jmm7375

Thanks for the encouragement Glen! Much appreciated I think I did a pretty good job with the sniper plate. I may have to heat bend a little more in the back to close things up, the pressure from attaching the sniper plate may have pulled the halves apart a bit more than I would have liked. Easy fix though. Here is a couple of pics of the thighs. Shims inside from the cut off excess and the butt joint shown in front. Next I will test fit to get the back done. More pics to come...

Ok, so styrene on top of the elastic worked, but it was a bit of a pain in the @ss to remove. I was surprised to see that the e6000 had melted and attached to the styrene. Ultimately my idea worked, but I'm not sure what to recommend otherwise. Perhaps if I went a little lighter on the e6000 it wouldn't have bled through so much and stuck. Now that I had the elastic and hooks in place, I did some test fitting and everything looked good and fit well. The shins close in the back and you can only see a gap if you're looking for it from the side. I will take some pictures of a test fitting after I finish the thighs. On to the sniper plate... With so much weight added to keep the sniper plate in place I had to think of a good way to support it for the full 48 hrs I plan on letting it cure THIGHS Since I have some time I decided to measure and cut the front of my thighs. I took off enough excess to leave me 11mm of overlap on each half since the cover strips I have are about 23mm wide. I thought they were 25mm, when I first got them (got to get my eyes checked), and I have to let swmand4 know too!

After a little heat bending to get the shins a little closer together in the back I started to install the elastic and hooks. I had some spare 1mm styrene, so I used it to get some pressure on the elastic along with the magnets. I hope the e6000 doesn't come through and attach to it, but I tried to leave some space so I could pry the styrene off if necessary. I didn't like the idea of using velcro, and this is a bit more screen accurate. RT-MOD armor isn't as accurate as some of the other armor out there, but I figured I'd try and do the best I can with what I got. That includes my body and the armor

Part of me wishes that I hadn't cut any excess off the overlap where I placed these cover strips in the back. It was a pain in the neck to get it clamped on right with only half of the surface to work with. Plus I felt it was difficult to ensure it was straight. Live and learn.

The inner shims feel great in my build. I like the added support and weight of the armor. I think the above cover strip sizes are recommendations. Depending on your size, they can be made larger if needed, but proportionality and consistency will contribute to the overall look of the armor. The front is more important than the back too. Rob cut the cover strips for me and labelled the sizes. They are straight and long enough so I plan to use them. The 21mm strips are closer to 20mm, but since the thighs are bigger than the shins, the cover strips are a bit wider is my guess.

I found it a lot more difficult to cut the shins in the back once the front was glued together, but I got it done. I sanded the rough cuts down since it was difficult to cut straight all the way through. I decided to put the cover strips on the front, then did another test fitting. My lower legs are thin, so I had to trim a bit more than I anticipated (cut the entire overlap off on one side). I may have to heat them to close properly. I'm not sure how much pull the elastic and hooks will have to close things up, we shall see What can you do while you wait for cover strips to cure...SEW! Got my hooks on the elastic so I'll be ready for that step soon. One cover strip done and ready, the other curing. Next steps will be to trim a little off the overlap in the back and get the back cover strips in place. After that, drill holes, glue elastic (debating which way I should have the hooks face), then on to the sniper plate

In case it wasn't clear in my thread...like Eric and Tony said. I made a guide strip for my biceps and forearms, but didn't really use it since it wasn't very straight. Cover strips that I have from Rob are 21mm for the shins. Thighs are 25. So, for RT-MOD, cut each half of the shin so you have approximately 10mm on each side to attach your cover strip. I'm working on the backs of my shins now and still test fitting. It seems like I have very thin lower legs, since I feel like I'm cutting off a lot Everyone is different, so learning how to customize the armor is part of the process. Keep up the good work!

