Elumusic

The HIPS shipment was delayed to Grainger by a week...finally got it yesterday. Two weeks to wait for a piece of plastic that came from one state over. pfffft. I'll definitely hit up your guys Gary!!! I got .093 HIPS because the draw on the mold is almost 12". I hope it works. I will cut the sheet down into 24"x24" squares either tonight or tomorrow night so it fits onto my table. I have had nothing but issues to deal with for the past two weeks not to mention I have had a sinus infection for 6 weeks. OMG!!! I couldn't take it any more and finally got antibiotics yesterday. Our business partner is quitting. We own a fairly well known donut shop (It's been on the food network). My wife and I had to stop everything and pick up the financial pieces and get information to the lawyer to finish up the paperwork, we put a new computer together to get down to our second shop to do financials, Computer problems at the house, Comcast stopped supporting our cable modem. One day it was working fine and the next they said it was at it's end of life and stopped supporting it and no more internet until I spent another $130 for a new modem. (I hate Comcast) Still need to hook it all up and I have a recording session this Friday. I tell you guys...nothing but issues. Hopefully Saturday calms the heck down. That's my rant....

I hit up the only local plastic supply place here, Port Plastics. They were not at all helpfull. Too busy to even think about trying to get me a deal on some plastic. They wouldnt get me a partial and only wanted me to buy a full flat and pay all the shipping. At that point I might as well just go to Grainger. Yup, it was a little pricey but this is my experimental stage. The only other place would be to call Denver and get a shipment delivered to the local Reprographics shop. But they didn't have HIPS at the time and I didn't want to keep waiting. You would think that Albuquerque would be a place where you could get things like this....but not so much. I have always had to order materials on line, software, hardware, etc. Albuquerque is a really big "small" town. It's frustrating. Anyway, the HIPS is supposed to be here today and I will try a few more pulls this weekend and hope it goes well.

Hi Cristian, I think that being accurate to the film is not exactly what I want. I more want symmetry. And I know you are correct about the shoulders, chest and back are way off, but knowing that now, I can proceed with a new sculpt. I like the butt joints on the AM armor and I like a lot of other things about the AM armor. I also like that the AM armor can be modified for small, tall and large people, so for now, I am going to finish up this helmet mold I started and get my first pull done and put together and than start with the costume molds. I will create something a little different than other people have done, and I will make sure that it can be modified to be acceptable to the 501st. But my first concern is the art pieces I intend to do with it. That's what started this whole thread. I'm just waiting on the HIPS sheets to come in from Grainger and I will pick it up and test my mold.

All good information. Vern...you are all over the ins and outs of these kits and I appreciate all the input. The only reason for this AM armor is to make sure I have basic details in view. I'd love to know which details to avoid. To me some of the suits look the same. So I suppose I should take each piece out of the box and inspect it against the film stills and take some notes. I did notice that it appears to go together a little differently than other fan sculpts. But I have seen many people mod the AM armor to fit small framed people and it looks great. But I am not the expert, far from it. So I'm asking for body proportions vs the AM kit. The AM ABS suit is a super deep draw, but is it also an oversized sculpt? If I use it as a visual reference is it going to screw me up as long as I keep in mind that mine will be no where as deep? Give me some advise guys.

This is good to know. So what proportions should I be aware of. Besides the depth of these pieces which I kinda figured is over the top.

So a few weeks ago I found an NE helmet and armor kit on eBay. It was black NE armor with all the papers being sold by a guy who was getting rid of some of his collection for cash. The suite was still in the box. I had been asked by a few people if my build was to scale to which I really didn't know because I had nothing to compare it to. And since I want to build an entire suite I felt I needed some practice and hands on knowledge of all the parts and pieces I will be creating and I want my stuff to be to scale. I had asked other armor makers to see if I could get my hands on an actual kit, but everyone is months and months out. I really don't have months to do this, I need to get something going sooner than later. So unfortunately I freaked out a little and purchased the ebay suite for $540. Don't know if it was a good or bad deal. My thought on this was if I am going to create something of my own there is no better way than seeing an acceptable suite in person, being able to touch it and see how the materials were formed. And from what I read, the NE armor is widely acceptable by the 501st. So right after I use it to compare my pepikura models and sculpts I intend to build the NE armor for my own personal use. So far I have my son and graphics partner willing to put in some time on the paper models and or wood based models depending on what they can do. We have a plan. So what I don't like about the NE armor is the three piece helmet design because, bottom line is a three piece helmet is not screen accurate and seems like a huge pain to build, but I am ecstatic about the fact that my pepikura helmet is nuts on as far as scale and shape. Besides mine being symmetrical, it is exactly the same size and scale. I will post pictures as I build the NE helmet in a separate thread. It should be interesting.

