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sandtrooper

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Posts posted by sandtrooper

  1. 14 minutes ago, FN-1313 said:

    Good idea. So everything looks great! His V5 kit is a lot smoother and refined for sure. I will pull it all out and get pics tonight. Now I did notice that there are parts that seem thin. I assume some fiberglass resin and fiberglass cloth would be best to thicken and strengthen those parts, correct?

    I'm building Jim's FOTS kit.  Look to see if there are any cracks on the outside of the pieces.  If there are any it would be a good idea to add fiberglass mat and resin to those areas.  It would also be good to re-enforce areas that will have stress on them or will be flexing.  Good luck with the build!

  2. Thanks for the response on the paint booth!  That is similar to what I'm contemplating with a PVC frame.  It will be placed in the garage but there is limited space and would like it to be positive pressure as well.    Using automotive paint is why the booth is needed - want to keep dust away.

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  3. Thanks for posting your build process for the RO TK, Jeff.  I have enjoyed reading about your progress.

     

    I'm curious what you are going to use for a paint booth.  It is something I'm contemplating for a current build using a spray gun, so have looked at some videos on line and some other tutorials.  The main issue is whether to build a full sized "room" or go for a desktop approach.  I would like to know what you have in mind.

    Thanks.

  4. I'm following Jon Watson's building method since he originated the whole costume from scratch.    A gray filler primer has been used to find the problem areas.  Then switching to white filler primer for at least three coats and wet sanding.  The paint is an automotive type with clear coat mixed in.

  5. 3 hours ago, wook1138 said:

    Light sanding should do it - "let the sandpaper do the work", as they say.  I start with coarser paper on my first coat or two of primer (I use filler primer) - like 100 or 150 grit, to do your heavy lifting if needed.  Then work up to about 300.  By my second or third coat, I'm sanding up to at least 600 grit paper.  Depending on the finish I'm going for, I'll sand and polish up to 2000 or 3000 grit paper/polishing sheets.  Most of my experience has been sanding 3D prints - I usually stop at 600 grit for blasters.  ABS sanding I will go to much finer grits and eventually Novus polish and cleaner.  Not much help when it comes to fiberglass specifically. 

     

    I always try to use circular patterns when sanding - whenever I can.  You don't want to gouge out putty or filler that is along seams or, in my case, print lines - so sanding perpendicular to these sorts of features is a good idea. 

     

    The best advice I can give is do lots of sanding and polishing with the primer layers.  Take your time.

     

    By the way, FO snowy - Nice!  That is awesome armor!

     

    Thank you for the response.  How many layers of primer do you usually shoot?  I take it the Novus is used before adding the paint or is it after?  Thanks!

  6. Hello everyone, 

     

    My current project is a jimmiroquai FO snowtrooper kit that will require the armor to be painted. 

     

    Other builds have mentioned wet sanding for primer and the paint coats.  What technique is used for wet sanding in the sense do you lightly sand or really lay into it?  Also does the direction of the sanding strokes matter?

     

    Currently the armor has been sprayed with gray primer to find pin holes and bubbles that were filled with putty.  The parts have been wet sanded with 400 grit sandpaper with the result being a lot of the primer is gone.  Next will be multiple coats of white primer, sanding, then the final paint.

     

    Any help/advice would be appreciated.  Thank you.

  7. On 5/18/2018 at 6:02 PM, TKSnake said:

    Looks like group rates start on June 5th when tickets go on sale, but there's no telling how much of a "savings" it will be.

    How do the group rates work?  Do you have to have roomates lined up before the rooms are available?

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