SHINS Let it begin. I did not officially test fit yet since I will do so after I cut approximately 10mm from each front overlap piece, create my but joint and then use an inner shim for support. The front cover strip is about 20mm, so it will look good in front. Any extra trimming I plan on doing will take place in the back. I plan on going with elastic and hooks for the back rather than velcro. On to the pics... Initial cut lines First cut, oh and I like to recycle, so the 10mm excess I use for my inner shim Plus, they are the entire length of the shin already, so it makes things easy. Two halves with sanded smooth edges ready to be taped and shimmed Taped up with lots of magnets doubled up and a few clamps over magnets on the ends. I'm finding I prefer the magnets more than the clamps especially these 3/4" ones for the shins. I wish I had some 1/2" ones for the forearms and biceps just so they fit a bit more flush. Oh well, I'm past that and these are serving me well from here on forward. The inner shim in place inside the shim I will more than likely repeat this process for the other shin, then do some serious test fitting. Maybe I'll put cover strips in place first, but I'm thinking that might be the last step. I know I have a sniper plate to deal with, and some holes to punch when I'm ready for hooks and elastic.

Final cover strip in place for the forearm. I am debating in my head what to tackle next...I'm leaning towards shins and thighs. I'll wait on snaps and elastic for now. I feel like I'm in a bit of a groove now.

Ask and you shall receive...Here is a pic of the inner shim I used for the forearm. Basically the small piece that I cut off of the overlap was used after trimming the ends. May not look pretty, but it works. I included a bicep shot too. These were larger shims since I trimmed more bicep to fit my body.

Hey Craig, Thanks for the advice. I kind of figured I'll go back and make some adjustments once I'm wearing the armor more regularly. I just don't want to make any "comfort" adjustments that compromise the appearance of the suit until I've got the majority of the work done. I love what you've done in your build thread, and enjoy referring to it since we've got the same RT-MOD suit. I plan on picking your brain about making adjustments to the belt when I get to it. I know you had some issues, but I have some ideas I want to run by you when the time comes. Trying to make the RT-MOD as accurate as possible has it challenges for the larger/taller trooper Together we can do it, and slowly take over... Cheers!

Thanks for the tip Echo. I may have to try that if I break a few more. Nothing too exciting today. Another shim in place and I keep scraping the hell out of my right hand each time I take it out of the forearm. I'm hoping when I start trooping the sweat will help me slide out more easily. Otherwise I may have to try some KY

Thanks for all the encouragement. Trying to do a little each day, but sometimes I get off track. Today was my first experience with jumping magnets breaking. I've been doubling up to keep the cover strips in place. When I was disassembling, the magnets underneath jumped and broke. Tried to salvage a few by keeping them doubled and placing blue tape around the broken piece (two left in pic). Might have to place an order for more magnets. We shall see. Trimmed the second forearm and inner shim is in place.

Biceps complete with hooks. I've got the second cover strip on the first forearm and I was wondering if I should remove the return edge where the butt joint meets. It is easy to see on the right side where the clamp isn't. I've been trying to find pics of approved armor to confirm removal or let it stay. Just not sure how many are using cover strips with RT-MOD out there. I have to look closer at BIDS thread, I think he was doing this. Thanks for all the positive feedback, this is fun!

You've certainly inspired me Eric, as well as many others here on the forum. Once I decided on RT-MOD, I read your thread countless times. My most recent inspiration came from SIMpixels bicep hook tutorial. I was a bit nervous at first, but it worked out really well. BICEP HOOKS Measured everything out according to the tutorial. Don't mind the rusty file, I got my tetanus shot already. Scoring the plastic was not too bad. I definitely feel like I did a better job on the first one, since I took my time. I think I got a little overconfident and the second one wasn't as good, but I'm my own worst critic. My work table is plastic, so I broke out a piece of granite I had lying around to make the bends after heating up the ABS Completed bicep hook. Thanks SIMpixels for the great tutorial! After test fitting to the bicep I had to shorten the bicep hook to get good contact for the e6000. RT-MOD has a "thumbprint" on both biceps, so I cut down the length to get a better fit. Bicep hooks curing and I had enough magnets and clamps to do my first cover strip on the forearm. I need to finish one forearm, and while that one cures I'll work on the other forearm.

