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kayelbe

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Posts posted by kayelbe

  1. Alright here's where I'm at right now:

     

    I was able to get it all to work by reading the directions.  Version 3 is awesome at adding that random static pop.  However, what attracted me to the TKTalkie was the ability to actually change the voice, which is apparently a function of V4.

     

    After a little trouble, I was able to get it to connect using the 2.0 app (I never learn--I assumed the baud rate was 9600 in the config file, but it wasn't).  But now I can't get any sound from the microphone.  I changed the input to "line" while I was in there changing the baud rate.  I didn't wire up the microphone input so I can't switch my mic to there to test.

     

     

    Edit:  I went ahead and added a mic input since it wasn't too hard to get to those solder points.

     

    It works!  Not sure why the line-in doesn't work, though...

     

  2. Well, after triple checking my soldering I remembered the one other thing that I had done between successful and unsuccessful connection attempts:  I had added the pre-made profiles from the download section.  I went back and only today noticed that they were meant for v4 firmware.  Apparently, adding them to the profile folder on the SD card and not upgrading to V4 firmware will confuse the TK-Talkie during the connection process to the app.  That is why I was getting the "connected" LED on the BLE, but the app would timeout.

     

    Also, when I reported the "3 Beeps", I may have been wrong; there were 3 beeps, but they were a different tone/pitch/octave.  There is apparently a 3 beep process during a normal connection.  During my experimenting today I was able to hear both and noticed the difference.  Again, weirdly the "good" 3 beeps wasn't every time.

     

     

  3. 4 hours ago, lerxstrulz said:

     

     

    Oh, and make sure the baud rate in your config.txt matches what the ble is set to, which is typically 9600 by default.

     

     

    Version 3 doesn't have a config.txt file.  It has a settings.txt file, which after I checked ver4 it appears to be the same thing.  However, there is no baud rate line in the settings file.

     

    FWIW, I'm checking my BLE soldering.  I agree it has to be here.  It worked for a minute when I first put it together, but hasn't since.  That sounds more like a broken connection.  Unfortunately I'll have to desolder the teensy board to get a better look.

  4. I built a Ver3, and am having issues.  Wanting to use a wireless mic with the setup, couldn't get it to work through the mic input.  Didn't have the correct BLE module yet, but I soldered up everything else while waiting.  I was hoping it was a setting that I couldn't adjust until the BLE was installed.

     

    Got the BLE module installed last night, got the peripheral disconnected alarm a million times before I was able to connect through the app (didn't change anything, just kept trying over and over.  Once the profile took, it was easy to connect).  Still couldn't get the microphone to work, even found the one that came with the Aker1505 and tried that--still doesn't work.  Both wired and wireless mics work connected without the TK-Talkie.

     

    Did some digging today and found the note that the wireless *should* be connected via line-in.  Soldered up a jack to the Line-In on the audio shield...

     

    Now, it won't connect through the app.  I get either timed out or peripheral disconnected errors.  Also, get the three BEEPS.  Reading above, someone said that meant it couldn't read the SD card?  I don't think that's an issue because the startup.wav file plays just fine.  I deleted and reinstalled the app several times, even tried the 2.0 app.

     

    Any help would be appreciated!

     

     

    Edit to add Serial Monitor message when attempting to connect via App (get the error message(s) and three beeps):

     

    > RX: connect=0d75b398bcacc44e|21398
    > BLE Cmd: connect Value: 21398 Uid: 0d75b398bcacc44e
    > Received access code 21398
    > DEVICE ID 0d75b398bcacc44e...Send Access OK
    {"cmd":"access","data":"1"}

    I went into serial manager and was able to change input to line in and the microphone now works!  If all else fails I guess I will have to manually edit the settings.

     

    That tells me the teensy and shield work fine, but I can't connect through the BLE.  Weird thing is, I can *connect* just fine (light goes solid), it just doesn't like the connection or something.  I tried the app from the manufacturer (DSD Tech), and although I didn't know what to do once connected, it DID connect.  Also installed Light Blue--same:  I can connect but don't know what to do after that).

