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coffintanker

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Posts posted by coffintanker

  1. 1. Don't laugh I used some webbing and clips from a dop collar, woof lol. The foam I cut slightly larger than the template and it holds by itself as the ridge and screw seem to hold it.

    2. Screws will work fine to hold it together, you can to make sure they don't come loose just put a little drop of superglue on the thread, you can still remove the nuts later.

    3. I have a couple of computer fans in my lid connected to 2 9 volt batteries and a switch next to my cheek, I have these mounted to the mic screws

     

    Keep up the good work :duim:

    Thanks for the info Glen. I've actually refered to your builds and centurion request quite a bit throughout this process!

    I like the feel and quality of the ATA lid and can't wait for the armor...

  2. In a word WOW, very nicely done, would love to have non shakey hands again LOL :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

    Nice work! :)

     

    Looks great!

     

    Great :duim:

     

    Thank you all!! Now that I'm approaching final assembly I have a few questions...

    1. I used a template I found on the forum for the original style padding but what can I use for chin straps?

    2. I'm considering keeping the screws and nuts instead of rivets to hold the two halves together, I like the idea of being

    able to disassemble the helmet if needed (for electronics/mods/repairs/the unknown)...any opinions/experience on that?

    3. Any favorites/preferences on fans for the helmet?

     

    Thanks in advance. The ability to refer to all previous builds and how to's has proven invaluable! I still have months to go

    before I get my armor (putting it together correctly seems overwhelming!) so I'm trying to get as ready for that as possible.

    I want to go centurion...so hopefully the helmet at least is on the right track for that.

    Thanks again, you guys rock!

  3. name='Oztrooper' timestamp='1357324851' post='283033']

    Great job with the paintwork :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley: ...What number size brush are you using ? I went with stickers on mine but I really like how yours turned out...I might hand paint my next bucket...or purchase one like Matthias suggests and keep it as screen accurate bucket that I display....

    [/b]

     

    Thanks a lot! I used a no name round tip brush (that I had to trim the hair and the handle) for the vocoder area and the teeth. For the trap areas I

    used a #4 red sable and for the outlining I used an xxs liner. The liner is from a set of brushes which are sized xxs-xxl instead of numbers. Here is a pic:

     

    50_zps44fe91b8.png

  4. Nice work with the painting!

     

    For the tube stripes I would use the brush to get the right kind of texture. With spray it gets "too good".

     

    Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

    Some nice lines there, must have very steady hands. As Mathias has said spraying the tubes would look too good, brush strokes would be so much nicer :duim:

    Thanks Guys! I'm going to try a few practice runs with the brush and see how it goes...

  5. Alright...busted out the brushes and started slinging some paint!

     

    First I lightly scuffed and cleaned the areas to be painted...

    31_zps24c301dd.png

     

    I started with the vocoder because you can rest the helmet on the table after and it doesn't come in contact with anything.

    27a_zps36961802.png

    28_zpscc27d494.png

     

    And then the grey areas...

    29_zpsc53ec33f.png

    23_zps9bfca1d6.png

     

    Here it is after the first coat...

    33_zpsc2570b72.png

     

    Next is a second coat and outlining the grey areas and adding the stripes.

     

    Still don't know how I'm gonna apply the tube stripes (brush or spray?).

  6. The teeth look much better. Here is a link to some tube stripes you can print then cut out and use as a template http://www.whitearmo...king-templates/ . I also would recomend building to EIB or even Centurion standards from the start, truly there is not that much extra work to do and as one who took this road and went from basic approval to EIB then to Centurion in under a week it was so rewarding. Keep up the good work :duim:

    Thanks Glen, I appreciate the help!
  7. that is impressive to nail that close one the first go. It will be personal preference but you can trim them down closer to the buck line and they will not have that "wavey" part around the outside from the moulds.

     

    I did not do that on my first build because I was worried about gaps so as soon as I got them flush, I stopped. Now I will take them down to the buck lines and they look great.

     

    It sounds like you are shooting for basic 501st approval with your build. I was in the same place when I started building my TK. I would encourage you to find that fine line between screen accuracy and living action figure. Keep a list of the Expert Infantry requirements close by during your build and check them off as you go. It is not hard to get if you start your build with EI in mind.

     

    I can tell you from personal experience that its a great feeling knowing you are one of a few hundred who have taken their build to the next level and earned that award.

     

    You clearly have patience so don't be afraid to have a go at hand painting your helmet. In the end it really does look cooler than the stickers and its one more thing to show off when people look at you suited up and their jaws drop. Good luck! post a TON of pictures bro. I'm re-living my helmet build through you right now.

    Thanks Isaac, once I drilled the bottom holes it changed the fit slightly so I had to trim some more. I got them to where I'm happy with it.

     

    As far as EIB, I think it's a great goal to set (maybe even centurion). I need to study the requirements further but I'm certainly up for the challenge!

     

    Hand painted details is definitely the way to go for me and i hope to be getting to it later today or tomorrow...

     

    Thanks again!

  8. Why would you not want to make it like the originals?

    I do in most respects, but a lot of them seemed to have been slapped together...(ear gaps, brow height) I guess it's the "idealized vs screen accurate" philosophy.

    But mostly it was wanting to make sure the integrity of the plastic wouldn't be compromised in that area. Your answer on that settles it, so I'll be filing away some more!

    Thanks!

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