I like to make sure my ruler is straight since I don't always cut so straight. I find it a lot easier to cut with the curved lexan scissors I have rather than the straight ones I bought. I don't trust myself to score and snap on the actual armor itself, just for shims and cover strips that can be sanded easily. If I had to trim the kit myself I'd probably think differently, but Rob did a lot of the work for me First inside shim in place...

Thanks for the positive reinforcement and advice. I can cut the ridges in half, like you see in the front pic above to create my butt joint (I always laugh when I write that, I'm such a child) Then use the e6000 to shim behind it and place the cover strip on top. I can always place some foam inside to "beef" up my stick like forearms once I'm fully assembled.

Since I really would like to avoid velcro I think I'm going to go ahead and try to enclose the forearm. I won't heap on the e6000 on the bottom joint in case I need to pry it open and make adjustments. Pics of progress to follow in the not to distant future.

FOREARMS Here is a shot of my test fitting with the forearm and I put the almost completed (no hook yet) bicep for comparison. I can go a bit smaller with the forearm, but I can get my hand in and out without too much trouble and I can get coverstrips on both sides at this size. What do we think?

Thanks for the encouragement! I want to take some test fitting pics and get some more feedback before I make my decision. I can get a more snug fit with the forearms, have room for a glove, but would need some velcro for closure. If I go as big as possible and lose some skin each time I take my hand in and out of the forearm it may be too much space within the armor. I know how much fun the snaps can be since I started trying those first. I read every snap tutorial there was out there, and started to make some snap plates. If you look at my workstation pic above you can see a zip lock baggie filled with them. My wife is way too short to be a stormtrooper, and would rather me spend the $ on a fancy handbag Like what you did there though

Ok, so biceps are shaping up nicely. Trimmed a little excess e6000 off very carefully with an excacto blade and I got the left one done now the right one is set and curing. I haven't formed the bicep hooks yet, but I'm starting to stress out with the forearm fitting. I was hoping to be able to close the forearms with cover strips on both sides but I don't think that can happen. My forearms are long and thin, but my hands are too wide to fit through the opening. I know according to the CRL the forearms must be closed, but I rather not use velcro if I can avoid it. Has anyone ever tried using elastic for a more seamless look? I was thinking of perhaps something similar to what was done on screen for the shins in the back (hook and eye) except just use elastic to give me the temporary flexibility I need to get my hand in and out. Let me know what you all think.

Rob will get back to you and answer your questions. He is often out of town for work. From what I've heard here on the boards he may be booked for this calendar year already and may have started a waiting list for next year. If so, it will give you plenty of time to gather materials, read and read and read. Just so you know, there were a few pieces included (hand guards, and a back plate for the thermal detonator) that I didn't include since I won't be using them.

Got cover strips on one bicep, and letting it cure. Just realized I have to cut more cover strips 15mm in width so I have enough for the forearms. Rob was nice enough to cut me some long and straight, but I definitely need some practice. Hopefully I'll get the cover strips on the other bicep, then try getting the bicep hooks done. Test fitting the forearms in the meantime...

I feel like I accomplished a lot so far and got some good first hand experience. It is one thing to read about the process of assembling one's armor, it is another to do it. I've got my inner shims curing for 24 hrs, then I think I'll do the cover strips and perhaps the bicep hooks if all is good.

Glad I pulled back a few mm from my original lines since I think I nailed the fit. Sometimes it is best to be lucky and good. Big difference in the feel and fit once the overlap is gone and test fitting with a butt-joint. I'm also glad I'm going with cover strips since I don't seem to cut so straight Going to start to glue some shims on one side while I test fit and cut the other bicep. Time to break out the E6000!