Greg Sickmeier
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Posts posted by Greg Sickmeier
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9 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:
Lot's a lot in your helmet, I can barely get my head in mine and I only have fans.
I can only see well out of 5% of the lens, they are pretty useless most of the time
Yup, there's no left over space inside my bucket.
With the padding, it slips on comfortable snug; I'm a 52cm noggin.
The green flat lens I retrofitted gives me very clear (tinted) vision but I'll have to use the grey bubble lens when I shoot for my Centurion level someday.
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Here's the best spray polish on planet Earth.
I've tried it out on my kit, and it works great!
Many years of many sport motorcycles including the 7 parked in my family room presently...
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More TK Hero build updates; helmet electronics.
Thank you Ukswrath for all the electronic goodies and guidance
The cooling fans came from Henry's Fans.
I'm good-to-go for L1 approval but will need to find 3-ear bar earpieces to meet higher levels.
I've got a flat green eye piece that can replace the L3 approvable grey bubble lens for trooping.
I'm pretty much blind with the bubble lens in.
Full audio system+chatter loop system+hearing assist system + dual fans.
Additional padding, comfort level: Amazon.com: 2 Rolls 2 Inch W 1/2 Inch T Air Conditioner Open Cell Foam Seal Tape, Window Insulation High Resilience Weather Stripping for Doors Window,Total 10FT : Tools & Home Improvement
Additional padding, base level: Sponge Neoprene Stripping W/Adhesive 1-1/2in Wide X 1in Thick X 15ft Long: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement
Fans are mounted in the jaw area of the helmet blowing towards my mouth with a layer of 1/2" padding over them.
The suction side of the fans are towards the helmet with the curve of the jaw line providing the input.
The speakers for the hearing assist system are above the fans with a layer of padding under them so they fit close to my ears.
Power button for the fans is inside my right jaw area.
Power/volume rotary button is above the fan button in my right jaw area.
Volume knob for hearing assist system is in my left jaw area.
Microphones for the hearing assist system are on the bottom of the helmet S-gasket on each side of the jaw area.
All three controls are accessible with my gloves and helmet on.
4 different rechargeable batteries to power everything.
The hearing assist system uses a 9V battery pack separately.
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2 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:
Can't quite tell in this image but are the front of the shoulder straps glued?, I only ask as I believe SDS use velcro
Yes, E6000, clamped & dried 48 hrs.
The velcro is gone...
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Thanks for all the guidance and references. How's this?
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Ok, completed the shoulder straps this morning.
Question, should the back of the shoulder straps be trimmed down?
There's 3 1/2 small ridges and the large end ridge on the back armor.
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Here's my "brown box(s)" photo upon arrival, July 25, 2022 :-)
I actually ordered this from Shepperton Design Studios in early May, 2022.
Reference Ukswrath's stories about the Andrew Ainsworth and George Lucus saga elsewhere in this site for the back story, but SDS cannot sell or ship to the USA.
I ordered & paid for the complete, "ready-to-wear" kit in Canadian dollars, had it shipped to a buddy in Ottawa, Canada and he eventually brought it across the border to me in Indianapolis towards the end of July, 2022. So, where there's a will, there's a way, eh!
Why go to this trouble? As I started down this worm hole, I thought it'd be cool to have a Stormtrooper suit from the shop that originally designed & produced them for the first Star Wars movie back in 1977, complete with Ainsworth's autograph inside the helmet and chest piece.
Then I discover this site; www.whitearmor.net and now my build adventure begins.
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Here’s the start of my rebuild of a purchased complete, "ready-to-wear" ANH HERO Stormtrooper kit from Andrew Ainsworth’s, Shepperton Design Studios, 76 The Green, Twickenham, Middx, England, TW2 5AG
This kit is far from being compliant to even meet Level 1 CRL guidelines; interesting having come from the shop that designed and produced all the original suits in 1977.
Ukswrath’s build threads have been my primary guide to all the revisions to get to my initial approval.
Many others have answered many questions over the past weeks as I’ve progressed through my first build or more aptly put, "rebuild".
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1 hour ago, Bartman said:
So bathroom breaks must be troublesome in that?
I don't anticipate much in the way of handlers where I'm going to be. I'm still trying to figure out what I will do if there is anything locally. I am not aware of anyone who would be remotely interested in that job. I guess I am a pocket kind of guy for the bare minimum.
"... blast" <--- I'm not sure yet. Certainly many elements entertain my mind and figuring it all out is a bit of an OCD delight. I don't think I will fully grasp it all until I'm in the armor wondering "now what?". I do wish there would be more local opportunities. When I see pictures of troops that have numbers I get jealous. it would be a sweet deal to make this adventure more social for me.
Bart
Most motorcycle leathers under suits have 2-way zippers so once you’ve peeled down the top half of the leathers, you can take care of business with the bottom side of the zipper.
