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  • Birthday 10/26/1966

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    Wellington, NEW ZEALAND

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    Outpost42 (prospect)

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  • DRT

  1. You mean like this Trooper Zero....? http://www.helstongunsmiths.com/shop/images/Picture-047.jpg
  2. Thanks Rolf, it's coming along quite well I think. Yes, I'm planning to hollow out the front sight or just make a new one from metal. Also need to source the T-Track and make a D-ring. Possibly drill out the scope and add lenses too. This kit was great, virtually no cleanup needed on the parts and from what I can see is more accurate/tidy than the SDS version.
  3. I used pre-formed mild steel strip 15mm wide x 3mm thick, you can get it in that dimension so there is no cutting or sharp edges to deal with.
  4. Hi, I've just about finished my 1st E-11 and used the DoopyDoos PVC pipe kit. I'm very impressed with the accuracy of the parts, the fitting and ease of assembly. Check out my thread here; http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=11185&st=0&p=139503&fromsearch=1entry139503 Cheers Dallas
  5. Good news there, well done The other thing to be aware of is that PVC itself (if you use that for the base pipe) is INHERENTLY resistant to paint adhering to it, and will therefore loose paint more easily than other materials. I'm thinking I may use Aluminium (Aluminum to many of you guys ) for my Trooping blaster and leave the PVC version for display only.

    Funny pictures

    A few of my collection...
  7. Good advice Panda... Never thought of using E6000 on resin, but then I've only just got hold of my 1st tube and not yet tried it out (bought for the AM Kit). Just one comment about sanding though....be careful how much you do and where as there is often a surprising amount of EXTREMELY fine surface detail in some castings. The kind of stuff that won't show up until you start to detail paint. Save as much as you can, if you go down the road of dry-brushing etc... you'll be glad you did! Check my Blaster build post for example. no sanding prior to etch primer. Yes, there are a few bumps and pinholes to deal with (but that's just me being impatient!) Just my $0.02 btw, sooooo great to be able to share all this sort of stuff, both ways on here. I've picked up so many tips in the last week my head is spinning! Cheers to all....
  8. **** UPDATE *** ...still finessing the paint job. Pistol grip now blacker and polished (as Bakerlite), powdered graphite rubbed on highlights and flat surfaces, then dry-brushed again! Also polished the grip with auto wax (hey, why cheat something if you can do it for real!) Nice effect to get some more variation in the colours, the black of the grip against the gunmetal, subtlety is the key, need to get some more "grime" into the crevices too.......anyway, looks better in the flesh. Hard to photograph properly For anyone wondering, the REAL key to realism is DEPTH. Get those (thin) layers on and mix up the shades, highlights, gloss levels and textures. Will need to have the finish "fixed" using a fixing lacquer spray of some kind. Research required...... Again, plenty more pics here; http://www.flickr.com/photos/dallaspoll/ BTW, big ups to Casey at Doopydoos for the brilliant castings !!!!! (Plug, plug)
  9. Thanks ! BTW, I'm following YOUR AM TK build as reference for mine (when it finally gets here).
  10. Thanks again for all the comments. I'll try to answer your questions; Yes, the "wear" is DRY-BRUSHING. Silver over black. Filler used is "MILLIPUT" - awesome stuff, 2 part epoxy putty which works like clay (you can even use water to smooth it out) and then sets rock hard in a few hours (best to leave overnight). I also use an excellent 3M product called "Acryl-Green Spot Putty" (and Acryl-Red) for small, shallow holes etc.. it's an automotive product for fine finishing work. Very fast drying, thin with acetone. As for the painting the general idea was to achieve a faux "PARKERIZED" effect, rather than a painted look. Let's face it, firearms are not usually painted (except some scopes). They are usually blued or Parkerized. I therefore wanted to keep the thickness of the paint to a minimum. (Okay, maybe not screen accurate for ANH but my aim is to have a "real-world" blaster). Undercoated with a thin etch primer (grey) and then all the "hard to reach" areas were brushed black before the whole thing was sprayed with a sandable black primer ("Plasti-Kote" brand). This leaves a nice thin, even coat without overdoing it while trying to get in all the nook & crannies. All too easy to do. There are no real "paint chips" because it's not supposed to look painted. Instead I used Dry-Brushing to pick up the remaining texture of the "metal" and the wear areas like corners and edges. And when I say "dry" brushing, I mean DRY. Many people fall into the trap of overloading the brush. It should be dipped (Humbrol Silver Enamel in this case) and then SCRUBBED hard on a cloth until it FEELS dry. You will want to have dedicated brushes for this because it wrecks them for anything else! Then lightly brush starting with the heaviest wear areas and moving around as the effect diminishes. Practice makes perfect I've overdone it in the pics above, but will take the whole effect down a notch and post an update soon. Think I'll also give the scope a painted and chipped effect too. Cheers!
  11. The issue is that the parts will no doubt have a residue of MOULD RELEASE which must be removed. There are many different types of release used but they all have the same benefits for the caster (eases extraction of the cast part & increases mould lifespan) and the same procedure for removing it from the parts, which is thus; Soak/scrub in a DEGREASING LIQUID using an old toothbrush. There is a lot of info online about different brands, just google it. Even "SIMPLE GREEN" works ok and is kinder on your skin. Next, rinse well in WARM water (hot may soften and warp small/thin parts) and THEN soak/scrub with dishwash liquid detergent in warm water to remove the de-greaser. Rinse well and let air dry (you can speed this by blowing away excess water with compressed air - use gloves......DON'T blow compressed air directly onto your skin as it can be very dangerous! There you go, all ready to prime and paint.
  12. Hi All, I'm Dallas and I currently live in Wellington N.Z. Jeweller by trade, but have done plenty of other stuff too. Spent the last 10yrs involved in the film industry in one way or another, both sides of the camera. 4yrs with Weta workshop as a props/costume tech has been the highlight. 1st saw StarWars at age 11, July 1977 in Lincoln, Nebraska USA - and never really been the same ;o) Currently working towards building up a squeeky-clean, Ep.IV DeathStar TK suit (though I'll admit being very partial to the Sandtrooper look). So far a TK bucket & a "Heart of an Empire" DVD is all I have, but hey...it's a start, right? Currently awaiting delivery of my AM TK Lite kit (and some totally killer disco boots!) Actually I've started on an E-11 (downloaded those great templates) and it's looking pretty cool. (STOP PRESS - Posted pics under "Blasters") Greatest achievement; My 7yr old daughter, Georgia. Greatest claim to fame; Meeting George Lucas Worst moment; Running over the kitten my friends invited me over to see (which they got because their cat was killed on the road). See you on the Darkside.....
  13. Thanks team, still a few things to do......need to source T-Tracks obviously, pierce out the front sight (or scratch build one), make the cylinders and a few other tidiness issues. Looks good I think but would not survive being dropped! Everything is glued and screwed (epoxy/hotstuff) but still pretty fragile. It's 100% NON-functional - thought I'd go easy on myself for the 1st time (which will be why it only took 3 days). Waiting for my AM TK Lite kit to arrive so guess I should have stretched this project out a bit longer! Cheers from NZ
  14. Hi all. Thought I'd post a few pics of my first blaster build. 3 long days, LOTS of coffee (and some familiar DVDs playing in background!) Lots more pics here; http://www.flickr.com/photos/dallaspoll/
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