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BadBatch

501st Member[501st]
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Everything posted by BadBatch

  1. TD-17105 requesting access, please. http://501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=20863
  2. I'm nearly assembled with my ANOVOS kit as an ANH TD (non-special edition) and have a trimming question on the rear of the legs. I can basically get around but stairs are my worst enemy. Is it still acceptable at higher level certifications to make the trims as indicated in this post from ~5yrs ago? I'd hate to do something at this point that might affect my options later, but at the same time would really like a bit more mobility. BTW: I'm 6' even and fairly solidly built. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/13822-peters-am-buildam/?p=171713
  3. Following with great interest. If the rest of the casting comes out as great as the first bits I'm definitely interested in a set! The T-21 is my favorite BFG.
  4. Yeah, you'd have a hellish time grinding down stainless ones. The aluminum ones you can do in about 30 seconds with a dremel and a grinding stone.
  5. In the end I had to ABS paste them in place, but here they are- The square of ABS with the shaved down Chicago screw (ignore the twisted placement this was before clamping and clean up AND before I redid them with ABS paste as glue) ----------- And after, remounted using the extra washers from the holster as well --------------- The E6000 just didn't have enough holding power and CA glue cracked away as the plate flexed. ABS paste FTW!
  6. Without trying to appear judgmental, If I threw up a pile of fresh ABS paste on an Ab Plate, it would still look better than this monstrosity. (and, please do keep in mind that I'm trying my very best to be polite about my opinion here.)
  7. Will do, I should know tomorrow once the E6000 sets up.
  8. The holster screws are the ones I'm using. I ground the backs flat and cut off a bit of the length. With the ABS anchor that is holding them to the rear of the belt plate and the ABS inside of my belt itself they didn't need to be trimmed down too much* *I hope I'm not cursing myself here, as I haven't done the final fitting, but having sized everything up I think I took about ~2mm off both the male and female sides of the screws. They are aluminum, so they're not too hard to cut/grind down.
  9. Bolding mine- I had exactly the same thing. Eventually I just ground down the back of the rivets, removed the belt and am reattaching the plastic via some very small Chicago Screws to the newly re-enforced belt (I unstitched one end and some velcro and slid a full-width strip of ABS shower surround in, then restitched the belt).
  10. ANOVOS- ANH, Stunt: sorry I thought I had that in the title.
  11. Roger that. Pro-tip style question, then. Is it allowable to have the backside of the forearms close with velcro hidden under the cover strip? Because if I trim the return edges to fit the cover strip there is NOOOOOOO way on Earth that I'm getting my meathooks through that wrist opening.
  12. While I know the ideal is that the front flat section under the front cover panel would IDEALLY be trimmed so that it does not extend out from behind the cover- is some extra material allowable? I know that many peoples answer will be "Just do a wider strip in back" but I'm specifically asking if some extra is allowable in front, and if so, how much. Any help would be appreciated.
  13. I took out a bit of the lopsided frown with some jewelers files. It was the work of about 15min. Makes all the difference in the world. I still wanted it wonky like the originals, just not QUITE as wonky as delivered. I also sanded off a lot more of the edging that was left on the eyes (not touching the bump on the right eye, of course). Just a word of warning to anyone disassembling their buckets for any reason: I was taking mine apart this morning to alter the angle of the faceplate (I'm turning mine into a Sandy), and as I was disassembling it I ran into one ear which was glued at the bottom. This wasn't the silicone/E6000-like glue that holds the S-seal on the neck. This was most likely superglue. The first ear came of a treat, when I went to remove the second one I almost ripped it apart. the whole bottom edge of the ear was glued to the rim of the helmet. That took about 30 min to jimmy a knife through. It was probably to aid in aligning the other side after the first had been lined up, but it came as a shock.
  14. Someone mentioned that if you froze a superglued joint you can crack it apart, although I cannot personally attest to this.
  15. Hopefully the faceplate and dome aren't glued. Or if they are hopefully it's an E6000 sort of glue rather than ABS cement. I'll most likely need to adjust mine for my Sandtrooper.
  16. They look the same size to me. I think it's the very harsh top-down lighting that is making them appear bigger, as the shadow on the indent/curve adds visual weight.
  17. Correct, As the seam runs down the front and then turns off to the inside. The only seams that should be present on these boots are at the sides (under the elastic) and on the rear. The seam on the front would pass for basic 501st approval, but you'd be limited to Level 1 Certification and basic FISD status (no EIB or Centurion).
  18. if you look at these they have a seam down the top half of the upper. So while they'd work for basic 501st approval they wouldn't do for Level Two 501st Certification, nor for EIB/Centurion status.
  19. I, too, am glad to see screw-in HOVIs, as fitting them with speakers is my goal as well. Great minds, I guess.
  20. With prototyping ANYTHING there can be hiccups. Perhaps the PVC company couldn't make what they said they could. Maybe after the pulls it was determined that to get crisp details the material would have to be too thin, or it ended up to brittle? Any of dozens of different possibilities could have arisen. ANOVOS might just have made the announcement too early. Or maybe they really did just get too many emails complaining about the switch. Who knows. The first pics of the prototype in black look nice and crisp, and that's a good thing.
  21. The pulls for the Shadow Trooper look quite nice as well. I am sure that I'm not the only one anxiously awaiting pics from SDCC!!
  22. I tend to agree, but let's face facts. A license COSTS money, and if they've just laid out for said license they probably want to tout the fact that they are 'legit' in the eyes of the true evil empire (Disney). My hope is that ANOVOS knows that their TK offer is going to be the make-or-break for their company and will be making decisions accordingly. A crappy pull/moulds or bad plastics will probably doom them with this many pre-orders. There is nothing like thousands of either angry or SUPER HAPPY reviews to either send a company into the toilet or, alternately, the stratosphere.
  23. It was dumb luck on my part- my wife had booked the trip about 7 months ago and wasn't even aware that it was SWW- thank goodness it was though, we're not uber-Disney people, so all the Star Wars goodness filled in a lot of cracks. I think we went on Star Tours about 9-10 different times. LOL! It really is a cool time, it's weird to see SOOOO many SW tshirts all at one time and in one place. My tshirt was a big hit (needless to say)
  24. Sweet! Fantastic work on the camo paint job, btw. Really tight.
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