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TK2233

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Posts posted by TK2233

  1. Yup, seen you there :-)

     

    Kev, the UKG CO tells me that he's also *just* received your request to join the boards. He tells me it's been actioned and that you should now have access. Look forward to seeing you over there.

  2. I've been trying to figure out whether I'm going to paint my TX or just use the vinyl... if I paint the helmet then I will also cut out the "grill" type pieces, black screen the back and add fans to provide a functional vent.

     

    If anyone thinks that mod will keep it from being 501st ready please let me know. I think it would look really crisp, neat, and of course very functional. I want a suit that looks like it could actually be used.

     

    Definately drill between the teeth and then enlarge the holes to shape carefully them using needle files. Try to get the right shape though by following lots of reference pics. Then mask it all off and spray the teeth silver. AFAICS Humbrol #11 looks like a good match to my MR. Once that's done you'll need to put black screen at the back too. Lots of options here, but I use black-sprayed window screen.

     

    This will certainly not keep it from being 501st approved. In fact, over here, if I didn't cut out the gaps between the teeth, it wouldn't get approved.

     

    Then you've got to ask yourself about the colour of other details. I believe that standard TK decals are 501st approved colours, but to my eye, dark blue on black just doesn't look right (i.e. the tube stripes). Nope, I'm going the way of the MR Ltd Ed lid and using matt black decals throughout: tube stripes, teardrops and the ones around the crown. Matt black for the vocoder and ear tips.

     

    Good luck buddy. Post pics eh?

  3. Fusion: Spray 1 coat and wait for 7 days. Then, wipe clean and spray another coat.

     

    Let it sit for at least 20-30 days, then wet sand with 1500 grit sandpaper. When dry,

    use a polishing compound and it will be glossy.

     

    Excellent, thanks :)

     

    Would you also agree with this:

     

    Gloss fusion is glossy if you know what you're doing. You put two good coats of fusion on, let them cure for 3-7 days. Then you wet sand the finish with 1500 grit, it should be perfectly smooth with a matte appearance. Then you buff it out with polishing compound. You will see yourself in the finish it will be that glossy. After 30 days apply a high quality, clearcoat safe (i.e. non stripping) wax. You're good to go. It's nice to have body shop professionals in the family to get tips and secrets from...

     

    I'm a total newb at this, so what polishing compound would you suggest?

  4. Any luck with getting the Rustoleum Pro-Enamel in the UK? I've tried and come up totally dry :(

     

    To be honest though, I'd prefer Krylon H2O since it's way glossier. But I can't get that either :angry: Really looking for it in super-glossy Black for a Stealth Trooper helmet. All I can get over here is Krylon Fusion, but that's nowhere near as shiny. Any ideas anyone?

  5. The picture is darker than what I see. The H2O is as bright as 96+ brightness paper, and it is glossier than anything else I've seen out of a rattle can.

     

    Does anyone have any idea how glossy Krylon Fusion is? Wanting some in Gloss Black, and it needs to be insanely glossy!!

  6. Yay, I've just finished putting mine together ... here it is ...

    ---------

    Hope you like. Using my MR Ltd Ed helmet for the time being until my TM one eventually turns up. Don't think I'll actually dare to troop in the MR lid though ... it cost me way too much!

  7. Looking very good indeed there Terry. Feels good, doesn't it ? :D

     

    Just a few little things that I'd mention:

     

    1. Do you have a holster? It will need to be in place for any clearance pics, on the left hand side (for an ANH trooper), preferably
    2. You'll also need to have your blaster in your hands for clearance
    3. The drop boxes should be more to the sides than at the front
    4. The buttons supplied with the FX are just plain wrong; they're all black and too large. I would recommend doing yourself some more screen-accurate ones in the correct colours. I used upholstery pins and the correct Humbrol paints for mine (#5 and #15), but I'm not sure if you can get Humbrol over there in the USA. Still, I'm sure you can get something close in colour. Alternatively, VaderDave on this board does some really nice ones, all ready to go. For reference pics of the correct ab buttons, look 3/4 down on this page

     

    Nevertheless buddy, you've done a great job! You deserve to be very proud of yourself.

  8. Darth_Nickel said:
    Here you go.

    -------------

     

     

    Is that the HERO one that's being talked about here? I thought the "new" Hero one was something entirely different, as mentioned in http://www.starwarshelmets.com/ under Master Replicas-> ANH Stormtrooper (Hero).

     

    I had thought that, in light of MR losing the Lucasfilm license, this would be cancelled.

     

    Now I'm officially confused :unsure:

  9. This is what I've been wondering about. I like your setup Wally.

    Is it a good idea to permanently connect the thigh pieces to a harness? (well, connect with glue)

    I was thinking about using two straps from a harness for each thigh (one with velcro, and one with two snaps)

    What's everyone else's opinion from experience?

     

    I use the belt and suspender system. Works a treat.

     

    For my part, I just use a substantial leather belt and have sewn loops at one end of 2 lengths of 50mm wide black elastic. The belt passes through these loops. The other end of the elastic will be taken care of below.

     

    For the thigh armour, I have cut small squares of syrene (we call it plasticard in the UK), 1mm thick and maybe 2cm square. I have then mounted the male part of some camping snap on this. Then used E6000 to glue these squares to the inside of the top of the leg armour.

     

    Back to the belt. Put it on and also your leg armour. Meaure how long the elastic which is danglig from your belt needs to be, to provide a bit of pull, but not being fully stretched, and mark the position where the female camping snap will go. Take it all off and sew the end of the elastic double, then mount the female part of the camping snap on your mark, facing outwards.

     

    Now you put the belt on, pull the leg armour on and snap the snappers into place and hey presto, stable and comfortable.

     

    Hope this helps.

  10. Thanks guys, you're the best. I'm so gratified at all the offers of help in this. I've arranged with VaderDave that he's going to get me some and ship them to me. I've ordered 10, so if anyone else in the UK needs any, just let me know and I'll be able to spare some.

  11. Hi fellow troopers,

     

    Can anyone over there in the USA supply Banker's Clasps for mounting Thermal Detonators to a belt? I know that Staples do them over there, but not over here in the UK.

     

    These are the puppies:

    moneyclips.jpg

     

    Any help would be appreciated.

     

    Chris

  12. Yep, and the UK gov is using the same excuses to do the same thing. :angry:

     

    They certainly are! Control by fear. Smoke and mirrors. Keeps the mind of the populace on what an utter cods they're making of running the country and also allows them to slip in all sorts of Big Brother measures to degrade our liberties yet further. Be gone, Brown.

  13. How about using a hole punch to punch out a perfect circle in the masking tape? Either a punch that you punch paper with (if that's the right size) or leather punches, which you can get in lots of different sizes.

     

    Also, years ago, I managed to get low-tack plastic masking sheets (used for custom car painting, looks like the stuff you can cover books with) which avoids the bleeding underneath problems. You must still be able to get it. It was brilliant stuff.

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