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Christian Dunham

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Posts posted by Christian Dunham

  1. On 7/9/2006 at 12:19 AM, Daetrin said:

    Request 501st status changes here.

    NOTE: we (the site admins) will periodically check the list of people in this forums database against the list of 501st members as kept by the Legion COG. People will be added or dropped automatically, so it's a good idea to ensure that the email address you use for this board is the same you use in the Legion records. If you need your status adjusted in between database checks, please post here.

    NOTE: You must include a link to your 501st record as per below, else your request will be ignored:
    http://501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=4733

    **Please test your link when you post your request to make sure it goes to your legion profile page.  We cannot use links for the Legion forum or Garrison pages.**

     

    1.  Go to https://www.501st.com/members/searchform.php

    2.  Input your TK number and "Search"

    5.  On the "Results" page click "More" to the right of your name

    6.  On this page that lists all of your costumes, copy the URL and paste it into this thread with your request.

    Tk-81170 

    https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=32698

  2. 35aabb961ba8c0d5f35a07b7c600e2ca.jpg

    I’ve been trying to do hot water baths for the past hour to try to get these to lineup but with no luck, I’m calling it quits right now but will be back at it again tomorrow! Any suggestions on what I may be able to do during the hot water bath to help my situation? Thanks!

     

     

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  3. I've seen a few people how have scaled down the chest and needed a new return edge make a plug, a wooden piece cut to the curve of the chest and held it behind then use more heat and mold to it.
     
    The problem with heating ABS is that it can revert to it's natural state the more heat you use, especially when not using a mold. 
     
    Using a small block of wood to hold on the other side too is a good idea to help push onto the mold
     
    Here is Christine's build she modified a few pieces so may be worth a look 
    [/url]  
     
    A couple of examples
     
    KK1O4Iv.jpg&key=e7199ee3a12c646ba7f56664a8f3430d843238ac647a8180092cea478e031789
    31650782526_9a562c1759_c.jpg&key=39b28698e772f6d89acac1f2a471634aa2b4ac8eca0c80cb579ac32c1a4f6a4031650785856_8e7d232922_c.jpg&key=aa1e75acb0a6bc3748739254b1df1a6a35dffd200829e7b5a262f3556284e1f2

    Thank you!


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  4. Hello all!! I’m currently in progress of assembling my ESB Vader over on the SLD, but I figured I had better have a back up costume for the 8-9 months of Tennessee heat. Two layers of wool and leather could get pretty warm...
     
    All that to say, I’m here to read up on some WIP threads and get a feel for how to build a TK. I’d really like to do a Rogue One TK when the time comes and from what I’ve seen from lurking, I think I’d like to go with an 850 Armor Works kit, or maybe ANH Kit from RSpropmasters. Thanks for having me!!
     
     
    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    Hey from Nashville


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  5. Hi, may be this can help.
     
    cheers
     

    === ANH DERIVED ARMOR ===

     

     

    Type: ATA (Affordable Trooper Armor)

    Country: USA

    Contact: Supertrooper on FISD / ATAworks@yahoo.com, please email for armor inquiries.

    Kit: ABS (HIPS by request), untrimmed, ANH derived

    Availability No known problems.

    Assembly: Armor needs to be trimmed, parts butt joined with finishing strips, HIPS needs to be painted.

    Comments: The quality of HIPS material is such that it is the most durable of all HIPS armor makes. ABS is a custom made ABS for color, gloss, and durability, so you can order it either way and feel confident.

     


    Thank you Spartan!!!


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    • Like 2
  6. You may find the color is off, there can be a color difference between the different makes of armor, I'm not sure how different it is between ATA and WTF
     
    You could also ask ATA for another set I know he will send out spares  

    Ok!


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  7. Looks like you've got the A team on it Christian, You couldn't be in better hands then with these two troopers.  
    Who's the armor maker? If all else fails I think I have a  extra set of WTF ears if you need them. 

    Hey pally are those ears still up for grabs?


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  8. Angling the ears forward from the bottom will reduce the gap, have a play in different positions and see if the gap closes up, some kits just won't give the "ideal screen angle" due to how they were formed. 
     
    I found ears to be the most diabolical part of trimming the whole kit.
     
    Some great threads on trimming ears, which may explain the process a little more.
    https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29238-my-helmet-ear-tutorial/
    https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27375-howto-draw-an-approximate-ear-trim-line-with-no-gaps/
    https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41250-ear-trimming-made-easy/
     

    Thank you!!


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    • Like 1
  9. Looks like you've got the A team on it Christian, You couldn't be in better hands then with these two troopers.  
    Who's the armor maker? If all else fails I think I have a  extra set of WTF ears if you need them. 

    Its ATA Thank you so much my friend! These guys are great! That is very kind of you I will keep you posted;)


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  10. Hey Christian in addition to what Dan is recommending you can also remove the ear and try adding additional screws or pop rivets to secure the two halves that are still overlapping, Since the ear will hide this area you can use as many as needed. 
     
    earsb.png&key=0501fb87bdac2e59cbd3381698b4e7e6ba41391287882b7bd7fd4fb91fea0594

    Ok! Thank you!


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  11. Hiya,
     
    Thanks for the extra photos.
     
    I think the first thing to look at is how the faceplate and back/cap are aligned. I noticed from the below shot that the two parts don’t really meet;
     
    e3b83784633bf2a4f98f43c7636053c2.jpg&key=2f642c5dffbe3a924f0699387a7f6ed3e3c3ac5625146c94c3fd7c8c9260c985
     
     
    I believe this is because the faceplate is mounted too high into the cap. Notice the green line on the screen used helmet. The eyes are roughly lined up with the rear line on the back/cap.
     
    ad577fff370f2a72caab5d582ce76ad1.jpg&key=d4f6f26d0830eee4444f6fb42bf69abd9a412c6716826600d02d7d7f809e4184
     
    c0481c391c67a2a2c910139a677a532d.jpg&key=80c969932eb4b454ee29788091613f859eb7f6f05c88b92cd900c50db55f4412
     
    It looks like your faceplate is mounted very high into the cap.
     
    I’d suggest removing the ears and adjusting the alignment to allow an overlap where the ears attach. Aligning the eyes, as above, will give you a more accurate appearance but also a more solid connection between the faceplate and back/cap.
     
    Once your alignment is sorted, you can then take another look at the ears and see how they match up.
     
    That would be my advice, however, I’m sure others will chip in too. :-)
     

    Thank yo soooo much!


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