DBGrip

No not the notch, nor the angle, because of the elastic stretching at the top. If you look at the back profile of the piece, the part where the kidney meets the butt looks like it protrudes more than the top where the kidney meets the back. Similar to your body where your lower back sticks out more than your mid back. How do you guys draw on a picture that has been posted already? Can you do it in tapatalk?. When I set my kidney piece on a flat table the upper (where it meets the back) is in line with the lower (where it meets the butt). In the screen used picture it looks like the butt is protruding more than the back... I wish I could draw on the picture . Sure would make things easier to explain. Lol. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

A couple of posts ago, I put a photo with the Ab and kidney clamped together. I was holding it at arm's length, due to the weight it looks like the seam is at an angle. Please rotate your phone slightly so the seam is vertical... Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Looking at that screen used suit, that kidney may have been cut at a slight angle. I'm looking at how much the butt end protrudes. Pic of kidney flat on table top. And pic, if the angle was made vertical. It's a very subtle difference. The seam would still be vertical on a body....Interesting... Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Copy all that thanks. I guess it was confusing in the way I explained it, I was always planning on a vertical cut on the Ab. Any angled cut would have been on the kidney. The angled line was a reference for how the kidney lined up when overlapping to fit my body. My back fat pushed the lower part of the back away. Since the kidney was over the Ab when fitting that line was used to line up the kidney under the Ab to generate a tapered cut line on the kidney, so that there would be a vertical seam in the end. I guess that's all moot now, since if I'm not going to make it as form fitting, think I'll just take 10mm of each side of the kidney, and see how it lines up, and shave little by little from there. I guess my thinking in this process was wrong in the sense that trying to get it most form fitting would help my body support the torso, when in reality it's the shoulders holding it up through the straps from chest and back to Ab and Kidney. Also, I haven't trimmed any of the return in the kidney piece, maybe some trimming on the lower return will bring the bottom of the kidney in better. First pic, how it lined up on me, second how I got the angle, by lining up the kidney on the inside, using the marks on the Ab to duplicate kidney position (allowing for spare tire). Illustrating the difference an angled cut (still having a vertical seam would make)... This has become a slightly embarrassing post. Will see what happens with 1cm cut on either side of kidney vertical. LoL. Really hope this helps you guys understand where I was coming from with the angled cut, whilst maintaining a vertical seam. I really laughing now. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

So coming back to this, after a few days of painting my helmet, working on the armor etc. After a learning first attempt on the cheese graters I'm not using, it's time for a second attempt. This time on the guards I will be using. Sprayed the inside of the guards with mold release. Poured a cup of latex, squeezed in maybe a six inch squirt of white acrylic paint, and stirred it up. Remembering how long it took the other cast to dry, latex air cures, hence the heavy ammonia smell; this time I'm laying in the rubber in stages. Just start slopping it in with a brush making sure to push the rubber into the corners of the handguards. Probably 1-2.5 mm thick. Once it cures a bit, I'll lay in some more. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Right, working on Ab and kidney today. I wonder if tapatalk will insert pictures within the text, haven't added as I type yet, only added pics at the end... First pic is me holding the Ab alone, just so you can see where it ends wrapping around my torso. Should have said first 3 pics... without pushing in the sides to make it more form fitting (could fit my thumb in between easily) it seems to be just about mid torso. Next I taped the kidney in place, and ran a pencil down the edge of the overlap. The next four show pencil marks on either side of the Ab and Kidney. I generated the line on the kidney, by overlapping the Ab over the kidney, lining the edge of the kidney with the marks made on the Ab from when the kidney over lapped it during fitting. (Hope that makes sense...) Arrows on the kidney point down I'm guessing I should cut more from the kidney than the Ab, and also the angled cut should be on the kidney. Suggestions welcome. Looking at shaving the sides of the Ab 10mm each side parallel to the existing edge, then moving the marks on the kidney 10 mm in making a cut line parallel to the angle marked on the kidney. I believe the would maintain a vertical seam. Input greatly appreciated, will wait to make cuts till confirmed. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

I second wook,on checking out crickets build. I'm in the middle of my first build as well, and it can be daunting, but it's totally doable. I did build my helmet a couple of years back, though. Ears and teeth are nerve-wracking!. I also agree you can lose a little more in the eyes, and I think a little in the teeth as well. You're almost there. I found a needle file kit was invaluable. I also think you could trim the ears a little more as well. So far so good. There is a really helpful community on this forum, so you're taking all the right steps. Slow and steady wins the race. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk PS edit: When talking about the ears, I referring to trimming the curve some more, not really the caps.

