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Posts posted by Tolo
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I will send new pictures to get into the 501st. Had to many issues with my bucket (FX armor and helmet). So got in touch with AP and just finish my bucket today.
Will try to do all the mods necessary to become EIB. -
Did someone ever tried this kid toy? I found it on e-bay for 15$ with shipping. I don't know if it could actually help.
Eric
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Be sure to make the opening bigger to allow your head to fit easily. Keep in mind that you will need to put your head in sideways and then rotate it in place. If you make the opening nice and roomy, by the time you place the S-trim, it will fit just about perfect.
Besides, if you "mess up" and need to trim more away later, you will just need a new piece of S-trim. :-)
Thanks for answer Pete.
For the moment, if I put my helmet sideways, my ears are rubbing on the edge of my bucket. And my big nose...well I don't need to say more loll. So if I take off 1/2" on each side, I should not mess up the buckets look?
Eric
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Thanks for the help on removing the paint, I used 2000 grains wet/dry sandpaper and some turtle wax to shine it up lol.
So now I'm waiting for my S trim from trooperbay and my mike tips from Keith. But, I was wondering how much can I trim to fit my head in the bucket? When I will have the S trim on, I'm scared that I will not be able to fit my head inside.Eric
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Yes correct some use that method of a tooth pick, all you are really doing is trying not to scratch the abs, most of the time you will need a little bit of sanding. Good luck
Thanks Glenn, I will try it out!
Eric
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There are a few ways to remove paint, some use a toothpick, some a knife blade and some wet and dry sandpaper but you will have to go in stages from course to fine then polish to get the shine back again. I use small hand files on the corners of my teeth worked well for me. Keep up the good work, you will be finished in not time
Thank you for the help Glen.
Do you mean using a toothpick to scrape off the paint?
Thanks
Eric
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So I got the ear caps installed (my second set of ear caps might I say ). Started doing the paint and this morning, I notice that I really messed up my vocoder, picture to come soon. Question is; how can I remove my paint without damaging the ABS?
Thank you,
Eric
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When I got my FX I did not have it either ( my friend had lost it even before his built was done). So I got myself an AP. It's a tab whiter, but, it looks really good. You can always go and check out Troopermaster. He had a run of TD.
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On 5/15/2013 at 5:40 AM, Obey Wann said:
Here is the email I got on May 1:
I also got this description of what all the straps are for:
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I also got this pic showing helmet construction (see attached.)
I hope this helps.
Same thing that came with the AM armor.
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Thanks for the tip Pete, just did not get around to check out the bucket since saturday.
Eric
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Don't be surprised to see MRCE/eFX type helmet from now on...
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So I'm having a hard time getting my teeth "square". I tried using a file, but, it does not make a nice finish. I tried using my X-Acto knife, but I have a big blade on it. Should I just get a hobby knife to trim them of I am doing something wrong?
ThanksEric
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all you need to do to get a high brow is trim the helmet for a low brow.
then when you're assembling the faceplate, you cut about 1/4" off right at the chin area, leaving the ear area the same width.
trim the cap n back fully, and drill out all holes on the exact mounting locations. (leave the lower ear screw hole intact at this point)
then when mounting the faceplate at the cheek screws simply rotate the faceplate down, (the area where you cut the chin shorter will allow you
to fit your head inside. after you have created the brow height by rotating the face down you can drill the holes in the faceplate for the new
ear screw locations. start with the center screw on each ear and line up the face/cap n back and drill from the cap n back though the face.
use the cap n back screw holes as guides when the faceplate is mounted with your rotation. then drill out the faceplate at the proper locations
using the cap n back rotation as a guide.
this makes the entry hole smaller, thus the small trim on the chin area.
the other way:
the only other way to create a low brow is to cut the cap n back.
this can create a longer brow trim, so don't cut the rubber till you're ready to fit everything.
Wow, thanks Vern. You answered my other question lol. I wanted to know what can I trim to make my head go inside easier. It's a tight squeeze. If I compare to my FX, I can fit easily in it, plus have a sandwich in there in case I get hungry.
