Freak Nasty Fester

I was trying to assemble them the same way as my clone shins. They work just fine, bu aren't as tapered or formed to the leg muscles. Would anyone be willing to post pics of either the Velco method or the hook and elastic method?

Just wondering if any other troopers have large calves and how they went about constructing their shin armor. If I size the two pieces together to get the proper look and 7/8" finishing strip in the front, I can't get my foot and leg out of the armor. If I go the other way so I can get my foot out, I have monster wide calves in armor. I'm up for suggestions. Do I go with the finishing strip in front, but a fake one in back so that I can clamshell open them and seal them with velcro? Thanks!

OK, I'm going to contradict myself a little here. After writing the above post, I started working on my thigh pieces and ran into a potential snag. See, I have some big ol' Jerome Bettis type thighs and if I want to keep the 7/8" finishing strip width in front (I can't I need to bump it up to 1") I have to have the thigh backs touch in back with no overlap. Seriously, I am cutting off absolutely nothing off the back. So, an interior shim might be needed in back to guarantee strength at that joint.

Guys, I've followed the same process as with my clone. Clones don't have finishing strips or seams so it can be a real pain in the rear end as you have to Bondo and then sand like mad at the butt joints. Basically I get the two pieces to where the taped together sub-assembly feels comfortable on my arm and then create a joint cut on both pieces. I do this by creating a common line at the overlap and then separating to cut individually. THen I bring the two pieces back together and check fit on my arm as well as if the two cuts line up without spaces, etc. Only then do I glue. I'm using a CA glue with activator so the set time is minimal. I used the same adhesive on my clone. In neither armor set did I use two shims (internal only on a clone due to no seams as mentioned earlier.) With the results from the clone, I am not using both an internal and external shim. I will try to post pictures later to illustrate.

Closer up shot The other side:

I could use some help on my helmet. One side looks great. The ear lined up....everything great. I get to the other side and everything went to the dogs (not meaning to offend any dogs presently building armor.) I tried redrilling holes and that didn't help. The existing holes were pre-marked dimples from the AM 2.0 kit. Any input would be awesome!

Mercury, I'm building a NE helmet right now (also fighting with the one ear) and have the front screwed to the back/cap sub-assembly. However, I found that it still moves a little at the eyebrows and will probably put a small amount of glue at that joint.

I have had a lot of fun with this build though as at TK/TD is soooooooo different than a clone and I'm learning a ton. Snaps are awesome. Wish I had used them on my clone!

PM sent to Mighty Tank

Tupperware. I asked earlier and was told you are one in the same. Are you a team or totally unrelated?

Not really shooting for Centurion. I'll try for MEPD, but not trying for SWAT which I'm guessing is the MEPD equivalent. Mostly this is just for fun and is my stress relief.

I've emailed questions on the two left shins and on the helmet, but have not heard anything back so I'm not going to hit him with another. I'm pressed for time, but also trying to be respectful as I'm guessing this shin issue has him scrambling....

Same situation here. It should be three large circle that goes in the same spot as the detail with four medium circles. I'm not seeing a separate piece though.

Mike, do you have a picture of the three button ab detail for Sandie's that came with your kit? I've dug through my AM 2.0 kit from TK Tupperware and can't find one.

Starfox, can I possibly get a copy of the instructions as well?

OK, things progressing nicely except for having two left shins, but I contacted the vendor on that. Now struggling with the ear piece on one side of the helmet. Sounds like this is a common occurrence for the NE helmet.

Thanks!

Is TK Tupperware the same as Mighty Tank? ust curious as I'm building TK Tupperware's AM kit and might have the same shin issue.

Thanks for all the info guys! Things are progressing nicely, but now I am trying to remember where I saw someone post about which edges you should leave a return edge on and where you shouldn't. Can anyone direct me to the right link? I've looked at some many build threads that I cant find it again.

I'm working on an AM kit now too. ALso made the mistake of cutting out the small teeth so if someone has a "recipe" for the slurry, it would be awesome. Also, my helmet is a little jacked to one side. I drilled exactly through the dimples in the plastic, but it looks messed up. Any thoughts? Redrill new holes on the side with no gap between the eyes and brow?

Hi all! 2125 from Michigan here and I'm working on a AM kit from Tupperware TK and running into some questions as I fit up items, particularly with butt joints. I'm hoping someone can help show me the right path. 1.) Is there a RH inner and outer forearm or are the two firearms interchangeable? If there is a RH/LH how do I tell the difference? 2.) Is there a size chart for the finishing strip widths that makes them the same width as the movie? Is there a difference between TK and TD on the widths? 3.) Do you round the corners of the finishing strips or leave them straight and sharp? 4.) Bolt the helmet together or rivet or glue? Thanks!