     

     

  5. That is indeed the exact same as the "Wireless Trooping System".  I have both the WTS as well as a couple of the ones you linked above.  I have worn them in a TD bucket and inside my scout helmet.  I haven't experienced any feedback issues.  Both with and without the IComm.  I guess it depends on speaker placement.

  6. How's everyone getting on with these out in the wild?

     

    Have my induction troop in 2 weeks so need to get my aker speaker attached into my armour. Hoping i can use this instead of wires, but heard they feedback badly?

    I have two of them, and they work just fine.  I never noticed any feedback unless I bent forward with my chin to my chest (an awkward position for me, anyway).  And I've had just about every combination of microphone and amp--that is no different between them.  

    No background hum or hiss that I could hear, and nobody mentioned it to me.

     

    You want wireless?  This is the best that I've seen, IMHO.  Best part is you can have more than one going in a troop and no crossover, which I had with a Memorex.

    • Like 1
  7. Just did a google search on these...

     

    The dimensions on this one are 36.75 x 21.38 x 18.0 inches

    The dimensions on the Husky box are: 37 in. L x 23 in. W x 23 in. H (typically $60-70)

    The dimensions of the Stanley box are 37.3 x 22.8 x 23.1 inches  (typically $80-90)

     

    I saw they were $46 on WalMart's site.  I looked again and saw it was 2 for $46.  I can't speak for their ruggedness, but that's a good price if they are sturdy enough.  I will say that it probably won't fit in the backseat.  I had a hard time trying to squeeze my Husky box in the back seat of my Toyota Yaris.  It fit in the back okay, but getting it through the door was the hard part.

  8. Unless you have another need for the heat gun (really helpful when building armor), you can get by with a hairdryer or even a lighter/candle.  Just don't get too close or hold it still for too long with the open flame.  I used to use a cigarette lighter (when I was a smoker) while doing instrument and controls wiring.  Works in a pinch when you don't have an outlet nearby for a heat gun.

  9. Thanks for posting the video and review. I just ordered mine.

     

    Anyone else in the US have an estimate on the basic air-mail option from them?

     

     

    Hey DSG'er!  I ordered one earlier this year and got it pretty fast.  Not sure how many days, but I remember thinking I expected it to take much longer.  Maybe 7-10 days after order?

     

    It works amazing!  Much better than the wireless I had tried.  Apparently, "Q" has a Memorex, because whenever he and I were in the same room, both our setups started making a loud, warbling sound.  No feedback issues at all.  The only possible issue is moisture.  Under a neckseal, in AZ, it gets a little sweaty.  I'm thinking of ordering a larger neck seal and putting something between the mic and my neck.  Might make it worse, though.

  10. Personally, I wouldn't get one.  I have a Memorex wireless that was apparently pretty popular around the Legion.  First troop I wore it, I found out the hard way that another guy in my Garrison had one.  Whenever we stood within 50 feet of each other, both of our speakers started going nuts.  It wasn't the classic feedback, but a warbling, ocean sound...if that makes sense.

     

    I pitched it and bought a throat mic.  That works great!  No wires, no radio waves beaming into my skull!

  11. Hi... I am trying to put this together...  Thank you so much for this Project.

    Still waiting to receive some pieces but I need some assistance... (Sorry I know very Little about electronics)

    In the led drivers... Do I have to install a 100uf capacitor ?? I dont see it in the components list.

     

    Also in the led drivers... what doesthe symbol on the dim cable mean? ( the one that goes to d9 in arduino).

    Again in the led drivers...whats the symbol after the led ??

     

    Thanks !!

     

     

    I'm also a bit confused in the same areas as Espaider...

     

    He asked what the symbols on the schematic around the drivers are.  One looks like a square wave (the one on the dim cable to d9).  The other one looks like an inductor of some sort (100 microhenry).  As with the 100 microfarad cap, is the inductor on the driver board or does it need to be added?

     

    Also, do you have pictures of "ready to pack" sub assemblies?  I'm trying to get an idea how the final assembly is done.  Most of the pictures seem to be test configurations.

     

    Thanks,

    Kevin

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