Marshall

Time for some updates. I've submitted my pics for recruiting (in Italy you have to go through a recruiting period of some months before been allowed to actually applying for 501st membership). Here are my latest pics. What do you think? Do you spot for any room for improvement? I've been asked to distribute a bit better the black zones along the legs by lowering the thighs parts, the fact is that I get pinched in the back of the leg whilst walking if I do that. I've raised the shins with some velcro retention system put on the top of the boots and I regained some centimeters, but maybe now the shins are too high? I've already bought some white elastics to put on the shoulder straps (not shown in these pictures). These would solve the positioning of the straps and also go towards Centurion requirements. I assume I have to take off some return edge in the junctures and also under the "bumpy line" in the forearm pieces, I didn't spot that parts earlier. But I assume "no return edge" means everywhere in the forearms...

Hi, I wanted to share with you my progress on my build. I've followed ukswrath build as a Bible for large part and added a few touches here and there. I did it quite slowly, having my box sitting in the garage since February and being able to work on the armour only since August. By the way, I'm almost 6'2", and I know that I'm a bit on the upper range for this kit, so I will have to deal with some black parts showing at the junctures, just hoping isn't that much. This is how I went so far. Please forgive the crappy photo quality and the transparent film still on some parts. I've used double snaps almost everywhere for my build, with nylon strapping as main material and elastic between biceps-forearm, garter-thighs, cod-butt, chest-back at shoulder junction and at the "Han Solo snap". I used E6000 glue for it being forgiving and this being my first build. I have Rob Kittel belt ready to assemble with the salvaged plastic ammo band from Anovos Armor, plus I've just glued Trooperbay hand guards on the gloves. I noticed that the right shin opened after a short while, even with the dual-lock velcro that I'm using. I was thinking about replacing the dual lock with industrial velcro as the one I have now is almost 0.8 cm thick, not sure is pleasant to see from a closer look. Generally speaking the armout shins are a bit shorter for my legs. I cannot lower my thighs more than that if I want to retain some walking capability Any suggestions (apart from adding the missing pieces )? thanks Niccolò

International delivery has definitely started! Mine is scheduled to arrive in Italy on the 4th of February. Ordered on the 27th of April. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Waiting in Europe (Italy) too. Still nothing as of today Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

That's the same route (building a power regulator circuit) I'm taking since I have to power the mp3 and amp with only 3v Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I'm slightly rewriting my code for a pro mini after development on an Arduino uno. The only thing to look at is to be sure you're using a 5v/16mhz pro mini as it also comes in 3v/8mhz format which can have slight differences in the effectiveness and project compatibility. As for pins, the number is almost the same if the Arduino uno bigger brother. It only has no power regulated 3v output so you have to arrange it externally Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Hi. Not completely sure of what you mean with drilling tube rig. I used a vertical drill stand loke this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bench-Mountable-Power-Drill-Plunge/dp/B00DIB300U with a pipe vise like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/251236157678?redirect=mobile. I then used a step bit to drill holes of proper size. I am not completely satisfied with the behaviour of this equipment. A vertical drill station would had done a much better and more precise job but unfortunately I had no access to such thing nor the space to keep one at home so I had to compromise. Regarding the Doopydos pipe kit, the quality is ok apart fort the obvious bolts which are unprecise and need to be replaced by real ones. Keep in mind that the kit has no counter, scope, power cylinders and t-tracks so you'll have to look somewhere else for this (doopydoos only offer separate counter and scope). Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

And last but not least, I managed to make a few progresses on the electronics too. I've tested and scripted the code for the LED strip and integrated it into the project. Here's my latest video: https://youtu.be/YcN6EHYpYY8 Hope you like it.

New updates. I decided to build the Hengstler counter myself so here's how it's coming:

yes, me too. As a matter of fact I'm still undecided on whether to buy a fake Hengstler counter from Doopydoops and hollowing out to make some room for electronics or starting from scratch and buy it from plasticard. I'm more inclined on the latter.

