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DarthSarcasm

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Posts posted by DarthSarcasm

  1. Screen accurate have cut corners (some just round the corners) and mostly flat edge although some can be cut on an angle to follow the armor. Cut corners or rounded corners both are acceptable all the way to L3, same with the armor pieces, you can trim them so they are level at the tops or leave them stepped.
     
    gallery_12157_59_157947.jpg
    gallery_12157_59_206769.jpg
    gallery_12157_59_74335.jpg
    Thank you Sir!

    You are truly a Scholar and a Gentleman.

    Sent from my SM-G930T1 using Tapatalk

    • Like 1
  2. I think I'll try to get my wife to help me with my Duct tape Doppelganger tonight so I can start on the rest of my pieces.

    Being wrapped in Duct tape by a woman may have seemed exciting when I was younger, now it just makes me uneasy.
    ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
    "Aren't you a little chubby for a Stormtrooper"

    Quote courtesy of the wifey
    ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••

    Sent from my SM-G930T1 using Tapatalk

    • Like 1
  3. What paint are you using it looks very dark, should be humbrol No5:
     
    You may want to remove a little paint from the gums
    imageproxy.jpg.d567c9448c63a6e3ca011a98cf40b083.jpg
     
    It's Humbrol #5 alright. It's just the lack of good lighting for my phone/camera.

    I'll get more on those teeth tonight. Thanks for the speedy reply.

    Sent from my SM-G930T1 using Tapatalk

    • Like 1
  4. Nice work helmet looks great, if you wanted to you could add a couple of tweaks:

     

    The tube stripes should fall forward on the front of the helmet

    back //////////// front

    a75b8a066f57c1b745a6083884119cde.jpg&key=eacabccd2925d1809c858e01defb022a7fff9f6f12e341bb08dd774d181d312a

    00a63035f5a6bab81dc18d6d523bb9b6.jpg&key=531460c89e47313e9a140a7713176222260c89737bafd2e7af0367d197a72147

     

    Tube stripes should ideally be a pencil width from the cheek

    CYMERA_20201214_155311.thumb.jpg.2ee444f52c72b514e92261c5196fd7a5.jpgf8fc2c334cbe897fce4ce28b11858907.jpg&key=38e27a78bab23c2f71034d8769260de89005837e3bbe7592a42a48b885d08011

     

    You could match the sides of your vocoder, one side hump is a lot lower then the other and the tops don't match. Also the paint on the teeth should stop just short of the gums and not the full length of the teeth

    CYMERA_20201214_155311.thumb.jpg.2ee444f52c72b514e92261c5196fd7a5.jpg5882a886ffaf6a600db74814550fb6d7.jpg&key=6b417fd6eb1b4ccf4fcf4f97f03e59f53adc4b79365543821da0813c25ddeb4cX1el9Pp.jpg&key=9169781d97cd8592d3e0fdbf230d66b3c06d6ffc5c11857f8b9590056ff0af9e

     

    Just on the rear stripes they could be a touch lower.

    CYMERA_20201214_155349.thumb.jpg.ffcd1f3fc177c87cfde2b0f048ca5a8f.jpgDaveMANH06.jpg&key=04e929f9f95817f423b9e6f01feb735529f030e2fbd7d230920d3e6fde50ad35

     

    You've done a great job and these are just suggestions just to take it up a notch  

    Thanks, I'll make those changes. Good thing I got two sets of templates.

     

    Stay tuned!

     

    Sent from my SM-G930T1 using Tapatalk

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  5. 30 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:
    Dan has an nice documented RS build which may help
     
    There is a lot of tweaking with helmet builds, move one spot and it affects another spot, you will find most helmets will have a gap until pieces are pulled together, using magnets can help aligning things up

    GREAT! Thanks!

    Sent from my SM-G930T1 using Tapatalk
     

    • Like 1
  6. Most builders know that it can be a real hassle to marry up the back of the bucket to the front and keep everything from going akimbo (Akimbo is actually a Ewok word that loosely translates in basic as "To Sh*t) every time you make an adjustment. Since I can't afford the two extra cybernetic limbs I saw on Ebay and I don't think I'll be bitten by a radioactive spider anytime in the near future, I had to improvise.

    My remedy is, as you can see in the first photo, to make a Jig out of two pieces of scrap taped together and then I heat bended them to conform to the area above the lenses.

    2020-11-16_04-34-53.jpg

    Then I tapped it below the area I've chosen to be my brow line

    2020-11-16_05-03-55.jpg

    I back rolled some tape (Sticky side out) and stuck it under the center of the jig to give support so it does not slide down.

    And so it goes...

    Sent from my SM-G930T1 using Tapatalk

  7. So before everyone asks, all the tape is to protect the protruding edges so they don't get scratched when I move the bucket around. I tend to get really focused and take less care when moving it around.

    Now, on with our show...

    I'm working out where I want the brow to be above the lenses. I used blue tape to get a decent straight line that was equally spaced above the lenses.

    The bottom edge of the tape is where I want the bottom of the black rubber to sit.

    Now, Time for a station break...2020-11-16_04-19-02.jpg

    Sent from my SM-G930T1 using Tapatalk

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