Koyaanisqatsi

I cut it out to what looked like the right shape, but now trying to join with kidney I see there are two 'wings' in the way (bottom tips). These don't follow the line of the kidney plate. The pencil line is roughly where I think I should trim more - am I right?

How is it best to 'size' or fit the torso and back pieces (back/kidney/butt and chest/abdomen) of the armor? Is there a method, or do you put the parts together with little-to-no gap and let the strapping stretch as needed? Basically, I'll take any and all advice on getting a good fit for the 'main body' part of the armor. (I have ATA armor and I'm 5' 9" / 170 lbs. if that helps.) Thanks!

I am looking into getting a new bicep, and probably going to get a second right one (I messed up the left). The rights just fit better 'out of the box'. I'll probably wait until I have most of it together - may use the existing bicep for basic approval. However, if I can't find wide boots (10E) that are acceptable for EIB/Centurion, I may just not worry about it at all...

I checked out the links, and I'm really having a hard time finding boots in an E width. Everyone does D, but not E - has anyone else found E width boots or stretched out D's or anything? Help! Thanks!

Thanks - I was a little worried about that seam but not sure how far down the front is ok. I may end up going for EIB/Centurion, so I guess I'm stuck painting my own, or deciding not to go for the higher levels.

Imperial Boots can't do wide feet (10 E) they say, so I'm planning on going with Caboots because they will. Any issues with caboots from an approval standpoint? Hope to find out before I spend the extra $$. Thanks! Here's the pic from their site: --------------

It might be - it's in Everett, called "The Friendly Foam Shop". http://friendlyfoam.com True to its name, the guy who was there when I went was very friendly and helpful.

Unfortunately, on one bicep I cut all the sides to 7.5 mm before realizing it was way too small, so I had a gap to fill. I needed it on that one, so I did it on the other to match. Is something like that enough to prevent me from reaching Centurion rank?

Just wanted to share a cool foam I found - I'm sure many of you know it, but I'd never heard of it or seen it mentioned here. I have a foam store not far from my house and the guy there sold me on Ensolite. It's waterproof (i.e. won't absorb sweat), has almost 100% memory, and is super comfy! It's not super cheap - cost me about $3 sq. foot. I bought a piece that was about 1 ft. x 3 ft. for $10. It looks like this: I cut pieces (a little quickly maybe, but it's not permanent) and used foam glue to pad my helmet, and plan to use it for all my padding needs. Anyway, hope that helps someone...

Excellent advice - thank you! Smelly glue it is!

I could not do 15mm on both sides for the biceps. I did a 15mm on the 'outside' (the visible side) and a bigger strip (~30mm) on the inside. I haven't finished cleaning up the ends, but this is what it looks like. Am I going to have issues going for the higher levels? I can't help it I've got some guns... I really thought this was the way to deal with sizing...

So, E-6000 for the flexibility? I think I'm going to need some more clamps...

So I'm going with using webbing for my snap plates - it seems like it will have more flexibility and bend rather than break. I'm thinking of using CA glue to attach them. Am I crazy? Should I use E-6000? Any horror stories? FWIW, I'm using a snap tool (link below) to attach them. I see everyone using the hammer and punch and that seems way harder. Using the snap tool is really fast (takes maybe a few seconds total?). Is there any reason to use the hammer/punch method instead? Tool I'm using: http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-Heavy-Duty-Fastener-Plier/dp/B005BB5GYS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411793408&sr=8-1&keywords=vario+pliers Here are the first victims: Thanks! Ken

I find it helps to find a strong light source, get it in front of me, and hold the piece at an angle - move it around until you can really see the surface details the best. Then draw along the line between 'flat' and 'not flat' (you'll see what I mean if you haven't already). That's what I did with my ATA bucket. Not sure if it's necessary, but I used a hole punch in the top corner to help avoid tearing... You can follow my line if you like - it worked for me. This is my first helmet/build so I'm no expert, but it seems like you want to leave more rather than less (don't trim too much). When attached to the face and with the ears are on, no one will see this part, and if you trim too much you can't connect the face to the cap & back as easily - you need to make sure you have room for all three ear screws to go through.

I'm looking for a pair of TK boots - size 10 is what I normally wear, but I have a wide foot (American E/EE). Will these fit? Can they be made to custom fit?

Awesome - thanks for the info!

Does anyone use Velcro on the forearms? My hands are pretty big so I have a similar problem to the shins, but I do still have a little bit of return edge to remove, so that might do the trick...

I've read about using Velcro on the inside seam of the forearms and the backs of the shins instead of gluing them shut. How many of you did that or are planning on it? If you have done this, what kind of Velcro did you use, and what did you use to apply it? Thanks!

There do seem to be many ways of doing this, and there is a lot of info but of course it's all over the place. Here are the links I've saved so far: Original Strapping Thread http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26477-what-we-know-about-strapping-snaps-rivets-etc/ 3 Ways to Make Snap Plates http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20999-howto-make-snap-plates-3-different-ways/#entry259705 How to make snaps hold http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28934-howto-make-snaps-hold/ Bracket System for Sale (bracket method is for most authentic build) http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20859-accurate-anh-stormtrooper-strapping-brackets-v-20-now-available/

Roger Wilco! Thanks!

Quick question: Is that 1 1/2" elastic you are using, or is it more like nylon webbing straps? (like for a backpack)

Great advice - thanks for the picture, too! It's great to hear about those kinds of things that I really won't discover until after the armor is built. Is there a generally recommended brand of snap for the best quality? Thanks again!

Thank you! That was about what I was guessing, but glad to hear it straight.

I've been doing my research and I know there are different ways to do strapping (snap plates and brackets), but I can't figure out the pro's and con's of each - how do I decide which route to go? Thanks!

Great ideas and methods - thanks! I ended up just using some hot glue and fiberglass window screen for now - seems like something I could 'undo' if I wanted at some point.