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DarthDawg

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Posts posted by DarthDawg

  1. 39 minutes ago, darthkenny said:

     


    It’s the brittleness that worries me too. So for the effort of more sanding to not have it break may be worth while.

    What’s xtc? I only know of abs, pla and nylon


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

     

    https://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B01BKSLI9M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518117707&sr=8-3&keywords=3d+xtc&dpID=21VHiSAVApL&preST=_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

     

    it is a resin finishing product. It "smooths" the print to get rid of the print lines. 

  2. Great topic… I can’t want to see some experiences from other makers. 

     

    I would like to do way more printing, but I have always been leery due to the brittle nature of 3D prints. Granted, using XTC does make them a little stronger. 

     

    Does anyone have experience with printing in ABS, Nylon, or NylonX? 

     

    I also think it is worth discussing what filament is best to use, and experience in finishing the print. I believe each filament requires a different work load. 
     

  3. Hi all!

     

    I hate to chime into this conversation, but I will. 

     

    I have a THG E-11. Mine is the uni-body design. I think much like everything else in the Legion, there are pro's and cons to every buy. 

     

    I agree that it took longer than I would have liked, but that is VERY common in the field of props. I have had extended wait times from very popular sellers. So to me, I'm not sure if that is a knock on Ron. 

     

    As far as the cast, mine was not perfect, but it was VERY good. My counter and scope are very crisp pulls (unlike pictured above). I did have a bubble in the screw on the body, but I just replaced it with an actual screw. 

     

    One thing I will say is that I found my version of E-11 VERY VERY VERY VERY hard to paint. I have since found out that using Rub & Buff is better than paint on his older style. I think he addressed it with his new formula, but I wish I would have known. To be fair, I'm not sure if the struggle was due to my inexperience with blaster building, or the product itself. I would just want to note, if you are struggling with the paint, I found that I basically had to let it dry for like 2 months. I'm not a chemist, so I have no idea why. Long story short is that it eventually dried. 

     

    As far as customer support... I'm in the middle of the road. I'll say that Ron is a really nice guy, and he DID try to address all the issues/communications that I had with him. An all out ban is probably a little unfair. I will say that the first blaster body he sent me was a bad pull, and when I addressed him about the issue, he sent me a replacement right away (which meant a lot to me).  

     

    I think the best part of the THG is the detail. A hyperfirm is lighter and easier to deal with for sure. But the cast I got has so many amazing details that carried over from the original gun. Perfect no, but very nice. 

     

    All that being said... if asked by a new trooper about a "low effort" approach to an e-11, unfortunately I probably now recommend a Hyperfirm. THG is suited for a more experienced / seasoned builder.  

  4. Hello fellow troopers!

     

    I am super thrilled that I got a T-21 literally hours before my Rogue One trooping began.

     

    Now that  I have been out and about with it, I’ve turned my attention to protecting it and transporting it.

     

    It doesn’t seem wise for a ton of reasons to carry it out in the open.

     

    That being said, I was looking for advice and recommendations on what fellow T-21 owners use to protect/carry their BFGs?

     

    Soft case vs. hard case… pro’s and con’s

     

    Thanks 

  5. On 12/19/2015 at 1:04 AM, cjdesign said:

    I'm still going through with the real button using 10$ worth of parts from apex guns parts...

     

     

    hi - Can you further guide me to the part you ordered on Apex? The screw that goes into the Sterling ammo pack. 

     

    Is it the Sterling  L2A3 Magazine Catch Button Screw? 

  6. If the shim is installed so that there is no seam visible then yes Centurion is applicable however the shim needs to be applied at the back of the armor.

     

    Tony- First off just an amazing post and resource that you have created here. This is my first armor build, and this reference has been priceless. Thank You! 

     

    Back story: I’m following your thread diligently, however I am 6’ 7” – 250 lbs, so I’m adjusting accordingly and only going for basic approval.

     

    Question: Everything is progressing with my build well. I’ve shim’ed the biceps, shins, and ab piece (extending it 2"). My last real obstacle is the thighs. I have large thighs (like 30” at the widest), and I’m just not sure on how to approach the thighs.

     

    My original idea is to use a bit of a larger cover strip on the front, and they add extra room in the back. I’m just not sure how to accomplish that. Especially the backside. 

     

    I was just curious if you had any advice?

     

    Thanks 

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