OK so finished trimming up the legs. Put on the old spandex and boots and taped them up. Sorry no pics. Couldn't find a mirror, and well, had to hold the thighs up a little, so couldn't hold camera. Will try and take pics in a couple of days. Taped Ab to kidney as well. Everything seems OK. I manged to trim the top of the thighs for length, if I do it's only going to be a few mm. Think I'm going to have to make some progress on strapping, before making that decision to see how they sit. Split rivets came in, so I'm thinking next task is trying to get Ab and kidney connected and gluing the snaps on the inside of the armor. Doesn't seem like I have to trim for height in these sections. May try to tape up the torso and see what you guys think. See a hit water bath on the back straps in my future just because of how it sat to minimize the gap between it and the kidney. Of course I'll check before doing anything permanent. I think I might be able to go ahead and glue inner shims on the front of the legs...Does anyone have a good reason not to do this before completing the sizing? Oh and I finally bled for my armor... Safety note, if you're working at a table bare foot, don't leave the Xacto knife near the edge. You can knock it off when grabbing another tool, and it will fall like a dart into the top of your toe. Luckily there was some super glue nearby. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Thanks guys. Sorry to be so picky, but I feel the amount of return edge will affect the sizing, hence why I'm overly concerned about it now, rather than later. So many build threads I've been looking through, people are trimming the returns after assembly, and in many instances it seems they've gone a little too big, because the presence of the return prevented them from getting the pieces tight enough to the body. I had a lot of interruptions yesterday, and didn't get as much done as I hoped (all thighs are trimmed now, but not the tops of the shins). Hope to get into it some more shortly. Hope to get some "Tape Trooper" shots up later today . On a positive note, I did get drop boxes on the belt. I ended up using post screws to attach the plastic belt to the canvas one (after my rivet debacle). However I put the slotted screw head on the inside of the belt, so I wouldn't have to take the rivet covers off the front if I ever needed to disassemble the belt (haven't put the covers on yet). Looking through EIB and Centurion submissions, I noticed there are photos of the back side of the belt, would having the screw heads showing on the back, instead of the post receivers be a negative? Pictures later....

That's what I'm talking about being "damaged", the screen used make it hard to judge. Just to be clear that's an ANH screen suit right, but it was an existing ROTJ suit that some of the lineage makers had cast from? That family tree is more confusing than Game of Thrones. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

That's the area I'm concerned about. When you say needs it, do you mean as a structural thing? And I'm guessing you'd leave the same amount on the right shin for looks (giving some illusion of thickness, for when people look you up and down). I mean you don't want to look too hollow... The sniper knee blocks the view down your legs to a degree... Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Copy that on the forearm, I trimmed those already, think there's a picture waay back in the thread. I guess I'm looking for opinion as well, as I know that though there nothing in the CRL, there's also striving for somewhat screen accuracy (realize it's impossible to have total accuracy with an AM suit... but goal is to be close) How much have you guys left on the tops of your shins? Or do you taper a return front to back (more up front, less at the back)? I know I'm going to lose some of it in going for a more "slender fit" in the legs. Thighs? Well since the left one is already done, may as well remove the same on the right because, well, the ammo pack. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Now shins...I know all the bottom return should be removed. How much of the top should I leave? The pics of the RS suit show some return, but the is also signs of damage. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Back to the suit... Today is trimming up return edges, focusing on the legs. Thighs first, trimmed the return edges on the left one, leaving a little at the top (for illusion of thickness. Trimmed almost all at the bottom. Whilst snacking on a sandwich I decided to flip through the gallery again, and noticed there was quite a bit of return left at the bottom of the thighs on the RS suit. Crap. If you look through the pictures I'm adding, how bad have I messed up? I'm also going to out pictures of the yet untrimmed right thigh, as the left was quite similar in that the return, wasn't a right angle. This was the reason I removed it all, because the knee line seemed to be better. The last picture should have been second, it is of the left thigh with all the return removed. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Double Post Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Thanks guys! Dan, those measurements photos you sent really helped. Glad I didn't have to go to attempt #3. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

So third coat went on, decided it would be the last one...for now. After a little drying, I pulled the tape. Hell yeah! I'm OK with this. I mean it will need a little cleaning up once it dries fully, some paint ran down the edge, and it got under a little on the front right tube stripe. But over all it's a success.... Maybe a little wet sanding with the 1000 grit. I really need to get back to the suit... Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

