Khazid
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Posts posted by Khazid
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I love the picture with the balloon hat. Thank you for sharing!
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Great idea on the socket driver, going to put that in my build binder!
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I've got a couple, depending on the mood.
Ride the Lightning, Metallica
Fantasia on a Theme, Thomas Tallis
The Gambler, Kenny Rogers
Candy Man, Christina Aguilera
And that is just a few, consider me eclectic when it comes to music. LOL
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Magnet sachets for the win
Just a small square of fabric, I use old khaki's that are cut up. Cut the square large enough to be 6x the width of the magnet itself. Gather up the material around the magnet and then secure tightly with a small zip tie (1/8" wide tie). I then use a sharpie to mark the bottom of the magnet with a + or a - so that I know polarity for matching up opposites to bind the item I am working on.The zip tie keeps the magnet from "walking", that is to flip over, the extra material coming out of the top above helps you separate. The material on the bottom acts as a buffer to prevent scratches when sliding. Only mistake I've made with these is not giving the sharpie long enough time to dry and I've stained the surface of the model I was working on. Easy enough to fix during painting, but on armor that would be harder to deal with.
Enjoy!
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Going to have to rely on the more seasoned vets than I. I think you could still raise the back a little by doing some alterations at the shoulder to pull up the back plate. However; there is large amount of overlap on the kidney, my suggestion will only get you like 1-2 inches at most. Maybe Gazmozis or TK Bondservant will chime in here for you with some suggestions for you.
I wish you luck.
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I would use a clear styrene abs glue, something similar to Pro Weld. It isn't as harsh as acetone, which might dissolve too much of the surrounding area. It sets up in like 10 seconds and would help fill in some shallow cuts, deeper ones with multiple applications. After that, sand it smooth and use novus to polish it up.
I use Pro Weld on plastic model kits, its better than the testors glue as it sets up so much faster. It happens to work on ABS as well
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Some veterans will know better than I, but look to change your strapping at the shoulders to pull the entire back plate up. This should allow it to align with the kidney plate. No trimming needed.
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Are there available measurement on where to drill the holes? The closest to the edge appears to be about 1/4" from the edge, but I have no idea on the second one.
Thanks.
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Now I could escape it no further, I had to make a call on the straw. After some helpful insight from Gazmozis, it turns out that the straw is just too big and I need another solution. In the end, I decided to modify the suggestion that Sean gave me. Thank you to the both of you for the input.
I extended the drilled hole in the scope itself to go to the front foot. I removed the straw construction and plugged the holes in both the rail and the scope. Lastly, a larger hole was drilled into the front foot and a channel has now been dug, just wide enough to accommodate two wires, to go from the front foot and into the counter via the bracket. I have a picture, but will call it out later as I go through my steps with the counter. Sean, I was wrong about the instability, the bracket and assembly held up just fine.
So it was time for the counter, which will house the LED Bar Graph, Selected Weapon LED, MP3 Player, Audio Amp, reload switch and all the accompanying wires/resistors. I have my work cut out for me, so it was time to dig in.
First I had to clean up the counter, the details didn’t make it from the pull. So it was time for some magic sculpt.
Once that was all dried, I had to separate the front of the counter from the back of the counter. I broke out my jewelers saw, which is always on my hobby bench, and there was no turning back.
It was time for “eater†and I dug out the interior of the counter that will run the wiring and be the primary support. At the same time, I created a paper template for the breach cover and then broke out my zinc sheet to cut it out. It took some shaping with pliers and the dremel, then I could attach it to the counter. This breach cover is designed to ride just under the bracket and rest against the barrel, hiding all the wiring that is going to go via a hole I will eventually drill there.
I now attached the counter to the bracket via pins created from the pop rivets I used earlier in the assembly.
Not bad progress, I am happy with how this is coming so far. Here is what it looks like with the rail put into the barrel.
To allow for the servicing of parts, the front of the counter will actually attach via magnets in the back, along with the top and bottom screws, which I will make functional. To accomplish this, the wall of the counter closest to the barrel will be permanently attached. Here are some shots of that. You’ll notice in the first pic listed you can see the channel for the scope wiring that was dug into the bottom of the bracket. The wires do feed successfully into the breach cover I have created.
Now it was time to create the shell for the front that will hold the electronics. This will be the outer side, top and bottom. The first picture is the interior support piece that has zinc sheeting on the back layer. That zinc sheeting hits the magnets I have put into the bracket to hold it in.
With the support glue set, I was able to complete the shell. The only part I am missing is the front plate, which will also have to be custom made. That will be for another day. All of the shell was created out of scrap 2mm ABS that I had on hand.
When glue was drying on the earlier steps, I took the time to create the reset switch by using some scrap ABS. Here is where I am at with that, before adding filler to complete the shape. I have found out my camera really sucks at super close up photos. I need to go back and figure out how to do those shots as I think it is me more than the camera. LOL!
Last part that I finished was creating the window for the LED Bar Graph. To try and get it close to the actual Hengstler 400, I shaped a piece of dowel with my dremel, and then heated up some clear styrene with my heat gun to conform to the shape. This will work out nice, and after some finishing shaping, it fits perfect for what I want to accomplish.
I hope you all had a good Holiday weekend. I hope to have more updates soon.
