[IMPERIAL BOOTS]

Checked my email this morning and found this message accompanying a credit Paypal credit for $80!  w00t! 

 

Thanks so much, Fracois and company!

 

Anthony congratulation, you bought the 421st pair of “421” trooper boots so we have your boots on their way to you plus a leather neck seal and of course here is your refund on your purchase. Keep Trooping ! The team at Imperial Boots !

[Rubie’s E11 blaster test build]

After cutting out the rail area it does leave some small gaps (on the top of the barrel, the bottom of the rail, and around the area between the scope and rail if you cut that out as well). I had to use strips of styrene cut to size to fill those gaps and just glued them in with CA glue. Once everything is painted black, you can't tell there were any gaps at all.

 

Easy enough.  Thanks!

 

Nice work, btw.

[Rubie’s E11 blaster test build]

Much appreicated, Bill.

 

I've learned a whole lot from checking out your build threads since I started checking out this forum.  Love the foamtrooper tutorial and even found myself the "receiver" from the clone commander build-a-blaster kit to build my own DLT-19 when I have some time.  Keep up the good work!

 

Tony

 

 

Hey Tony, if I remember correctly, there is no cavity where the plastic under the rail comes together; I believe it joins up. I believe you should be able to cut it right out without leaving a hole in the barrel.

 

Just open up your own Rubie's and verify for yourself if the plastic you want to cut out is flush with all the rest of the seam. If not, some green stuff or milliput can be used to fill the hole, and then you sand it gently when it cures.

 

Hope that helps!

 

Bill

[Rubie’s E11 blaster test build]

Hi all!  Been lurking for a while, but got my Rubies blaster in and starting work on it and figured I'd post a question.

 

I want to cut out the plastic between the barrel and scope rail like the OP did (great job, btw!) and it looks like once you do, there would be a long hole at the top of the barrel where the plastic has been removed.  Is this the case and if so, how do folks typically fill in this hole?  I know that this is an old thread, but with so many Rubies blaster mods out there, someone may be able to help me (hopefully).

 

Thanks a ton in advance.  This site is an unbelievable resource with some really great folks!

 

Cheers,

Tony

 

 

While waiting for a Doopydoo’s kit to become available, I decided to get a Rubie’s blaster as a test project. It's cheap and has a lot of the necessary bits already attached, so not a lot needs to be added. And since it's a test build to get my feet wet, I didn't want to spend a lot on something better and possibly ruin it.

 

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Then I took out the screws holding the two halves of the blaster together and unscrewed the counter. I wanted to create a gap between the scope rail and the blaster (as done by Kawnr), so I tried using the rotary tool. I don’t have any cutting bits so I tried what looks like a grinding bit (I should probably learn what all these bits are for).

 

It was going fine until I noticed that I wasn’t staying straight and that the plastic wasn’t actually coming off. Instead of shaving off plastic, the rotary tool was melting it and pushing it behind the path I was moving the tool, then the plastic would solidify again. I ended up breaking out a hobby knife and repeatedly scoring the top and bottom of the plastic that I wanted to remove. Eventually I broke through to the other side and was able to remove the piece.

 

 

 

 

I also wanted to cut out the little section between the scope and the rail, so more knife work on both sides. I kind of broke the tip of the knife blade while doing this (pushing too hard in the corners) and I do believe I’m getting a blister on my finger. But the blaster is looking much better now!

 

 

-Richard