And back to the thread. Went to the Galactic Academy meet-up, which ate up most of my day yesterday, but pulled out the thinner (product plug: that Testors thinner is fantastic!), after stupidly trying to pick off all the failure from paint attempt one. Took out a bigger brush, painted it over those terrible stripes, and couple of wipes with a diaper, clean slate. Remasked, and since I had little time before leaving, figured I pull the screw joining the Ab belt to the canvas one,and rivet it. Well, since I did it from the front, I didn't realize the belt wasn't as tight as I thought, so I riveted to the front canvas only....and tiny tug, the belt came right off with a shiny new rivet attaching nothing....sigh Meet-up went great, kids had a blast doing some Star Wars crafts, and I got to meet some more members of the local garrison. Unfortunately the hobby shop hosting the event only carried Citadel paints, but there happened to be a Hobbytown nearby, so I picked up some Humbrol #14. Sorry for the long post, meant to put one up yesterday, but didn't. The Humbrol wasn't much thicker than the model Master and got a bit sloppy with the flat brush, so a few stripes in, I switched to a smaller brush and carried on. Whilst leaving the first coat of attempt #2 to dry. I spent the rest of the night trying to get that damn pop rivet out,without destroying the plastic. Finally happened...going to use Chicago screw for the belt I think now. This morning was some toothpicking, and felt it was good enough for a second coat. Little more toothpicking and some 500 and 1000 sandpaper, and the final coat will go on after dinner, and checking in with you guys. New thing I learned, and it may be a "well duh" for some of you, dipping the toothpick tip into the thinner really helps with the stubborn remnants from the first round with the toothpick. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

That actually helps a lot. Love the fact there's 15 on the right, and 16 on the left. It shows symmetry in the asymmetry of the suit, with the 12 blocks on the right, 11 on the left of the forearms. 12 and 13 is what I think I'll shoot for now. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Masking I believe, course it didn't do much good with that runny paint, but just looking at the variety in number of stripes, would lead me to believe there wasn't a template/stencil. I had used a No. 2 pencil to lay in the masking at first, but as I constantly adjusted before painting, I think I walked the tape further away from the cheeks. Leaning more to picking everything off this morning, and giving it a whole redo when we get back home tonight. Hopefully second time will be the charm, rather than the usual third . There's also supposed to be some kitted 501st members at the Galactic Academy meet and greet, crafts thingie today, so I'll scrutinize their kits Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Looking again, the stripes look a little long to me. I had read 13/16ths. Dan I'm sure you have an accurate length (or width, depending on your point of view) in mm. Thickness being the 2.5 to 3mm. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Dan, I think I'm giving myself 2 more strikes before going to the template. For some strange reason, I feel that being able to free hand it, is a rite of passage for me. The trials and tribulations of these tube stripes are strengthening the bond between me and my kit. The build hasn't drawn blood (yet), so mental anguish is seems to be a suitable replacement. Looking again this morning the right tube isn't that bad, a strong B- even, and the left tube a solid D. The front three stripes on the right were the first ones to go on, and where the runny mess panic quickly set in. I did those facing the helmet looking eye to eye, which forced my hand into a less than stellar position and the panic made me forget to concentrate on the slight curve. Positives, are maybe 35% of the stripes look good to me, so I think I can pull off free hand in the end. I also think I got the placement of the area for the stripes pretty good. I'm taking the kids to a Galactic Academy meet and greet later today, and it's being hosted at a hobby shop, so maybe they'll have some Testors French Blue (it Humbles isn't carried in my nearby Hobby/Craft stores), for attempt #2, and I'll be able to pull the paint better if it's thicker. Thanks again for all your tips and guidance! Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

It's just the Model Masters thin paint that's doing me in. There was a good hour plus of toothpickin'. It bled under the tube tape as well. Also came of the brush wider than I would have liked, whichever messed up my spacing on the stripes. Ended up with 10 and 11, kinda wanted 13. Or 12 and 13 considering the asymmetry. Guess I could remove a some and redo some sections. So no one sees a problem with that particular thinner? I figure if it's for model paints it should be (?) safe for plastic? I'm probably going to have to use it to get some of the paint that's settled in nicks and stuff. Now here's a question that just popped into mind. Do you guys clear coat after finishing painting? Also if not, does polishing mess up the paint? If you thought my post language was off colour, you should've heard me in the kitchen...especially when I noticed some big blue finger prints on the Faceplate and cap. Aaarrrggh. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

OK. Last one for the night. After some toothpick action, it's not god awful, but will definitely go back it with a fine tip to add some coats. Of course on the buttons the blue found all the tiny nicks from cutting out the masking circles. Toothpick, cloth, 1000 grit sandpaper, and a little thinner on a fine brush. Before using thinner around the tubes, added a photo for an AOK. Actually picking in some of the curves. Still blame the paint a little would have gone better if it was thick like the Testors Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Yep, it's been my saving grace, Lol. The Ab detail really shows the difference though. Testors gray, masking worked. Lousy Model Masters got all up under that shizz. (Please excuse my vernacular, it's all over the place... Born in Australia, grew up in the Philippines, and have been in Atlanta for 25 years. Plus I'm a grip, my swearing tendencies make sailors blush[emoji23]) Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk