mods. Please, consider to start a thread so I can follow your progress and learn how you solve same problems on a different approach. I'm also adding some 3D printed parts later on... some things aren't easy to build.

    You will see that the rubies plastic is veeeery soft and it's easy to sand, melt, drill, mill or mod... that said for good and for bad, it doesn't break easy and reacts very well to CA glue, so I'd suggest using some 60 secs drying over the faster ones.

    Any question or suggestions... feel free to ask. Glad to help if I can.

    • Like 1
  16. Wow. That's one heck of an impressive amount of modding. I wouldn't have the patience, I hope you enjoy the actual process as much as the final product!

    Thanks for stopping by, kalani. I'm having sooooo much fun with this and I couldn't have imagined it in advance

    Probably because up to now, most of the things I've tried have worked out well, and that's encouraging and have taken me to try other things time after time. The main problem I have now is where to stop, cos any picture I see for references get me thinking... "how I could get something like that on my blaster?". Really enjoying this.

    • Like 1
  17. Little progress, but still some.

    Since I had to use some metallic spray paint for a side project (my Rey's nn-14 blaster for my daughter), I saw the opportunity to make the inner bar for the folding stock. So I cut a wood bar, sanded, spray paint in rustoleum gloss black and after dried, two light coats of rustoleum metallic chrome paint.

    I think this paint works great in selling the trick of an aluminum rod.

     

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    Thanks for your attention.

     

     

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