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Posts posted by DarthDawg
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39 minutes ago, darthkenny said:
It’s the brittleness that worries me too. So for the effort of more sanding to not have it break may be worth while.
What’s xtc? I only know of abs, pla and nylon
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkit is a resin finishing product. It "smooths" the print to get rid of the print lines.
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Great topic… I can’t want to see some experiences from other makers.
I would like to do way more printing, but I have always been leery due to the brittle nature of 3D prints. Granted, using XTC does make them a little stronger.
Does anyone have experience with printing in ABS, Nylon, or NylonX?
I also think it is worth discussing what filament is best to use, and experience in finishing the print. I believe each filament requires a different work load.
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I think I've had it that way for a while, fixed it real quick:
Hi!
I'm working on a F11D and was wondering if you put the lights in the Counter and Meg.... and if so, how did you accomplish it?
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Welcome to GT
I work in Arlington and live in Burke, VA
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Hi all!
I hate to chime into this conversation, but I will.
I have a THG E-11. Mine is the uni-body design. I think much like everything else in the Legion, there are pro's and cons to every buy.
I agree that it took longer than I would have liked, but that is VERY common in the field of props. I have had extended wait times from very popular sellers. So to me, I'm not sure if that is a knock on Ron.
As far as the cast, mine was not perfect, but it was VERY good. My counter and scope are very crisp pulls (unlike pictured above). I did have a bubble in the screw on the body, but I just replaced it with an actual screw.
One thing I will say is that I found my version of E-11 VERY VERY VERY VERY hard to paint. I have since found out that using Rub & Buff is better than paint on his older style. I think he addressed it with his new formula, but I wish I would have known. To be fair, I'm not sure if the struggle was due to my inexperience with blaster building, or the product itself. I would just want to note, if you are struggling with the paint, I found that I basically had to let it dry for like 2 months. I'm not a chemist, so I have no idea why. Long story short is that it eventually dried.
As far as customer support... I'm in the middle of the road. I'll say that Ron is a really nice guy, and he DID try to address all the issues/communications that I had with him. An all out ban is probably a little unfair. I will say that the first blaster body he sent me was a bad pull, and when I addressed him about the issue, he sent me a replacement right away (which meant a lot to me).
I think the best part of the THG is the detail. A hyperfirm is lighter and easier to deal with for sure. But the cast I got has so many amazing details that carried over from the original gun. Perfect no, but very nice.
All that being said... if asked by a new trooper about a "low effort" approach to an e-11, unfortunately I probably now recommend a Hyperfirm. THG is suited for a more experienced / seasoned builder.
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Thank you all for the comments. Mine is not a HF, it is one of Blaster 8266's beautiful productions. It's solid, but I just want to protect it. I also am thinking that it is a "safer" and more responsible to carry it into a troop covered. I like the idea of a hard case, but I'm looking for a used price.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Hello fellow troopers!
I am super thrilled that I got a T-21 literally hours before my Rogue One trooping began.
Now that I have been out and about with it, I’ve turned my attention to protecting it and transporting it.
It doesn’t seem wise for a ton of reasons to carry it out in the open.
That being said, I was looking for advice and recommendations on what fellow T-21 owners use to protect/carry their BFGs?
Soft case vs. hard case… pro’s and con’s
Thanks
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Great build.
Question if I may. What did you use for the "locking pin" that is located on the right side, just above the grip/trigger? And how far does it stick out?
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On 12/19/2015 at 1:04 AM, cjdesign said:
I'm still going through with the real button using 10$ worth of parts from apex guns parts...
hi - Can you further guide me to the part you ordered on Apex? The screw that goes into the Sterling ammo pack.
Is it the Sterling L2A3 Magazine Catch Button Screw?
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If the shim is installed so that there is no seam visible then yes Centurion is applicable however the shim needs to be applied at the back of the armor.
Tony- First off – just an amazing post and resource that you have created here. This is my first armor build, and this reference has been priceless. Thank You!
Back story: I’m following your thread diligently, however I am 6’ 7” – 250 lbs, so I’m adjusting accordingly and only going for basic approval.
Question: Everything is progressing with my build well. I’ve shim’ed the biceps, shins, and ab piece (extending it 2"). My last real obstacle is the thighs. I have large thighs (like 30” at the widest), and I’m just not sure on how to approach the thighs.
My original idea is to use a bit of a larger cover strip on the front, and they add extra room in the back. I’m just not sure how to accomplish that. Especially the backside.
I was just curious if you had any advice?
Thanks
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Hi All - I'm also fishing around the board for tutorials on thigh shims for the Anovos kit.
3D plastic of choice
in General Weapons Discussion
Posted
What is PETG?