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  2. Ok thanks, I'll have a look for am and RT kits
  3. I made some progress over the last few days. Installed some snaps and rivets, I still need to paint the rivets white on the chest plate. Added buttons to chest plate: Added a hook to the back of the bicep plates to keep the elastic in place. I assume this is ok? The shoulder bells seem big but we'll see what the final fit looks like. Also need to clean up/trim those cover strips on the biceps. Fits seems fairly good but a little off centered/rivets don't line up and would like this to look a little cleaner. I may need to lower the back piece a little by making the elastic in the shoulders a bit longer. Suggestions and feedback?
  4. Today
  5. Hi, roger that. Will do and post the new photos once ready.
  6. For the chest and back are the return edges removed? It looks like they are in most of the photos I have looked at but can't really find any ware that says yes. Also is there a rule of thumb on the distance between the chest and back on the shoulders? mine are almost touching and I think I may need to trim some off.
  7. Looking great Dave!! Good luck with your EIB application.
  8. I’ll start a thread in the 3D section with all the details. In the meantime, here are some pictures of the assembled blaster. Now for some sanding and painting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Hello, I am trying to post my 3D files to the open run section, and I can't seem to get it to post. Says I don't have permission to post in that area. This is to allow people to purchase my TK files to print their own armor, and show where my armor came from. Finally have all my files rounded up.
  10. Hi and thank you for your EIB application. Mario is correct, no decal is allowed and needs to be removed. We are going through several applications at the moment so there’s time for you to remove it and post new photos
  11. Hi from Melbourne [emoji4] My advice is two-fold. Don’t let the blaster (or lack thereof) hold up your basic approval. It’s not required and you can add it later. Secondly, if it’s an either/or situation go for the E-11. As you’re wearing a holster you can easily stow it, unlike the DLT which you’ll need to lug all troop. Also, consider where you’re going to be trooping. I can’t speak for NSW, but in VIC many of the public places are becoming weaponless troops - further to that IIRC hospital and the likes of Ronald McDonald House are weaponless as well. Indoor troops vary, but space is generally limited, and a large weapon (and backpack if you’re doing a HWT, Magma or Sandy) becomes uncomfortably unwieldy (think of a packed Oz Comicon or SupaNova venue). We’re also finding our booth space is being limited more and more down here, and at the last Con we pretty much told troopers to stow all gear, including weapons they couldn’t carry, in their cars. HTH Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I need also the inner grip frame... This is going to be an awsome project! Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk
  13. That sounds really promising! Thanks for sharing that with us! Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk
  14. Thanks! The trigger assembly, inner grip frame and grip have been molded separately so hope that turns out well.
  15. I will definitely order your molded parts bro if you are selling! I am very excited on the trigger assembly which is the missing piece on my e-11. Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk
  16. Thanks to a great friend, Derrek (DDay), I was able to obtain some nice sterling smg parts. Thank you billions Derrek! His kit paved the way to a whole new era of E-11 kit building and these parts were the backbone of his endeavors. Also these parts are in fact the exact ones seen in the Blaster Reference Photo Compendium. Some parts I have added to the lot recently for alternative molding choices and some to replace (the bolt). I am honored to be the next caretaker and hope to see what new life I can add to them. Another special thanks to Aaron (Usaeatt2) as he was instrumental in bringing each piece to its full glory. He put a ton of work into making these parts ready to mold part for part. He also helped guide me on a number of things with these parts like how to remove the D ring from the end cap undamaged. His knowledge on these parts has been invaluable and deeply appreciated. Here is what I have in total: (Some parts missing from the photo as they were being molded. Some smaller pins/springs and parts are missing and I will replace at a later date. The only main part I do not have yet is the barrel) Over a 2 week period during the midnight hours of my summer break I was able to make molds of the parts. Hoping to test them out soon. Unfortunately I had to leave the parts back home to avoid breaking any international laws. TSA actually upheld the box of molds and it was forwarded to me a few days after I got back to Japan. Luckily there is not offense to send silicone gun part molds abroad. So for now I will cast what I can with the molds and also create sub castings as my master molds for future castings until I get back to the US in the future. This is just a test and see project so hopefully the results will be good. Already there are amazing other resin blaster kit/part makers like RA Props (http://www.stormtrooperblaster.com/the-stormtrooper-blaster-project.html) and Doopys is not a bad option if you successfully get one, but since casting the resin scopes I have always wanted to try my hand at casting real sterling parts. I am not expected these to be extremely clean castings. These will be fairly raw with potentially lots of areas to fill or sand. No pressure pot to use as well so that puts a cap on what I can achieve as far as total quality goes. Stay tuned for updates in the coming weeks.
  17. Hi Mario, thank you for the observation. Actually this is the decal of our garrison and it's a part of our safety policy.
  18. Done. Another little "accident" : I use latex glowes for painting. They're full of a white powder (talc ?). I didn't see with the first layer that the powder goes everywhere and I can see my fingerprints when I take the parts. Fortunately the powder is easy to remove. So one advice : wash the glowes before painting !
  19. That's a great start. Bring on another HWT!!
  20. I would line up the kidney and abs and make your measurements for the shims. The rest seems like you have a handle on this. Good Luck
  21. The ears are going well though. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
  22. So I'm a complete beginner when it comes to building buckets. So far I'm doing alright, but I'm not sure where I should trim to for the opening. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
  23. Its a gorgeous piece of work. Glad to see more DA Props kit on this site. Not a lot of that here for those of us who’ve ordered from the shed!
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