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Griffin-X

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Posts posted by Griffin-X

  1. Thanks! That's exactly the kind of info and opinion I was looking for. If I drop my resin blaster, it's busted for sure...how embarrassing! If I'm not mistaken, Hyperfirms are solid rubber, right? I was considering modding a Hasbro but really I don't want to invest the time. Unbreakable is what I need with two young kids pretending to be Luke and Leia trying to get away from the stormtrooper all the time. I'll contact Slavefive. That'll be money well spent. Thanks for the help! Very much appreciated.

    Anytime! Yep, they are pretty darn near unbreakable. I have dropped mine on concrete, wood floors, and tile (by accident of course) and it's all good. Lewis is awesome too, he'll treat you right. Hit me up if you need any help. :)

  2. I was asking your opinion in hopes you would contribute to a learning situation. I know I'll need a different blaster to troop with. I see you'd rather not be helpful so we'll just leave it at that and that's ok. I'll keep researching on my own and you keep on doing whatever it is you do here. Cheers!

    Hey there. I'd recommend the HFX Hyperfirm blaster. Slavefive (Lewis) makes these and they are very accurate, lightweight, and pretty awesome. He also does b-grade runs from time to time and they rock, too. At the end of the day, it's all good and blasters come in all shapes and sizes. My first was a cheap resin knock-off I picked up online. Then a Hasbro that I modded, still not too bad. Then I found Lewis's Hyperfirm blasters. They are wonderful and his service is top notch.

     

    Hope this helps! :)

    • Like 1
  3. On 2/14/2016 at 9:12 AM, TK5492 said:

    Just wanted to let you guys know Heston is the real deal. I purchased a 501st version blaster from him through Etsy. I bought the unpainted version so I could paint and detail on my own. I received it in perfect condition. Heston will go out of his way to make sure you are taken care of. Rest assured he will deliver on these blasters. Here is my finished version below in which I painted and utilized Germain's decals. Thank you to Germain as well for all his contributions to the blaster's design and offering the decals to the community.

     

    AH4proR.jpg

    Looks great!

    • Like 2
  4. Correct TK-2759, it is the one sold with the stunt armor from the For Sale section. I bought the armor because I have the exact same proportions as she does and not for the blaster, so I don't blame the seller for the current state of this blaster. She said that the blaster came from another seller off the boards so I've no clue who made this thing. Handling the thing, doesn't feel like rubber.

     

    Thanks Griffin-X, I'll look into Citristrip to remove the paint. I thought it would be as simple as sanding it down and repainting, but this sounds easier (probably). I think what happened with the original was it was poorly painted with latex-based paint and the clear coat made it worse. Some sources suggested using talcum powder but that also chances that the stickiness will return so I don't think that'll work.

    The Citristrip is pretty awesome and safe since it's not chemically based. I have used it to strip paint of an entire Tie helmet. The paint will literally scrunch up and soften. Then you can rinse it off and start over. Good stuff.

  5. Is it made of rubber or a similar material? May have been enamel instead of acrylic paint. Either way, there is a safe product called Citristrip that can be used to remove the paint. Then you can wash it and reapply the proper primer, then paint.

     

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  6. XTC-3D is really useless, to be honest. Tried some of it back when it first came out, it doesn't do anything but make the print glossy and won't do anything to mitigate the layer lines, horizontal solid infill lines or Z axis layer artifacts. It merely provides a glossy coat, which is something you can do with a can of krylon crystal clear for a tenth of the price, after sanding the part down. That XTC stuff is just a gimmick. If you want the real effect, print with ABS and give the parts an acetone vapor bath. It's dangerous and time consuming, but that's the only way to get the look you're going for since it melts the layers together on the outside to form a true solid outer shell.

     

    Printing with ABS for me is not an option, unfortunately, since the smell triggers headaches and is a major health hazard without expensive HEPA filter setups. This is especially the case when you have to frequently walk in an office with 7 or more printers running at once...

     

    The pictures up above are really close up to the part so I could get the shots of the revisions made on the scope, which is why you noticed the layers - those lines really aren't visible if you're just holding it at arms level or viewing it from someone else holding it. There's just some things you can't change about 3D printing, and that's definitely one of them.

    Again, not being critical but you asked for feedback. XTC-3D works very well these days and if done correctly, can eliminate the "zipper" effect. It's tricky stuff though. Check out my WIP thread as I have eliminated 95% of the lines with it. I also used the "acetone" bath trick on the smaller parts and eliminated the lines easily (28 seconds tops). And, the filament is PLA.

     

    But, both of these techniques are super time consuming and require lots of sanding and some contour filler (Testor's). The XTC-3D require the most to prepare it for painting. I'd prefer not to use it, that stuff stinks really bad, too! ;)

     

    I love what you are doing and the product looks sweet. Best of luck and thanks for offering these up! :)

    • Like 3
  7. Very nice Heston.

     

    In looking at the detailed pics, it appears that you can see the 3D "zipper" print lines on many parts (scope, body, barrel, etc.). Are you using XTC-3D or some other surface finishing technique? Or does the blaster look like a 3D printed model (up close)? I ask, because of the amount of time I'm putting into mine to eliminate this effect. I love 3D prints, but PLA models look like, well 3D printed parts. :)

     

    The 501st troops (at least many of us) like detail and authenticity, so that blasters and armor "resemble" their onscreen counterparts, and not a model or toy.

     

    Again, I totally love what you are doing and these are super affordable props. You have mad skills my friend! Keep up the great work! :)

    • Like 2
  8. I dig what you have done with the updates. Personally, the scope rail on mine is going to be silver. I know there are inconsistencies (as with most onscreen props), even the Wired photos show an end cap upside down. Those of us who do costumes can attest to little differences here and there, too (greeblies missing on some scouts, etc). It's just my preference to baseline it and silver is the direction I'm going with mine.

     

    However, the white option allows a customer to easily paint theirs silver, if so inclined. So either way I think your product looks nice man. Kudos!

    • Like 2
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