n1nthcloud

I dont mean to bring up the past I know this is an old thread but this is the problem im running into... <br> I had to extend my armor out a bit to fit my forearms and biceps. But the thing is even if I use a 19mm cover strip my arms will still have outside ridges showing....<br> I want my cover strips to look proportionate...<br> Should I just go 25mm on front of shins and thighs and 20mm on the arms... and then 25 or 30 in back of legs?<br> Or just keep the front of legs 20mm and have smaller arm coverstrips with nore ridge... im not sure which would be more approved

Ok so I was just on the 501st website under centurion requirements. And it says that the groin rivit does not have to be functional....<br><br> Does this mean by process of elimination I have to attach straping to the kidney/abb rivits? because it didnt say that kidney/abb rivets didnt have to be functional....nor did it say that they had to be. It only talked about the COD rivit. like what I would like to do would be put the split rivits for appearance and hammer them down. And then right next to them have snap plates connecting elastic to the abb/kidney instead of the rivits. <br><br> This way I could fully unassemble my armor.....<br><br> Is this allowed for centurion? Or do these rivits have to be functional????<br><br> Please I would only like responses from people who know the heart of this subject

So bulging might be an exageration.<br> But when sizing my arms with painters tape acting as the coverstrip, <br> my biceps will fit in. But super snug. I can flex but bairly.<br> my forarms bairly fit as well...hands bairly can make it through front of forearms.<br> I want it to be centurion approved and im not sure of what technique I should use to build it.<br> do I keep the coverstrip at 15mm And just make a gap where the buttjoint would be?<br> Or do I make a bigger coverstrip over a gap so it reaches the ridges on each arm?<br> Or do I make the front 15mm and the back bigger like the legs?

Congratulations. May the force be with you.

Thanks for the advice fellas

I know but do you spend hours in these fuel tanks with you nose and mouth a few inches from the paint? Maby it only becomes a problem then?

So ive read from people that painting the inside keeps light from getting in and makes trooping an over all better experience. But I also read the recent post from the guy on here who got super sick and almost died from breating in e6000 fumes...<br> I went to home depot and asked the person who works at the paint desk and mixes paints if there was any black non-toxic paint that I could use on plastic for a full face helmet.. he looked at me gravely and said no you do not want to do that. Any paint is going to be bad for you to breathing in the particles and might even pose a cancer risk down the road...<br> Now that sort of shocked me coming from a paint expert..<br> So I went to the craft shop and picked up a few more supplies for my armor and saw the normal testors paint etc. That we use. And also childrens non-toxic paint.<br> I went and found an employee who was very knowledgeable and asked her the same question.<br> She proceeded to give me the same grave look. She said that even the non-toxic paint would be a bad idea to breath in and probably wont stick to plastic very well..<br> She recommended maby I use like a felt/cloth/dark leather and glue it in because some glues wont leave behind particles like paint and would probably be a better idea...<br> Reguardless I proceeded to buy the childrens non-toxic paint with the rest of my supplys. <br><br> I guess what I want to know is who is knowledgeable in this field. And what do you recommend I do. I want my helmet to look great but after seeing like 4 people I know in the last year and a half get cancer and being around them. my health awareness I guess you could say has become elevated.

Thanks. I looked through your whole build and picked up alot of great info.<br> But my limbs fit inside so I dont know why I would need extra material for that kind of gap.<br> I understand now that the top goes up and bottem stays level.<br> I guess you could say my closing gap isnt flush... like because the trimmed cut was cut at an angle instead of straight so it causes a gap. <br> Im just not sure if it would be safe to risk trimming it down since each side is already at like the 10mm mark. So thay the 20mm cover strip will fit over it. But because the trim has curves in it im afraid it wont line up properly.

What the hell is for sale sign plastic? And do you have any pictures on how you would do that and what it looks like

P.s. the thermal detonator clips I bought from you are stellar thanks.

For sale sign plastic? its going to make it line up? 1" is 25.4 mm I thought that it was supposes to be 15mm arms, 20mm fronts, and 25mm or bigger for backs? <br> Thanks for the quick reply. <br> Is ap armor just different?<br> I remember you said you build tons of them.

Someone please help

So I bought AP fully trimmed which is supposed to be ready to aassemble.<br> Sizing it to make sure my limbs fit in it and they do in all pieces. <br> Im going to be doing the butt joint coverstrip method. <br> I ran into a problem. When taping them together they do not sit flush with the opposite side piece to the limb. There is either a massive gap in the middle or on the sides. Is this normal? is the coverstrips just going to go over these big gaps. Or do I need to do some trimming to make them flush before coverstrips?

Still have been unable to find someone that sells. I need shipped now so I can have suite built before haloween

Im about to become a 501 AP should get it shipped anyday im getting impatient <br><br> I have interest in doing some trooping events. I think that it could make children or people happy which would make me happy.<br> I would like to hear the most profound experience you have ever had trooping. if you have ever had one that makes you feel like you really made a difference in someones life.