I actually finished the heating table as well. Here are the post positions located on the Hardibacker. I did an Ohm calculation but it wasn't getting hot enough. So I started shortening the length of the coils until I could get 400 degrees F out of the table on a single 20A/1P circuit. ABS melts at about 320 degrees F. So it only has to sit on the oven for about 4 or 5 minutes before it starts to sag. Walt....can you tell me how long before it starts to burn and bubble?

I started with a face casting this weekend for my wife who is going to do some "day of the dead masks". She needed a face mold and I needed to try something smaller before I got myself in trouble with a full bust... Here are a couple pics. Nothing fancy about this. I used some prosthetic grade Alginate and some plaster bandages to hold the Alginate steady while I poured the plaster into the mod. I got two face molds out of it before it disintegrated. So hopefully time permitting and health permitting (i have a man cold) I will put the bust into motion.

Ok...I bought a sheet of HIPS to try out. Pressure is on.

I'm doing a "C/D" cup casting. Finding a middle point that might work for both but doesn't look "top heavy".

Yup. Because of my determination on this I went ahead and paid $61 a piece plus shipping for .090 white ABS smooth on both sides for a stupid 24"x 48" piece just so I can try this out. I am super bummed about the cost and I have exhausted my search and I don't want to have a crappy styrene pull because the material is just not very strong and resilient, not to mention the color is off. So Walt...If you can see clear into letting me purchase some of your stock after I get this next pull successfully completed I would be grateful. We are working on a female torso live casting this weekend to start a female trooper chest plate mold. I am determined to do some fun stuff with this.

On another note...I am doing a living mold this weekend for a female chest piece. I will provide some tasteful pictures of the process on this string. In the mean time...I am having a really hard time trying to locate white ABS, smooth on smooth, .09 to make the helmet work. I had some haircell material that was smooth on one side, but the haircell pattern is distorting the smooth side. Locating smooth on smooth is turning out to be very difficult unless I am willing to buy 2000 lbs of the stuff...which I am not.

I tried signing up...and got no response from the forum administrator. So I am unable to post anything.

Yeah...new sculpt...it's in the works. I still need to solve the issue of not finding the smooth on smooth ABS before I can even think about a new armor sculpt. If I can get the helmet to come out then I will get right on that. I posted some status updates on the Albuquerque helmet build but so far I am not getting what I want. Seems that obtaining the correct ABS is going to be the main issue unless I purchase a whole flat of white smooth on smooth ABS. I can get smaller pieces for $61 each...24"x48"X.09", but it's hard to swallow when I can get a 4'x8' for $31.00. But I have to order at least 100 sheets. So yeah....armor sculpt.... I am pulling a live sculpt of a woman's chest to create a female version of the chest piece this weekend. It's really about priorities.

You don't want to see the pics...it wasn't pretty. the first pull came loose from the frame and the second also tried but I managed to get a good vacuum on it regardless. Already threw them out. I was beyond frustrated and disappointed and the whole picture thing didn't even register...but beer...beer registered. So that's what I did instead.

This was a combination of two separate pepikura models. I mixed the top of one with the bottom of another. I can send you the models if you pm your email.

Did my first pull this weekend with 1/8" ABS. Unfortunately it was way too thick to get any detail and it didn't like the small crevices in the mask. The good thing here was there was no webbing even with the flip table design. I'm trying to locate some .096 or .08 locally.

