[100% Authentic ANH Hero Stormtrooper build (1st gen from screen-used hero)]

The lucky one is the someb who owns the original armor.

[M38A1 consensus: yay or nay]

Is this an A2? When the Falcon first lands in the DS.

 

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[A banned member:banned for many reasons (gino)]

Never assume anything. Gino rarely sold helmets to anyone in the past so no bad deals. His helmets are closer to the source than anything currently out there and thus go for a higher price.

[A banned member:banned for many reasons (gino)]

Who found the part and didn't get paid? As far as the reward thing goes, think about it for a sec. Why would you expect someone to share something he has basically just 'paid' for? It was up to him to share the info if he wanted to. I felt his query was misinterpreted and everyone joined in in trying to find the part. Heck, even I did and was bummed when he said he found it but I didn't think that he was required to share what he found.

[Where to get the best/most accurate E-11.]

I think you need one for accuracy/display and one to troop with. The choices for me would be display: real sterling, trooping: hyperfirm. Best of both worlds. A deactivated sterling is impractical for trooping because of its weight. I'd also be worried it would get stolen.

[2010 TrooperMaster Helmet ESB Style]

That looks very vintage!

[Installing a hard hatliner in your AP bucket?]

I just took the liner and hot-glued it in. If you get one wrong, you can just give it a good snap and the glue will break free. Once it is where you want it, cut some strips of industrial velcro with the adhesive backing (fuzzy side) and put those over the four points of contact for extra strength.

[Armor Transport]

I use a big equipment bag that I got at the sporting goods store. Sling it over my shoulder and I'm good to go. I don't recommend storing resin guns in it though.

[New TM Decals on my new TM lid]

That is the cleanest helmet I have ever seen!

[MG-34]

I did get them from a guy here in OZ, so it is likley that it is your mold.

They must have been some good molds because the detail in it is still exceptional. (Stamps on the stock, distance guaging on the sight)

Also I am about the 50th person to get a kit from him.

 

 

Sweet! My casting guy must have gotten tired of casting them because he told me they were fast approching the end of their useful life!?! He did finally manage to cast the barrels totally hollow without the pvc pipe by pulling it out at just the right time, but he only made a few. I really need to finish mine.

[MG-34]

That looks like my gun. Did you get it from a gent in Australia? Don't worry, I'm not screaming recast. I sold the molds to someone down there.

[Putting in a ROMFX into armor (AP helm)]

What kind of helmet is that? I think helmet size will determine if you put everything in there.

[Putting in a ROMFX into armor (AP helm)]

I attach the romfx/speaker/amp to my suspenders under my chest plate. I run the wire underneath my neckseal to a headset I wear under the helmet.

[My Stormtrooper SDS ANH display]

That is a nice setup! The TK totem pole.

[New armor from the master.]

excellent job there!

[More rare TK pics]

I seem to remember him getting rather offended at all the questioning that came his way.

[Who's Scruffy Looking?]

Natural weathering is great. It's fun finding a new mark. I have a blue scuff that I have no idea where it came from. lol!

[color of buttons]

Midnight blue is too dark for the ab buttons IMHO.

[Another TE2 suit coming up.]

Wow. Threads like this make me want to dig my armor out of storage. Looks great so far!

[Best place to get leather dye?]

You should just spraypaint them flat white. The originals were all beat up looking with the paint coming off anyway.

[Real vintage M38 / M19 scope]

I agree, stuff like this only gets more rare everyday. If I got my hands on it, I'd probably keep it till I die.. and maybe get buried with it too. LOL

 

I got one for well under 200 the other day. They pop up from time to time on the rpf like that.

[where do these bits go????!!!!!????]

You can heat and reshape resin. Heat it evenly and slowly with a hair dryer or hot air gun. You can even dip it in boiling water, but that method is dangerous and messy IMHO. Once the piece is the way you want it, run cold water over it to 'set' it.

 

The two bottom pieces have to be the cylinders on top of the magazine. No idea on the other piece. Maybe it goes underneath toward the butt of the gun?

[TK or TD]

TD is gonna be more work/money.

[abs strips?]

Plastic welder is a 2-part epoxy glue that sets up in minutes and actually melts the plastic together. I wouldn't go too thick on the strips. If you put a snap through one like you normally attach a snap (there should be a piece on each side of the plastic), you lost that much surface area (diameter of the snap) for the glue to bond to. If the styrene is thick, it will have a harder time making contact with your suit because of the metal snap piece underneath. Wow this is tough to explain.

 

Another route is to just glue the snap piece (the top part of the bottom) directly to the armor. What you do is rough up the armor with some sandpaper first. I even rough up the bottom of the snap a bit. Then use gel superglue to glue it to the armor. While the glue is still wet, sprinkle baking soda over the entire snap. Really pack it on. The glue will set almost instantly. Blow the powder away and you're done. This may be a weaker method. I've had one snap pop loose doing this quick n' dirty technique. The others appear to be solid.

 

Super glue, Cyanoacrylate, or CA, is not as strong when resisting peeling (peel strength), or twisting or sliding forces (shear strength), but it holds up well when pulling (tensile strength).

[Started my GF kit today]

Spoke to GF. He says that it is an AP kit. No big deal really, basically the exact same thing. Well, he did mention that the AP has had some improvements made to it.