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Owen91

Member
  • Posts

    89
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About Owen91

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    LaFayette, GA USA
  • Interests
    My hobbies include reenacting and stargazing and trooping. I'm an English Major at Dalton State College who's also blessed enough to have a stable part-time job.

    And, you've probably never heard this one before, I'm sort of a star wars fanatic.

Standard Info

  • Name
    Owen
  • 501st ID
    89626
  • 501st Unit
    Midsouth Garrison
  1. I've replaced the original screws with flathead screws, I painted the heads white. These look much better and the white paint helps them to not stick out as badly. Next I will order the appropriate decals from Trooperbay, should take place here in a week or so when I get the money.
  2. Alright! I've been out to a few troops, and while I've really had a good time doing these events I still have a desire to go EIB. In a week or two I'm going to order a set of ESB decals from Trooperbay, as well as a few proper flathead screws to replace the current screws in the ears. Looking forward to earning that title!
  3. If you need tips/guidance with building your armour, specifically ESB or T/MC armour, let me know!

  4. T/MC is what I have and I love it. I highly recommend it! I'm 6 feet 175 pounds and the armour fit me without any special modification or shimming. You might need to do some shimming depending on how big around your limbs and torso are. I suggest you take a look around the forums here. If this is your first time building a TK you've got LOTS of research to do!
  5. Some quality time with a boxcutter and sandpaper will wear it down nicely! Check out my T/MC bucket.
  6. Hell's Bells! You're right, I'd never once noticed a physical difference between the decals of ANH vs. ESB. I thought the only difference was hand-painted versus ideal! And yeah, the screws are a flathead/philips combo, an Improv I made on the spot when I found the provided screws were not long enough to make it through the helmet. White paint will make the difference less noticeable. As for the decals, I'm going to have to fix those when the money comes up to do so. Man! I'm so close, too.
  7. Please let me know if there is anything else I need to present or if there's anything I should work on! Thank you!
  8. Blaster: No hengstler or power tubes on magazine, folding stock, 6 T grips. D-ring and correct style scope on 3/4" wide mounting rail.
  9. Grenade clips 1" wide, courtesy of Tray.. ESB Danter handguards, Nomex flight gloves...
  10. Shoulders/torso: Shoulder bridges glued in front... 3 Blue buttons, 6 Gray, side gaps about 1/2" wide or less, separate kidney/butt plate, no shoulder straps visible, biceps/forearms fully closed, canvas belt, proper ESB holster ...
  11. Armor= T/MC Helmet= T/MC Blaster= Doopy Doo Full Resin Kit Height = 6' 1" Weight = 175 Boots = TK Boots Canvas belt = Trooperbay Hand Plates = John Danter's ESB handplates Electronics= Smalltalk Amp with homemade headset from Ebay Neck Seal = Nikkimat Neckseal on Ebay Holster = Neo_Kerberos (Patrice) on FISD Helmet: 4 Bump Ears, painted on ear stripes. cheeks, tube stripes, and traps are decals. Green lens from Trooperbay Resin-cast Hovi Mix from Tray:
  12. I've knocked out the majority of the Doopy Full resin E-11 kit today, but I've hit a speed bump. I am absolutely clueless about what to do about the Scope rail. I'm interested in making one. I tried an ABS strip and that didn't work. What did you use? I'm building mine for ESB, so I think the main difference regarding the rail is the lack of the Hengstler mount. Thanks!
  13. Hi everyone! Might anybody know something about the durability of the Doopy Doo E-11 blaster? I've seen a few posts by members that hinted at their fragility and, having one on the way, it has me concerned. Is it sturdy enough to survive the unexpected? (grabbing hands, bumping into things, maybe even a drop/ etc.)
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