TK50166

tape it in place first, then add popsicle sticks and clamps to hold you can never have too many clamps bicep piece done very similarly, make sure to measure first, vader won't mind! use the scissors on the curvy parts time to score and then snap! it is trimmed and ready make more inner cover strips, cut, round the edges, sand and measure down the middle now clamp it down and let it dry, shins, forearm, bicep, and thighs are drying now

now that we got our lines we are going to score them with razor blade then snap down the line then break them apart. this is the method used on all the abs pieces do the same thing on the other side. use your first one to draw the lines for the second one, then cut it out as well were gonna need to make some more cover strips even cover strips need to have straight lines strips are ready to go apply the e6000

hold shin together with tape, then wood strip to keep pressure even, then clamps we got two shins drying for 24 hours to let the e6000 bond properly onto the arm pieces, they are identical so l and r doesn't matter shave out the extra meat with a dremel will make them more comfortable and fit better nice and clean on the inside now do the same thing on the other pieces as well now time to fit it to your arm and draw your lines make sure your hand can fit through but make it a snug fit like the picture shows

heres the pics from day 2.... peel off the tape on the pieces that we had glued previously here are the shin pieces this would be the wrong way to have the shins look in the end...bowing out this is the right way with curvy parts on the inside and no bowlegged... use the razor blade to clean out all the glue that overflowed, to make sure you have a nice flush fitting time for the e6000 get it on there good and thick use the popsickle stick to get the glue good and even

finally the helmet has some holes in it! use the corners of dremel to get into the cracks and make it smooth lots of polish on eyes and teeth to make them as smooth as possible once you get the helmet where you want it, its time to pop in some rivets alot of time looking at pics and getting the brow to a good place, fit in the rubber and measure to fit that is all for now, more to come soon!

here it is taking shape onto the dreaded ear pieces, best to go slow and take your time with all the curves drill the holes for screws use the dremel to shave down the teeth, leaving the 3d look, but lots of filing to make them look clean the teeth are rough at first take alot of polish to get right use the dremel cutter to get the eyes trimmed out

while all those parts were drying and all my clamps used up, onto the helmet!!! all the parts spread out of the awesome ATA ABS kit, it really is a nice set. the bag of extra goodies, be careful not to lose... alot of trimming involved at first to get rid of the extra ABS the inside of the mask with nothing cut yet. trace the lines on the back of the bucket so you have a guide for the trimming some extra trimming on the base of the helmet also

make sure to round off the edges of the covers so they dont cut you up apply the e6000 and then use popsicle stick to get it nice and even across use lots of clamps and tape to get good seal, use wooden strips to help evenly distribute the pressure thighs and shins setting for 24 hours to allow the e6000 to do its thing...

Greets, I had the pleasure of starting my ANH Stunt build yesterday. I am building with an AM lite kit and a ATA ABS bucket kit, aiming for an expert status build. Yesterday Carolina Garrison Expert Infantryman Rogue Trooper joined me and we spent about 10 hours getting this project underway. Here are some tools of the trade 1. Scotch blue painters tape 2. Metal ruler at least 2 feet long 3. Dremel 4. Various sand paper types 5. Good pair of hobby scissors 6. Pencil, Pen, Crayons 7. mm measuring tool 8. reference materials - books, photos, websites with original pics 9. E6000 - The best glue out there 10. Sheet of HIPS plastic for butt join covers 11. xacto knife 12. drill and drill bits I'm sure im forgetting some, but anyway onto the pics... Shins and Thighs lots of measuring and trimming in order to have the butt joints fit properly use hobby scissors for the curvy parts, and the scoring and snapping method for the flat straight parts use the metal ruler to make sure your lines are straight, they are flexible and can be held with clamps just break away the extra, it seems like your going to hurt the plastic, but after a few you will get the hang of it. cut strips of hips for the joint covers, doing inner ones first time for the e6000 and to attach the inner covers

Its painting time I filled in all of the screw holes, overfilled, and then sanded down to make it flush again added a layer of primer krylon paint next I added a layer of silver paint for the weathering effect I had read that the scope weathers gold, so i went back and added a gold undercoat of silver effect now onto the satin black krylon for plastics first coat. I tried to make this coat thin and even more pics to follow! Let me know what you think...

when that dried i added the gun barrel tip with led still visible next was the d-ring and made sure to get it straight and even added my shorter t track leaving the 1hole exposed like the reference pics i saw on right side added this last bit on top of magazine thats all for night 2. next will be filling in holes, sanding and painting. Stay tuned! Here is what she looks like up to this point lemme know whatcha think!

well night two is complete, here is the newest dummies guide update thanks to the advice i got some awesome glue, this stuff rocks i tested with the magazine piece and by 20 mins it was bonded solid i started with the bottom and side pieces and used painters tape to hold it tight while it was drying i put on the bottom end piece, and let gravity help this and the previous pieces bond while still upside down i added the folding stock piece and again just used gravity to let it adhere after the bottom pieces were solid i flipped the gun over and attached the scope piece while scope was drying i also added this piece i then worked on the left side of the gun which was the magazine clip and t track, layed gun on its side and used gravity for 20 mins or so

Greetings, I am on a mission to join the 501st and reach Elite status, so I am modding a hasbro with a doopydoo kit. I have just about zero crafty skills, so this really will be a build for dummies or novices. I will be taking all necessary steps to meet Elite with this build. Please give me some feedback and let me know your thoughts... Here is the object of my affections, my fresh from wallyworld stormtrooper blaster, love that paint scheme! My hot command center, with white armor on laptop handy, and can of NOS energy drink and random supplies Here is the one piece i glued right out of the gate to see if the glue i bought was any good. It wasn't, so i will have to get better glue, but there is plenty to do first Sanded off all the trademarks and fine print Dremeled/Sanded off the t track on this side, this is a necessary step for having elite blaster Dremeled/Sanded off blaster tip, keeping led intact Chopped off front of scope also figured out where i needed to drill my holes, again for the elite requirement here is my gun with holes, gonna have to work on them, a little ugly, did i mention i have no skills at this stuff, time to touch them up with xacto knife and sanding hollowed this piece out, again gonna have to do some heavy sanding to make this not look sloppy! dummies build day 1 is over, glueing and painting will be coming soon!!!

I am looking for the best option for helmet, I have a big head and wear glasses. I would also like to put some electronics in eventually as well. I am leaning towards AM/FX, but from what I've read, many people like different helmets better. Which helmet would be ideal for my situation, looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance.