bigtrev503
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Posts posted by bigtrev503
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My belt situation is as such that I have to get holes through the triple canvas and there's a plastic piece woven in. I used my dremels largest drill setting but the holes are still quite small. I don't exactly want to hack into it with an exacto. I don't have a soldering iron, otherwise I would use that. I was thinking of carefully cutting out the holes with an exacto and sealing thefrays up with superglue.
I'm using chicago screws to attach the holster in case I go to an event where guns aren't allowed. That way I can remove the holster and leave the chicago screws.
Maybe the tip of my hot glue gun on high?
Any ideas guys? This is LITERALLY the last thing I have to do besides smearing a little silver paint on my blaster. Practically there!
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I'd love to see an updat on this!
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Hello? *crickets chirping*
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OK, after test fitting I identified some areas that needed trimming and some snaps that needed moving. Glue is drying and you can expect a series of test fit pictures in the next couple days. While the glue dries on my arm, I did little things. I connected teh thin elastic for the shoulder bridges, as I said in my last post, I heat formed darn near everything to fit better, I moved the straps around in the bells. If I have to add another snap closer in on the elastic shoulder bridge, I will. We'll see how this new configuration looks and feels.
After a little sanding, but before any polishing this is the right thumbprint removed
Is this an acceptable amount of gappage for the drop box? Input please.
Is this an acceptable spacing for rivets and spacing between kidney and ab? Input please.
By the way, you guys need to get you some of these new 6 inch black series stormtroopers. I got three more coming in the mail. Hasbro is blowing them out for 9.99 shipped on ebay!
As I said, look forward to another series of test fit pics for inspection before I apply for my TK number and then EIB and then centurion!! Wish me luck!
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Got bored. Decided to go crazy and remove the right thumbprint. Heart gun from the outside, oven mitt on the inside. Applying a little heat at a time I merely encouraged the plastic. Never push hard outward, just rest the piece on your hand inside the oven mitt and the gravity will do most of the work.
After that, I had a heat gun epiphany! I learned the feel for it after that bicep so I applied heat to my but plate and shaped the middle part while pulling the sides in. I hit the ab and kidney plates with it and pulled them closer together. I also closed up the cover strips in the calf backs.
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Thanks! Anybody see any glaring problems at all?Looks really good! I think anyone's bells and chest would need adjusting after some of those poses, you will know more after just walking around in regular 'trooping' poses what for sure needs a fix. Great job on the build!
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First test fit since september 2013! Talk about proctrastinating!! I realize my bells need to be adjusted and my chest pops under. I already recognized those things and are making those adjustments.. Other than that, go ahead and tear into it. I can take it. I need all the feedback I can get.
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They say that part becomes the thinnest in the vac forming process. I used that blue loctite stuff a couple posts up. That stuff gets so hard that I was able to drill straight through it and attach the mic tips withot the need for washers. It was over an inch thick inside after I applied it. Maybe Iwent overboard but nothing short of a blw from a hammer is going to break it!
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I noticed it's a quite long with them attached. I'm almost finished and with the tabs attached they pretty much touch the big square on the back plate. I'll definitely cut those bad boys off. Thanks for the help!
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I have ATA and my shoulder bells are symmetrical, meanng there's a 'tab' on either side. Can I cut the rear one off.
This picture
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shows there being no 'tab' at the rear
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I am also in Oregon! I'm in Portland and we jsut had an armor party in SE and got a lot done! What part are you from?
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Hello, everyone. Allow me a moment to blow the thick layer of dust off this thread. I am going to an armor party this afternoon and will (hopefully) be posting finished pictures today and submission pictures sometime this week!
I will be uploading some test fittament pictures this evening for critique. AFter I get my TD screws from Paul, I am DONE! You hear that? DONE!!!!!!!!
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Holy moly that was fast! I'm on my way behind you, Jason!
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Found out last night from a helpful cashier at Joann Fabrics... There's a 50% off coupon on the Joann website that's good through May 3. I was buying snaps and elastic and her tip saved me a bunch of money! I was able to pull up the website and coupon on my iPhone, and she scanned the coupon code directly from my phone. LOL, must be my good looks and charm...
Dude, I've learned that Joann fabrics have sales and coupons ALL the time. They're practically giving their stuff away. Those snaps get expensive at $7 per 7 snaps. $3.50 is a much better price!
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So, does anyone know which modifications have been made to these molds to make them fit better? I know the right forearm on ATA is gigantic and the left greave at the bottom is as small as the right wrist should be. What are the differeces between this and other ROTJ drived suits?
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Hey, I'm just south of you in Portland! Welcome aboard!
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Sorry, my bad, Mathias. I should have looked harder before posting.
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Yeah, when my butt joins went together they weren't nice and flat. It was more of a "mountain" shape left. Well I spent about 4 hours sanding those mountains off last night and I'm still not 100% happy with their 'flatness'.
Take a note, new people. Do it right the first time! Otherwise, you'll be spending a lot of time and/or money later to make it right!
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Can we get some info on the exact make and model of the hooks used on the calves? I don't see anything about that in the OP.
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Very useful information, as always, guys. Thanks so much. I will do a combination of sanding and heating to get them on nice and flat.
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Yeah, I figured as much. At least the weather is getting nice. TIme to go outside and make plastic cocaine! These are the final mods and I will be posting the exciting conclusion of this build in my build thread soon!
One more question: How about removing leftover e6000 and CA glue. I have both. Don't ask why lol.
The CA sands fairly easily, but e6000 is like gum! should I hit it with some testor's paint thinner?
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I'm currently putting the final touches on my kit and I don't like the amount of gap between the front cover strips on my shins and the butt joint. I used e 6000 to glue them, which made them (fairly) easy to remove. Now the question is; how do I get them to sit flush? My magnets are small and kind of weak for this application. I am borrowing a friend's heat gun. WHat if I hit the strip with the heat gun before laying it on? The issue comes with the uneven surface created by the butt join. I may sand the holy heck out of the uneven surface until it's flat enough. Would that work? I'm doing major PLASTIC surgery here! (THat can't possibly be the first time someone has made that joke on this forum). WHat do you guys recommend for going back and 'fixing' the gappage? Should I cut new strips completely?
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I'm 5' 10 and 160 lbs. Anyone about that size with an ATA and pictures of it? I can't rely completely on the screencaps because my kit is pretty different. Perhaps if I had a TM kit that might work better.
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I just saw this pop up in my news feed:
http://trooperbay.com/stormtrooper-ankle-boots/
They look a tad shiny IMO. I could be wrong. Anyone have these?
Black Amazon boots to paint?
in Boots, Soft Parts, and other Accessories
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I have a pair of TK boots and I don't like how wide they are at the top. They don't fit under my shin armor. Instead of getting the white leather boots most folks get, I'd rather get a pair of black Chelsea boots and paint them. I did look them up and there were quite a lot. Is there a favorite in the community for this purpose? Thank you all so much in advance!
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