I’ve been amazed with how many 501st Legion Bloodfin Garrison members I’ve met in the past month since starting my review process.
I hope you are able to get into an active local group as I think that’s going to be a big part of the overall experience.
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I love being OCD in many areas of life! So here’s my choice for an under suit.
As a former pro level GP motorcycle racer, I always wore and still do to this day, wear a one-piece liner suit under my race or street leathers.Check this out:
https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/psycleskins-undersuit-base-layer/
This one is a nice snug fit, no visible logo graphics and cheap at US$59.95 on sale presently.
I have to agree with an earlier post that I think I really don’t need to carry a wallet or keys when trooping. The one official trooping I’ve done so far, there were several “handlers” with us who gladly carried my iPhone primarily to take photos for me.Hey Bart, isn’t this an absolute blast!
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Thank you Joseph for your input!
No, SDS did not send me any ABS strips to convert the overlap seams.
Does this apply to them all, biceps, forearms, thighs & calves?
I finished the ammo belt & holster assembly last night and plan to work on the shoulders today. The SDS ammo belt that came with the kit is ABS so there may be enough material in it to do all the cover strips.
The blue buttons on the ab plate are OK but wrong shade of blue. I have a bottle of Humbrol #14 French Blue on the way.
I have been using Ulkwrath’s TK build thread for reference a lot. This forum is awesome.
I will get an order to you later today for the gloves & hand guards.
I already bought a comlink/clip but still looking for the grappling hook/box.
I have addressed the thigh ammo box and have done a pretty good job of filling, leveling & polishing the unnecessary holes with ABS paste. I have reworked the snipper knee and it turned out pretty good.
In hindsight, the SDS kit may not have been the best choice but it is pretty cool having Andrew Ainsworth’s autograph inside the helmet & chest plate :-)
Once I figure out how to post photos, I’ll start a build thread to document my progress & post questions.
Cheers, Greg
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I’m working my way through reconfiguring a new SDS (Shepperton Design Studios) TK HERO kit to meet CRL guidelines.
I’ve assembled a new ammo belt with canvas and proper rivet s additions & drop boxes mounting.
Question is, the 1” natural leather straps have a smooth and rough side. From reference photos, it appears the rough side should be facing out. I plan to use 2 silver 8mm rivets per strap (4 total) to fasten them to the canvas belt per TK HERO CRL guidelines.
Proper location is well defined in other build threads.
Thanks!
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I’m working on the shoulder area presently on my SDS TK Hero kit.
Great information on what’s going on on the outside. I could use some more guidance on the internal configuration. I have the 2” canvas straps, sew on rivets & .25” elastic. Question is about how the canvas straps attach to the underside of the chest & back armors; glued, snaps or a combination of both. I’ve seen multiple variations here from expert builders.
Follow on question is about the shoulder to shoulder bell to bicep connection, single or multiple elastic straps?
And, I saw a post about an elastic connection between chest & ab and back & kidney plates. Is this required or recommended for Centurion level.
Thanks!
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Question: TK Hero CRL states there are 3 ear bars, not 4.
My new SDS TK Hero kit came with a 4 ear bar helmet.Any guidance on finding 3 ear bar ear pods to upgrade my helmet to meet Centurion level.
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Welcome aboard Brad from another newbie going through my initial kit review with a new SDS (Shepperton Design Studios) TK Hero kit.
I’m coming into this adventure as a 66 year old retiree going through yet another midlife crisis :-)My initial interaction with the local Bloodfin Garrison group has been fantastic!
I did my first official trooping event at a Rogue One viewing at a local IMAX theater and managed to break a lot of trooping rules :-)
I wish you all the best as life moves on for you. Greg
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1 hour ago, MaskedVengeance said:
I don't have any experience with Trooperbay's MTK armor color, but I believe AP and AM armor are both pretty bright white. RS will definitely be a creamy color.
I’m a newbie here, so no acronyms please. AP & AM, who are they? :-)
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9 hours ago, Bartman said:
Too late. Already have an order in with AP so either it fits or it doesn't I guess. I won't be building it myself. Mark didn't seem to think my measurements were a problem and we discussed it at length. Bart
Yup, I’m in the same boat; I already have a ANH Stormtrooper Hero kit from SDS (Shepperton Design Studios) and now working through modifications to meet CRL requirements. It is pretty cool having Andrew Ainsworth’s autograph inside the helmet & chest armor.
I now know I’m a 5’-8”, 162 lb ectomorphic body type; thanks Sylverbard :-)I ordered a ammo belt piece from TrooperBay. It is a bit of a milky white compared to the very bright white of the SDS parts.
Any experience out here about who’s ABS parts are a brighter white? I need to get a new thigh ammo belt to meet CRL requirements. I’ve been looking at StormtrooperStoreUS & RS Props in the UK as a possible source.