I hear you guys. And I want to remind everyone that I created my helmet mold from scratch. And it's pretty darn accurate but it is not exactly screen accurate because I left off the imperfections of the originals. It's more about the nuance of the costume as a whole. Bottom line is I have enough drive, knowledge and ambition to create anything I want without the need to steal. And the only reason I have posted my thoughts and shared my sculpt is because of my belief in what the 501st does for charity and other things. But the issue with any of this, regardless if you make leather components, guns, molds, etc., is that it's a hobby and depending on the drive and ambition of those involved can make money or can be just for pleasure. To nail someone as being dishonest because they have stolen their product and is re-selling something they didn't create is one thing that I agree with, but to say to anyone that they shouldn't create something with the intent to sell it is ridiculous when everyone on this site has bought, sold or created unregistered costumes, weapons and accessories. Without everyone doing what they do, the 501st would simply not exist. The Charity would not exist and Disney/George Lucas Films would not have access to their supporting fans. And depending on what place in the world you live, it may not have any legal strings attached. I do want approval from the members of the 501st and the Star Wars fans and I do not want to step on toes, but regardless, I have a need to create what's in my head and put it on display and enjoy what I do. My Storm Trooper build is only a fraction of what is in my head. I as many others, have created a pepikura mold because of my love for Star Wars and a childhood dream to have one of my own because I grew up doing without. Yes, I spent more on making the mold than I would have simply buying a helmet and recasting it, but I had a great time doing it. It gave me a creative outlet, pleasure and it gave me a medium for the artwork I intend to do with it. Yes, I am going to sell my artwork to as many people will buy it and probably donate some of my income to charity because that's what we do and it will not be illegal because of what I plan to do with it. Everything I do will fall under the fair use laws. So regardless if I re-vamp a recast of a recast or create my own armor molds from scratch, my drive an ambition is purely based on acquiring a basis for my art. So now that I understand what some members approve of or disapprove of, it gives me a starting point and that's what I wanted to know. I appreciate everyone's input on the subject.

Yeah, I'm doing the oven portion of the vacuum table build this weekend. Already have the wire, table, hardibacker, etc. Good thing I have engineering experience on electrical so I shouldn't blow myself up. I'll post pictures.

I guess the first thing I need to see is how much of a pull I am going to get with two and then if too much try just one. If I still don't get what I need I will install a ball valve to regulate the flow. For now it's balls to the wall.

You guys are awesome...I appreciate the input. I will be looking at some armor molds very soon.

Hey Walt. I'll let you know how it comes out. They guys at the plastic shop sent me home with some 1/8" ABS because the said the helmet size is tall and will require a deep draw. They gave me some scraps to experiment with. The vacuum source on this will be dual (2) vacs. One is a shop vac rated at 5 HP,130 CFM and the second is a Dyson Animal with 250 Airwatts, 12 amps. They will run in unison.

Exactly my point. They are so way off that it would be better to start from scratch. But I would have the basic parts and pieces that could be modified to be correct. Using a pepikura model that someone else created is also re-casting someone else's work but as it is being sculpted it is being modified. I did this with the helmet mold I am finishing up. But it's the same thing right?

Yes Derrek this is true, but I have to say I get stolen from every day musically. Illegal downloads, etc. But nobody can take my music and make it theirs because of the copyrights that were provided to me by the law. Storm Trooper armor remakes are not protected unless you are licensed by Disney to produce it. It's all black market. But I am authorized as is everyone else, under the Fair Use laws to make original artwork even if it's using a recognized trademark so long as I make it original enough that it can be considered art and not a copyright or trademark violation. Musically people who create parodies from well known works are also protected.

Agreed guys, but think about getting permission for a re-cast. With whom do you discuss permissions? A re-caster doesn't usually advertise who the original artist was so how do you get the permission?? I agree with not recasting any product without the permission of the original artist because it's stealing. So...what I am saying here is that re-casters who do a crappy job have lost every bit of detail. There is nothing left to work with except the basic shape of the mold. It would be a complete re-design. It's not stealing, it's not taking credit for someone else's work and if a true artist was to start with a recast of a recast and build it from the basics to full glory it is now their work. There's actually a legal name for it and it's called "Fair Use". And if it's legal, then why would anyone even think that someone should not get credit for returning something to full glory or making an original out of a re-used piece of garbage.