Thanks again everybody for you help.
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1/2" more on the brow should look good enough. FYI, the mic tips that come with AP kits are good enough for basic 501st approval but not for EIB & Centurion here at FISD. Looks like he still ships them out with sink/faucet aerators.
Thanks for the tip on the brow!
I've already got in touch with Keith for some Mike Tips. They still come with the faucet aerators. But, I don't think going higher that basic for the moment.
It looks like you still have some trimming to do around the teeth. Before you trim the eyes, which also appear to need a bit of trimming, I recommend comparing to some screen shots first.
Enjoy that AP helmet!
Thank you for the help and I'm already enjoying it!
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And the questions starts loll
Should I trim more on the teeth and eyes? And, I want to create ANH Stunt lid, how much should I raise my brow? I was thinking about 1/2" to 3/4"?
Thanks,Eric
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Hello Trooper world.
So I took my pictures for my approval, the ax fell and I have too much to do on my KFC FX bucket to even get my basic approval. I decided to get in contact with AP and got myself a new bucket! I have to say that Mark at Authentic Props is a class act guy. He help me a lot with advice and how to's. But, I will need help from the FISD crew too. I'm never sure of myself when I do something new loll, so I will be asking numerous questions here lolll.
Thanks in advance,Eric
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It does not sound easy...lol
Merci!
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Where'd you get those metal clips, they look very nice
I got mine form Vern on this thread. They look very good on my TD.
http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22546-ap-te-style-thermal-det-aluminum-clipsw-hardware/
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What adapter do you use on your Dremel to cut inside your pipe? I know for the circular holes you used a drill, but for the ejection port? If you did that with a drill, I will call you master for the rest of my life LOLLL
I'm a n00b in armor so imagine in blasters...
Merci d'aider un cousin de la Langue de Molière!
Eric -
Sure was. Actually, they still are. *If* you make the necessary mods. This went in to affect a few LMO's ago and was policy. Not sure it was changed since? It was really funny as at the time you need to add the correct number of ear screws, lenses, and tube stripes to the MRCE but the FX could get in unmolested.
It was also the case that the time you could get an MRCE for what - $90? A lot of people moved off of MRCE from FX for that reason. They look a bit funny straight-on, but were considered a big step up from FX and also had more room than ATA
I know with all the mods you can get it accepted now. But I did not know back then you could just get the bucket and it was cool.
I can honestly say that I can't wait to get the funds to change my FX KFC bucket for an AP!
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I'm maybe out of the subject here, but, was the MRCE and eFX bucket once accepted? I saw pictures of TK on the 501st website with these buckets on. And I remember noticing them at a comic-con too.
Eric
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I was the one who asked that question last week. Since your shim is an extension of your kidney plate, your rivet should be on your shim and not the kidney plate.
Eric
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and hopefully that pushes out some of the FX kits. But am I happy about their ways of doing so? Absolutely not.
If I could afford it, mine would be out lol.
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But this isn't an RS, it's a recast of it. That means NE used an RS to cast most of their parts and modified whatever they thought needed changing to make the parts bigger. I have seen untrimmed RS kits and they have LOTS of excess plastic on the parts so it wouldn't take much work to blend that in so everything looks bigger. It won't make any difference what anyone says about the origins of the NE suit because those who know can already identify it's a recast. Everyone else will not care as long as they get cheap armour. That is the way it has been for a long time now and it's people like this who are ruining the hobby in my opinion.
So why are they accepting the NE suit for EIB or Centurion if they are recast? So I could just get an armor from E-Bay and apply for EIB or Centurion? ( Don't worry, I will not do it lol)
Problème avec le derrière des mollets.
in Section Française
Posted
J'ai eu le même problème. J'ai utilisé du Velcro industrielle et le tout c'est réglé.
Est-ce que tes mollets sont un peu trop serré pour toi? Tu as toujours l'option de mettre une bande d'ABS pour agrandir ton mollet.
Eric