Thanks
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I also followed your instructions to make a belt & black leather garter straps to support the thigh pieces. Much better than the elastic snap straps hanging off the front ab piece.
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Repeating everyone’s kudos, amazing build thread that’s been extremely helpful to a newbie TK candidate trying to achieve Level 1 approval.
I purchased a ready-to-wear Stormtrooper Hero kit from Shepperton Design Studios, Andrew Ainsworth, in the UK.
Turns out this kit misses the 501st Legion CRL specs in quite a few places. (interesting considering SDS finalized & produced the original Stormtrooper kit back in 1977 for George Lucas)
As I’m making modifications to complete my initial Level 1 certification review, I’m trying to conform to Level 3, Centurion specs.
A couple configuration questions;1) It appears the helmet ear bars on the Hero vs. Stunt are 3 vs.4 bars & 2 vs. 3 screws. My SDS Hero helmet has the correct screw configuration but has 4 ear bars. Do you know where I could source 3-ear bar ear pieces?
2) The SDS ammo belt came as an ABS belt. Following your TK build thread, I’ve fabricated a cloth belt with properly mounted accessory boxes. I’d like to confirm the holster mount for a Hero spec uses 2 fasteners per mount strap (4 total) vs. 1 per strap (2 total) for a Stunt configuration. I plan to use 8mm rivets per your personal preference. :-)
3) The SDS thigh ammo belt is rounded on both top and bottom of the strap extensions and was attached with screws & nuts painted white. My question, is there a minimum length spec for the strap extensions? They’re presently 93mm. If I cut them off to achieve the square top & round bottom, that will make them 65mm long. (368mm - 28mm - 28mm = 312mm)
3) The knee plate on the left greave was also held on with screws. I’ve successfully filled all the holes using your ABS putty instructions and will glue it on and align it properly per the CRL.
4) All the arm & leg pieces front seams are butt & cover strip but are overlap on the back. I presume this will not meet L3 approval. I’m a pretty skinny guy so I think there’s enough room inside all 8 pieces to cut off the overlap areas and replace with the butt & cover strip configuration, following your build thread.
Oh, all of your helmet electronics have worked out perfectly.
Cheers, Greg (pending approval TK 27001)
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4 hours ago, TheRascalKing said:
Double check your CRLs there - you may be thinking of the ANH Hero CRL, which mandates 3-bump ears. All ANH Stunt TKs should have 4 bumps, and Stunt are by far the more popular option. You should always check with whoever made your helmet and purchase parts from them so the color matches. Off the top of my head, I know TM and AM both make Hero style helmets with 3 bumps but likely others as well.
I’m working off of the Hero CRL.
The kit I purchased was for a Hero configuration from Shepperton Design Studios in the UK, Andrew Ainsworth’s company.
He proclaims he completed the final Stormtrooper design and produced the first 50 suits for Lucas back in 1976.He claims what he sells today are made from the original molds that he still owns today.
He has the whole story on his web site Original Stormtrooper dot com.
The Hero helmet he sells has 4 bumps on the ear bars.
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Newbe here working on my Level 1 approval in the Bloodfin Garrison.
On your review of the helmet details, you don’t mention the number of bumps on the ear bars. L2 & L3 CRLs both say there should be 3 bumps, not 4.Most helmets & replacement parts I’ve seen are 4 bumps.
Do you know a source for the 3 bump ears pieces?Great review that I’m learning a lot about TK armor build!
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9 minutes ago, Chemi said:
Regarding the GAP:
-Correct for basic and L2(EI)...
-For L3(Centurion): Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor.
OK, I think I can achieve that. I’ve replaced all the Velcro & elastic straps with solid 1” straps & snaps. If I shorten the 4 straps at that joint from 2” to 1-1/2” and suck my gut in a bit more, I can achieve no gap.
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Outstanding!
Do you have similar measurements for the upper right corner male snap?
Should it be low enough to not be covered by the overlapping chest piece?
Also, measurements/location of the 2 male snaps on the bottom of the posterior armor and rivet on the bottom of the cod piece.
Referencing your top 2 photos, shouldn’t the top edges of the ab and kidney plates be aligned?
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I’m reactivating this thread with some newbie questions regarding Level 3 CRL specs for the ab plate. Can someone post some photos of the 3 rivets & 1 male snap placements.
Also the gap between my ab & kidney pieces is just under 1/2”. Is this OK?
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Three rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the abdomen armor.
- Note: The original rivets used for the TK armor were bifurcated rivets or split rivets.
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Rivets are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge.
- The heads are rounded or domed. Note: Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head.
- Rivets are painted white.
- A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate is present.
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Three rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the abdomen armor.
Oldracer’s SDS ANH HERO build
in ANH Build Threads
Posted
Just a head's up on all the revisions.
I just figured out how to create an imgur photo vault and link photos into my posts.
Just went back and deleted all the embedded images and replaced with imgur Direct Links.
Not bad for an old guy, eh!