ggriffaw
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Posts posted by ggriffaw
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kman's explanation for the assembling the shins makes sense to me. Does anyone have a reason to say that arrangement is incorrect?
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Isn't it more accurate to say the shin parts were labelled inconsistently making any references to part number useless? Discussing the assembly based on the part shapes is what needs to be done.<br><br>
It's amazing that something as simple as this has caused so much controversy. Hopefully everyone can member this is a hobby and should be fun.
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Unfortunately it sounds like there are differing opinions among the experienced builders regarding which leg each shin goes on. But getting each shin assembled correctly is a good start.Exactly. Some kits are numbered correctly, apparently, but many are numbered wrong. So telling someone the numbers is fairly useless, unless you know HOW their kits were numbered.
The only reliable way to correctly identify the parts is to put them together and look. Until you know what to look for, best option is to post a photo so those who know how to tell the difference can make a recommendation.
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Isn't there an issue with the parts being inconsistently numbered? If so going by the stickers may cause people to use different parts than intended by the person posting the part numbers.I recommend reading this. If you look at the tops of the shins when they're lined up, it may hold the clues to what they should be. For me, this was the combination that worked....24/27 and 25/28.
What sealed it was seeing how the tops of the shins lined up when the front joint was trimmed down to 10mm on each side.
http://obsidiustk.blogspot.com/2016/02/shinale-resolving-conflict-of.html
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Their website points out the direct lineage but has no mention of them creating parts from scratch. To me that is misleading. The information may be available somewhere, but it shouldn't be necessary to search forums on other sites to get the details. Transparent to me is stating which parts do not have direct lineage and were sculpted by them. The only indication they give of creating parts is the mention of an almost complete original suit.Hi Gary. Well RS has been transparent. In case you have not seen the photos located in the photo references gallery here it is:
http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/59-the-rs-suit/
Here are photos of the actual suit RS has in its possession. So the lineage is there for everyone to see. And as far as the parts that were missing members here have stated which parts they are. Paul (troopermaster) certainly knows what they are because he gave them some parts so they can complete the suit.
I have no dog in this fight at all because I think everyone has a choice and whatever choice they go with is completely up to them. I own a MTK suit and that is considered questionable. BUT I don't care because that is the armor I chose because that is the armor that was right for me. However, RS certainly isn't hiding anything that you are leading on.
Showing photos of the reproductions next to original parts seems like a good way to show how accurate their product is. I don't understand why they don't do that.
What I see on the RS website gives me a different impression than what I see on this forum. I have no idea if it is intentional or not, but I do feel the website is misleading.
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Is the point to only see where the Anovos and RS are the same or different? This won't prove one is more accurate than the other.I started this post to compare RS and Anovos.. Please to not sidetrack... thank you.
If both have a specific part based on different ANH era screen used parts, I would think they would look almost identical. This would not prove the Anovos is based on the RS suit. If the RS suit has parts that are known to not be screen accurate and the Anovos part matches, that would indicate the RS part was used as a source.
I'm surprised how little evidence is shown comparing reproductions to screen used parts. I understand very few people have access to screen used parts, but those that say their parts are based on screen used parts should be eager to show how accurate their parts are.
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The RS Props website simply says they have access to a near complete original suit. I haven't found any mention on the website of what they had to create, modify, etc. Shouldn't those being critical of Anovos for not being transparent about the sources of their armor also not like RS Props not being transparent about parts they created or modified?<br><br>
I think some people have the impression that the RS Props suit is 100% directly cast from an original suit that is in great condition. From what I have read on these forums, that appears to be somewhat exagerated from the real lineage. I'm not saying anything about the quality of the RS suit, but it's lineage appears to be somewhat exagerated.<br><br>
I'm not a fan of the lumpy helmet they produce. That may be how the originals were, but that isn't how they looked to me when I saw the films. I prefer a more clean helmet.<br><br>
I disagree with some people making definitive statements that one armor is better than another armor. It depends on what the buyer is looking for and how much they want to spend. People need to do some research on whatever armor they are thinking about purchasing, not just go by a few posts on a forum.
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Are you expecting Anovos to list the source of every part that was scanned and what work they did to the model for each part? That would be a long list.Oh and I left off, be very cagey about were I got all the parts from, and how much work I did to change it.
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Saying the Anovos kit is based on any single source appears to be inaccurate. Perhaps certain parts are based on non screen used parts. Are there certain screen used parts that are not known to exist anymore?
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The Anovos comments say multiple sources were used to create the 3D models. Specific parts not matching a specific suit doesn't prove that suit was not used as reference, scan, etc for other parts. Anovos may have combined scans or reference from multiple instances of the same part to create a composite version.<br><br>
If there are parts about a suit that are distinctly different enough from the screen used suits to identify the maker, doesn't that say those parts aren't very accurate?<br><br>
I would think scans from two separate screen used suits should be almost identical unless there were defects in the suits that made certain parts unique.
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I still have my code. First to send me a PM can have it.<br><br>
Code passed on to frimpme.
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This is my first build, so I could be wrong, but UKSWrath's build thread recommends ordering a bag of 15 S Poppers in addition to the Tandy snaps. I believe the S Poppers are the ones that are visible and the Tandy snaps are internal.
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What is the difference between line 24 snaps and S poppers?
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The photos on the Tandy website for the non antique finishes are not up to date.
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I received an order of the nickel plated snaps direct from Tandy. They have the text. They told me all of the new stock is like that.
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I received my order of nickel plated snaps. They have the Tandy text on them. I called Tandy to ask about this. They said all of the new stock is this style. Will this be a problem for the visible snaps?
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The codes are for a 10% discount.How much are these codes saving yas if you don't mind me asking?
You get a code after placing an order. The code expires in 2 weeks.
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I used BrianN's code. PM me if you want my code.
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It looks like the Antique finishes of these snaps have some text on them. I don't think we want this text. I believe we want the standard finish.
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The one on the right looks like the Antique Nickel finish. If you look at the photos on the Tandy website, the Antique Nickel show the text but the Nickel finish doesn't. Apparently the design of the Antique styles are different than the regular finishes. I believe we want the regular finish.
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I'd buy a pack of 100 at half price, and then ask the clerk for the setter and anvil. You'll want their tools, as they're made to fit the post size of their snaps. If you use double snaps for an entire TK, you'll need about 70 snaps.
The number needed surprises me. Are you using snaps instead of the Mr No Stripes brackets? Is your use of snaps significantly different than the UKSWrath Anovos build thread?
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Do you have any particular reason for picking a certain color?
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According to an Anovos post on Facebook, the main difference between the Premier helmet and the 501st fiberglass helmet is the addition of metal parts and possibly different padding on the interior.
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If there are no changes, do you think it is much better than the standard version?
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I'm advising anyone who asks me about the frown to take some mineral spirits to the teeth, find some Testor's 1138 (Gray) and repaint the frown. Not only is there the overspray, but the frown is darker gray than the rest of the details on the bucket and it is more matte in finish than the rest of them as well.
Has anyone repainted the frown yet? I'm curious how it looks and if there were any issues doing it.
Anovos kit vs completed ensemble
in Hard Armor (General Discussion)
Posted
An important question is how close you are to the ideal stormtrooper size, assuming you will be wearing the suit and not just displaying it. I believe that is 5 feet 10 inches with a medium build. If you are not close to that, the pre-built suit won't work without major modifications.
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