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welshchris77

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Posts posted by welshchris77

  4. Has my ongoing sales been archived?

    in Forum Help & Support

    Posted

    Hi, It seems my ongoing sales thread has been archived, may I ask it be put back please? 

    I am still selling these but not everyone comments in the thread when they have bought a set :D

     

    I only noticed when someone sent me a PM looking for a set and heard from another member that I used to have an ongoing sales thread, I did not know it was no longer active.

     

    My original sales thread:- https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47933-silicone-flexible-hand-guards-ukeu/

  5. E6000 original vs fake

    in ANH Build Threads

    Posted

    Your answer helps me, thanks for posting

     

    Can you gave me a link to the seller you buy your e6000?

     

     

     

    Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

     

    Haven't got any in ages as I stocked up a few years ago from a supplier on eBay, I don't think they operate now but most of my fellow troopers use RWA now, I will send you a pm

     

    Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk

     

     

     

    • Like 1

  6. E6000 original vs fake

    in ANH Build Threads

    Posted

    Thanks Joseph, i was using the e6000 plus, but it does not glue things too well, for a moment i thought i got a fake, but maybe is just that version is not as effective as the classic e60004ce6a9c4cda95f0bd392b4b9e72ab21c.jpg&key=e605fa1cf8938bfa87b4a77a2ec1b6e8795beceabbaca45524995f441d7f9d5d

    Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

    The 'E6000 plus' is completely different, it is a 'general adhesive', the E6000 commonly used on armour is 'industrial strength'.
    Someone gave me a tube of the plus once, as soon as I opened it I knew there was something different as it didn't have the strong smell, it does say 'odor free' on the packaging but I thought I better do a bench test piece before committing to using it on a prop.
    I glued two pieces of scrap ABS with 'plus' and left it 3 days to cure.
    When I came back I tried pulling the two pieces apart, they came apart easily.
    I would not use the plus on armour.

    Once when I was working on a project I had run out of E6000, I happened to have a tube of 'shoe goo' original in the studio, it smelled the same as E6000 and was also an industrial adhesive, I used it and it worked great

    Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk

    • Like 1

  7. Tall stormtroopers

    in Forum Help & Support

    Posted

    On 8/22/2019 at 7:35 PM, Bullseye said:

    Since you're in England I'd strongly recommend RWA Creations.  I know a number of taller European troopers who love their RWA armor.  Ross is located out of the Isle of Wight and has "Big Boy" armor for taller troopers.  His kits look fantastic.  Since you'd be shipping inside the UK, his prices are fantastic.  Great guy.  Been very helpful to me in my build and I don't even own his armor.  You'll find a number of RWA builds going on in the WIP forums.   He's also got a you-tube channel for how-to-build.

     

    https://www.facebook.com/groups/rwacreations/

     

    PM me and I can send you a link to his pricing. 

    What Dave said, contact RWA :duim:

  8. E-11 Project (Pic Heavy)

    in The Foundry - Armor and Prop Making

    Posted

    On 8/1/2019 at 8:34 AM, Sly11 said:

    It is money well spent. We bought one from Ali express and its still going strong.

    Make sure you get a reasonable size so you can fit larger items in it.  I am considering making a larger version with heavy duty PVC pipe ( industrial grade) the type used for under ground piping, sealed at one end with a silicon gasket and Lexen window at the other. The existing pump should work fine just take more time to evacuate the chamber and draw the bubbles out of the resin.

    I have build one myself from an old pot and a fridge compressor (will post a build thread) ;)

  11. Clayton's ANH Stunt Build - RS

    in ANH Build Threads

    Posted

    Wow your shed is so clean!, mine often looks like a war zone!

    Take your time and check others build threads, always ask if unsure on any fitment.

    Before any final trimming see how it all fits on you to check how parts relate to each other in terms of proportion.

    When I build armour I generally leave enough gap to fit a finger between skin and armour, a little more at the top of the thighs and maybe biceps to allow for muscle flex.

    Always check shin pieces with your boots on.

    Take your time and you will get there, slow and steady wins the race!

    Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk

    • Like 1

  13. Thigh fit

    in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance

    Posted

    I would leave them like that for now, do the torso then roughly tape the shins (with boots on!), you can then gauge gap ratio (if any) between armour before committing to anything.
    It's often a good idea to leave more room at the top of the thighs when you finalise everything as your thigh muscles can expand as your walking so may need a little more room.

    Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk

  15. First ever blaster build using Doopys, Tino’s kit and hopefully lots of luck!

    in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance

    Posted

    Morning all! Struggling with the scope rail today I’ve cut the rear part out but can’t work out how far from the other end I need to mark the bend?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Sometimes better to bend and cut the front of the rail then scribe and cut the back to suit, if you have enough length on the front you could do this and recut the back

    Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk

  16. First ever blaster build using Doopys, Tino’s kit and hopefully lots of luck!

    in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance

    Posted

    Morning all! Struggling with the scope rail today I’ve cut the rear part out but can’t work out how far from the other end I need to mark the bend?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Sometimes better to bend and cut the front of the rail then scribe and cut the back to suit, if you have enough length on the front you could do this and recut the back

    Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk

  17. First ever blaster build using Doopys, Tino’s kit and hopefully lots of luck!

    in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance

    Posted

    Ok...finally I managed to make a start! Lock screw and bolt fitted to the grip, trigger and spring fitted and shaped a strip of aluminium for the trigger guard. It’s thinner than the scope rail so not sure it’s quite acceptable? What do u guys think? 4f81744a06096e225bf9fa9b5b2be519.jpg1623ead00bbbb16dc9ad7e22670013d7.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Good job, looks great!

    Sent from my SM-A310F using Tapatalk

  25. E11 Blaster pipe build with lights and sound

    in ANH BlasTech E11

    Posted

    1 minute ago, Dracotrooper said:

     

    7.4V , that's double my ready-to-install BlastFX battery of choice at 3.7V I like this picture with all the wires because it shows how involved designing / configuring custom electronics can be. Great for you to figure things out!

     

    Yeah the three LED regulators and Arduino nano run directly off the battery, everything else is run from the Arduino's 5v output, looks fairly simple in a diagram but can get logistically tricky trying to fit everything in, 15 wires needed to be joined at the ejection port, that doesn't include all the ground and power cables that were spliced together at various points before the port ^_^

    • Like 1
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