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Well it has been some time, hasn’t it? Time for some updates!
When we last left off, I was finishing the scope and not really satisfied with the “straw†solution for wiring the LED I plan to put in there. I set that aside and started work on the façade that will go into the bolt to replicate a spring, without being a spring.
We start with aluminum tubing used for railroad modeling. I used two different types. The 4mm will be the support tubes, while the 3mm will be chopped up into small segments to replicate the spring coils.
The 4mm tubes were glued into holes made into the sidewalls of the bolt assembly. I used 2 part epoxy for this assembly stage.
Once that was set up, I cut a channel in the tubes using the dremel cut off wheel. Then I marked a rough estimation of how I wanted the coils to lay out.
I used two different types of pliers to pinch and shape the small coil cuts from the 3mm tubing. I set them in each spot, checking the fit. At this point I wasn’t concerned about how it looked, just that the pieces fit and that I could get 11 coils in total.
Now it was time to glue with the 2 part epoxy again. I stopped every three coils to check placement by loading the barrel with the bolt assembly. In the end, this is what I had.
After filling in the remaining channel gaps with Magic Sculpt, I trimmed off the ends and behold, the springs are a reality! In all this was about 6 hours of work to complete. I took my time to make sure the coils would really look like a spring. I am very happy with the results.
Going back to the scope, I took another detour and worked out my targeting reticle. I used the scanned image from the trooperbay sticker to get a general idea of how I wanted it to look. Then in Corel Paintshop Pro, a program similar to Photoshop, I broke out the reticle into three pieces. These were then printed onto decal paper and following the manufacturers instructions, I created decals to put onto clear styrene. Here you can see the test set laid out with the reflecter and lens.
I then stacked the pieces onto the LED that will go into the scope on my test board and lit it up for a test run. It is difficult to see the 3-D effect from this picture, but in person the effect was very nice. I believe in the final installation I’ll use some Tamya Clear Green to paint that first layer by the LED to diffuse the light even more.
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Once you lay down the paint templates you can brush on a thin layer of gloss white, it cuts down on the bleeding.
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You could always add another rivet that will be hidden by the ears to get that bulge to "lay" down. I picked that up from some other builds
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Great looking armor. I could be wrong here, so wait for Gazmosis to officially comment, but I believe the cod rivet should be nickel/silver and not painted white.
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You can get mineral spirits at local paint stores, home depot, lowes, etc. I would be cautious of any brush cleaner as it could be acetone based. If you aren't sure, always test the cleaner on scrap abs first to see if you get chemical burns, warping etc.
For the gloss white, any testors gloss white should do the trick. I have even seen some posts with members using white na polish.
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I would look to smooth out some of the handpainted lines around the edges. You can do this with a toothpick that is dipped in mineral spirits. It will crisp them up without losing the handpainted look. There is also the smudge beneath the left trap (when looking from the rear) that can also be cleaned up with mineral spirits, via a Q-tip and some elbow grease. Minor details, but I think it looks great!
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Next step is to put on the doopydoo, but the t-tracks will cover the only holes thru which the light can be seen...
Short of turning it into a pipe barrel, what can I do to fix this?
I guess I can just shave off the bottom left track (the one that doesn't belong) and hand-drill the row of holes and ream them out to the right size. Anyone had success doing this?
To make the conversion eligible for EIB you will have to remove that one track and drill out the holes. I haven't looked for them myself, but I am sure you can find some conversion threads here that have done that very thing. If it was me, I would mark the holes with a sharpie/pencil and then use a step down bit to slowly drill the holes to the correct size.
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Very nice after action report. Ordered mine earlier this week and they are out of stock at the moment. Two weeks and they will be back in stock, the website is taking orders though, so you can queue up.
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Most epoxies need a surface to bond too. Try roughing up the area that will be bonded with 100 or 200 grit sand paper.
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Looking good!
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Most foams are going to have a lot of open cells which will hurt the final look. You could go with L200 foam, it has smaller cell patterns (rigidity), but is tough to source and pricey. I think this is why leather or the secondary market here or on the MIPD site is he way most go for their TD's and HWT's.
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MTK on hand, build thread coming after I finish my blaster.
ATA, on the waiting list, thinking of going TD with that build.
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Is there not enough material in the scope foot to drill through? So you don't have the stray poking out the bottom?
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There is, but with a hole for the mounting screw, plus a hole large enough to not damage the wiring, you wind up removing enough material from the scope rail that its integrity could be compromised over time; even when accounting for the thickness of the counter bracket. I don't want to risk that.
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=======Since your skills are beyond mine. Is digging a channel in the underside of the aluminum braket an option? That way you can run the wire the length of the braket without seeing it.
Thank you for the compliment. Digging is an option, but there are two 24 gauge wires to pull, plus you would still be exposes going to the bottom of the scope for entry. Covering that work would still need to be done. My thought was ditch the channel in favor of the straw method to avoid structural issues.
I appreciate the input!
Doopydoo contact
in General Weapons Discussion
Posted
I get on order of 300-600 e-mails a day, nearly all of which require a response of some type. Due to this I may have a slanted opinion on this, so forgive the bias. If a customer takes the time to send you an e-mail, granted that it is not abusive, a response of some type should always be sent back within 1 business day of receipt of the communication. Customer service is paramount, no matter the scale of the business.