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coffintanker

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Everything posted by coffintanker

  1. Here it is bolted together... And here's my first attempt at padding and original-ish style strap... Ok, now where's that armor...oh yeah, months away. ugh.
  2. Thanks for the info Glen. I've actually refered to your builds and centurion request quite a bit throughout this process! I like the feel and quality of the ATA lid and can't wait for the armor...
  3. Thank you all!! Now that I'm approaching final assembly I have a few questions... 1. I used a template I found on the forum for the original style padding but what can I use for chin straps? 2. I'm considering keeping the screws and nuts instead of rivets to hold the two halves together, I like the idea of being able to disassemble the helmet if needed (for electronics/mods/repairs/the unknown)...any opinions/experience on that? 3. Any favorites/preferences on fans for the helmet? Thanks in advance. The ability to refer to all previous builds and how to's has proven invaluable! I still have months to go before I get my armor (putting it together correctly seems overwhelming!) so I'm trying to get as ready for that as possible. I want to go centurion...so hopefully the helmet at least is on the right track for that. Thanks again, you guys rock!
  4. OK, I finally painted the tube stripes... Here are the pics: I took my time masking it off. I moved the tape a couple of times till I got it where I wanted it. Of course I cleaned the area first as usual. Then I began to lay the stripes down. 1st coat down strokes, 2nd coat up strokes... Also finished the stripes in the rear traps... Here it is all painted...finally!
  5. We'll see how it goes once I'm done. I still have to do those tube stripes and....wait...are you calling my helmet cheap?! Lol!
  6. Thanks a lot! I used a no name round tip brush (that I had to trim the hair and the handle) for the vocoder area and the teeth. For the trap areas I used a #4 red sable and for the outlining I used an xxs liner. The liner is from a set of brushes which are sized xxs-xxl instead of numbers. Here is a pic:
  7. Thanks, it's nice to know I can inspire hatred! Lol! I've been told I bring out the best in people... Thank you guys! I appreciate the kind words...
  8. Ok, next update: Applied second coats and began outlining... Here's where I left off... And the ears... Still have to do the back trap stripes and the tube stripes.
  9. Thanks Guys! I'm going to try a few practice runs with the brush and see how it goes...
  10. Alright...busted out the brushes and started slinging some paint! First I lightly scuffed and cleaned the areas to be painted... I started with the vocoder because you can rest the helmet on the table after and it doesn't come in contact with anything. And then the grey areas... Here it is after the first coat... Next is a second coat and outlining the grey areas and adding the stripes. Still don't know how I'm gonna apply the tube stripes (brush or spray?).
  11. Alright, so I reinforced the mic tip sockets by heating up some scrap ABS and gluing it in place as these areas seemed pretty weak. Then I went on to painting the insides of the cap and face... First cleaning with soap and water and then scuffing. Masking... Black primer... Satin black.
  12. Are there any templates for the tube stripes available for download? I know the placement should be about a pencil width down from the cheeck. But I am not sure about the actual size of the stripes themselves and is there a certain number of stripes per tube needed for accuracy? Any info is appreciated.
  13. Thanks Isaac, once I drilled the bottom holes it changed the fit slightly so I had to trim some more. I got them to where I'm happy with it. As far as EIB, I think it's a great goal to set (maybe even centurion). I need to study the requirements further but I'm certainly up for the challenge! Hand painted details is definitely the way to go for me and i hope to be getting to it later today or tomorrow... Thanks again!
  14. I do in most respects, but a lot of them seemed to have been slapped together...(ear gaps, brow height) I guess it's the "idealized vs screen accurate" philosophy. But mostly it was wanting to make sure the integrity of the plastic wouldn't be compromised in that area. Your answer on that settles it, so I'll be filing away some more! Thanks!
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