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netslave

501st Member[501st]
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Posts posted by netslave

  1.  

    Yes it will, unless someone can prove to me it doesn't meet the following requirements

     

    Thermal Detonator

    For 501st approval:

    • (A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt.
    • Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint.
      • The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end.
    • The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap.
    • The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm).
    • The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide.

     

     

     

    Exactly. It doesn't meet EIB+ but for basic, there's no reason to say what we see wouldn't pass basic approval. GMLs shouldn't be making new applicants meet 2nd and 3rd level requirements just to be approved. 

    • Like 2
  2. I'm not too worried about anything I've seen. Getting excited for the build. 

    1) the TD is acceptable per the CRL for basic, and can be changed for higher levels. 

     

    2) The belt/holster, small patches behind the open holes on the belt will be just fine. Even if there were holes, there's nothing in the CRL that says holes can't exist. Only that there are a max two attachments. But still, patches will be fine and won't even be noticeable. 

     

     

    To put it in perspective: 

     

    We have troopers walking around with 4-5" wide gaps between the ab and kidney plates, a couple of 1mm holes in a belt shouldn't stop anyone from being approved. 

    • Like 3
  3. Have you tried out a triangular shape for the cape? To me it looks like one corner is attached a little bit off an edge over the right shoulder and the edge around the neck and hanging down along the right arm is one and the same. The two other corners are at the right knee and at the left foot. To me with your pattern there is too little fabric at the left arm.

    I'm just barely starting. I plan on taking an old sheet, wrapping it around my wife in costume, pinning it in place, and cutting it to shape. But I'll start a new thread on that when I do. Just offering a possible starting point. 

  4. For the cape shape, here's what I'll be starting with. After playing around with a black series TK and a napkin, I think it's pretty close to this.

     

     r90ifa.jpg

     

     

    2i8vcqv.jpg
    So the longer side is roughly the same height as the trooper, and then cut the shorter side to match where it should lay about knee height. With a contoured cut around the neck area.

    • Like 2
  5. Hello! I am currently building a phasma and plan on converting my TFA Stormtrooper.

     

    Is it possible to start the CRL writing up the CRL for phasma.

     

    Here is what would need to be written differently compared to the TFA TK

     

    Helmet

    Cape

    Handguard plate 

    Droid fingers

    Cod Piece

    Shin Cover

    Suede Chelsea Leather Boots

    Leather Gloves in black

    Boot plates

    The knees seem to be upside-down compared to the TFA TK. Check the D23 and Vanity Fair photos and compare them to the TFA TK's knees. 

  6. Bottom line, it will cost a LOT more to make your own armor from scratch than to buy a kit. This is an expensive hobby.

    But there are a lot of other options that may work out better. You could throw together a pretty good jawa or sandperson costume for less investment. It may not meet the 501st standards, but it would be a masked character and people love it. I have a non-approvable jawa.

    Might even befriend a local 501st member and see if you could borrow a set for the premiere. 

  7. My wife had a resin Scout Holdout blaster that she's dropped a few times getting it in and out of her holster and parts have broken off. I have two doopy e11 kits waiting for me to build, but I'm not sold that they will end up being my forever trooping weapons do to the fact that I've heard their resin may be more brittle than others. I can't verify that though, but you can but it together pretty solidly. Just be careful. 

    I DO highly recommend a hyperfirm though. I have a hyperfirm DLT-19 and it's indestructible. I love giving it to little kids to hold for a picture and not have to worry about it. Even their B-grades are awesome. 

    So my recommendation, get the doopy, and make it centurion level but keep it safe, then buy a Hyperfirm B Grade E-11 for trooping. Or Just buy a centurion level Hyperfirm and be done. 

  8. Burninate the armor!

    I'd say just trim conservatively until you're happy with it. try and maintain as much of the return edges that you can and if you have to trim more, you always can later. Way easier to take plastic away than to add it back. 

    For the helmet, make sure you do plenty of test fits as you go.  And test fit the ears a lot to make sure your seams are hidden behind the ears. If you trim the dome part too much before getting an idea of how the ears will fit, you may regret it. 

     

    • Like 1
  9. Guys keep my name in your friends..I am going to suprise you all with something soon regarding E11 Blasters. Mark in UK.

    Just sick if DD's lack of response, numbers and emails that aren't ever answered etc. This will change guys and gals. Don't mean to sound arrogant which is not me..I just want to help fellow brothers and sisters out there and try and better things a little.

     

    Good to hear. Sign me up when you're ready to reveal. :)

  10. A TK or similar costume doesn't have the problem that a TB or TS does. There's a lot of airflow that an aid in coong with a TK. Hydration is key, yes. But sweating only works to cool your body when it can evaporate from your skin. This is why moisture wicking material for an undersuit works well. If you can't allow the sweat to evaporate, all you're doing is losing water. Drinking cold water to cool off is a great way to cool your core, but you'll eventually sweat that out too.

    My whole idea up there is for helping a TB or TS with their woes, and to limit the actual NEED to sweat as much. Or with the air flow tubes, aid in the evaporation of that sweat so it's more effective.

    If the water cooled system worked well enough, there wouldn't be a lot of excess moisture to have to escape. The vest would be breathable, so, if you did sweat a lot, it would go into the same place your sweat always does, the fabric of the costume.

    As for removing the heat, that's where the waterblock, heat sink, and fans come into play. Both the TB and TS have backpack areas that allow for some hardware. We'd have to get creative to find a good exhaust port for the heat, but I think it's doable. Under the greeblies on the TB backpack or out the holes drilled into the circles of the TS backpack for instance. Maybe even repurpose the Thermal Detonator on the TK, but it would be tough to maintain screen accuracy. 

    I realize its a pipe dream, but I love tinkering so I'm just experimenting.

    I think that the best (and cheapest) option will be forced airflow into the suit. If you had small tubes running maybe to your arm pits, a couple around your torso, and one down your back, with the use of helmet fans as well, you'd feel a lot cooler, and it would aid constant hydration by allowing the sweat to actually evaporate a little. The only issue I see is carrying enough battery power to handle the system. I recently just bought a 12v 'squirrel cage' blower fan that can fit in the back of a TK, and it moves a ton of air. Install a couple of those and we're in business. Getting a nice breeze under the suit would be a great start to helping everyone stay cool.

    • Like 1
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