As for the Arduino code, here it is (should anyone be interested in it): #include <Wtv020sd16p.h> int resetPin = 2; // The pin number of the reset pin. int clockPin = 3; // The pin number of the clock pin. int dataPin = 4; // The pin number of the data pin. int busyPin = 5; // The pin number of the busy pin. //Set pin numbers const int buttonFire = 8; // Fire const int buttonSelect = 9; // Weapon Select const int buttonReload =10; // Reload const int ledPin = 13; // variables will change int buttonFireState = 0; int buttonSelectState = 0; int lastButtonSelectState = LOW; int lastButtonFireState = LOW; int buttonReloadState = LOW; int buttonSelectCounter = 0; int ammoCounter = 0; int totalAmmunition = 10; //set number of ammunition per round int held = 0; int held2 = 0; // long time = 0; long timeFire = 0; long debounce = 200; /* Create an instance of the Wtv020sd16p class. 1st parameter: Reset pin number. 2nd parameter: Clock pin number. 3rd parameter: Data pin number. 4th parameter: Busy pin number. */ Wtv020sd16p wtv020sd16p(resetPin,clockPin,dataPin,busyPin); void setup(){ //Initializes the module. wtv020sd16p.reset(); //initialization of the pins pinMode(buttonFire, INPUT); pinMode(buttonSelect, INPUT); pinMode(buttonReload, INPUT); pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); // initialize serial communication (for debug) Serial.begin(9600); //play start sound delay(600); wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(0); } void loop() { //read the selector button input pin: buttonSelectState = digitalRead(buttonSelect); // compare the state to its previous state: if (buttonSelectState == HIGH && lastButtonSelectState == LOW && millis() - time > debounce) { //reset the held counter with the latest reading (otherwise held goes bigger and bigger) held=held-held2; while (digitalRead(buttonSelect) == HIGH && held < 10) { delay(100); held++; } // if the state has changed and button has been pressed for less than 1 sec, increment the counter if (buttonSelectState == HIGH && held < 10) { //if the current state is HIGH then the button //wend from off to on: buttonSelectCounter++; //play change weapon sound ammoCounter=0; wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(4); //debug lines - REMOVE WHEN FINISHED Serial.print("Selector button pushed: "); Serial.println(buttonSelectCounter); Serial.print(" times"); } if (buttonSelectState == HIGH && held >= 10) { Serial.println("Long pressure detected"); } else { //if the current state is low, then the button wend from //on to off Serial.println(" off"); } time = millis(); } //if Select button has been pressed for less than 1 second, switch between blaster sounds if (held < 10) { //compare the fire button state to its previous and adjust for debounce buttonFireState = digitalRead(buttonFire); if (buttonFireState == HIGH && lastButtonFireState == LOW && millis() - timeFire > debounce) { //if we have status A use the normal blaster effect if (buttonSelectCounter % 2 == 0) { if (buttonFireState==HIGH) { //loop for finished ammunition if (ammoCounter>=totalAmmunition) { //play empty magazine sound wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(5); ammoCounter++; } //loop for remaining ammunition >0 if (ammoCounter<totalAmmunition) { digitalWrite(ledPin,HIGH); //play fire sound wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(1); ammoCounter++; buttonFireState=0; digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); Serial.println(“you shot: "); Serial.print(ammoCounter); Serial.println(" times”); } } else { digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); } } // if Select is in status B use stun blaster effect else { buttonFireState = digitalRead(buttonFire); if (buttonFireState==HIGH) { //loop for finished ammunition if (ammoCounter>=totalAmmunition) { //play empty magazine sound wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(5); ammoCounter++; } //loop for remaining ammunition >0 if (ammoCounter<totalAmmunition) { digitalWrite(ledPin,HIGH); //play fire sound wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(2); ammoCounter++; buttonFireState=0; digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); Serial.println("hai sparato: "); Serial.print(ammoCounter); Serial.println(" colpi"); } } else { digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); } } timeFire = millis(); } } //if the Select button has been pressed longer than 1 Sec, play Imperial March if (held >=10) { buttonFireState=digitalRead(buttonFire); buttonSelectState=digitalRead(buttonSelect); if (buttonFireState==HIGH) { digitalWrite(ledPin,HIGH); //Plays synchronously an audio file. Busy pin is used for this method. wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(6); buttonFireState=0; digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); } else { digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); } } // save the current state as the last state lastButtonSelectState = buttonSelectState; lastButtonFireState = buttonFireState; // store held value for Select button for next loop cycle held2=held; //check if reload button has been pressed buttonReloadState = digitalRead(buttonReload); if (buttonReloadState==HIGH) { wtv020sd16p.asyncPlayVoice(3); ammoCounter=0; buttonReloadState=0; } } it uses an external library to control the sound module. Such library can be found here: http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=117009.0;attach=34018

What really kept me away from significant advancements in the blaster construction was the electronic part. I did wanted my blaster to sound and flash like a real E11, so I can surprise kids at events but mostly because I'm a nerd^2 and a silent blaster wouldn't just do the part in my view. So I started looking for projects out there, got particular interest in Skyone project with Arduino, even if I knew almost zero of electronics. But since I have some coding knowledge, I I decided to go along that route. I want to "stuff" the Hengstler counter with most of the electronic components, so I had to go really small with their size. I orderd some pieces, an Arduino Uno with some components/jumper wires/breadboard kit to prototype all the project without too much problems/small spaces When I'll transfer all the components into the blaster I'm going to replace it with an Arduino Mini Pro: I then got a sound module working with microSD (wtv020sd16): to increase the volume I then got a small amplifier: and I also got a small couple of speakers (which I'll Mount into the aluminum tube right before the barrell: As for the laser/flashgun part, I decided to try RGB led digital strips such as this: I still haven't completed the light part, but I definitely wanted to share with you my latest advancement: There are (for now) 3 switches that control: - fire - select weapon mode (blaster / stun) - reload ammo I also added a feature that pressing the weapon selector button for more than 1 sec, the Imperial march would be played (got this idea from Skyone) I have to thank Skyone not only for the inspiration, but also for the sound fonts, they're really great. I think I would stick with these two blaster sounds by now (plus song and reload/empty/switchon effects). this is a video of the project working (please forgive my english and the stained table... ): https://www.youtube.com/watch/?v=qOeh0AWY-YI For now I think it's all. I'll post more updates as soon as I'll get the LED strip to work...

It's been a while since I posted on my project. It wasn't for the lack of interest but I started studying for a certification and working full time in an office doesn't help with that. Anyhow, I managed to make a few progresses. As I received T-Jay completion set, in order to improve the overall look of the blaster, I started to grind away some resin and replaced it with real nicer parts... first of all, I got rid of the plastic screw at the base of the grip, replacing it with some space for a real allen screw then I concentrated my attention to the muzzle with the same reason. I also went through it from part to part to allow some electronic updates (LEDs?).

6'2" and 165 lbs and bought the Anovos kit too... I'm pretty confident I'll find a way to face the odds. Good to know I'm not alone on this crusade...

So, I shortened the whole pipe to 18" 1/4 removing the excess from the bottom and leaving some 16mm to be overlapped by the hollow end-cap. After that, I started working on the muzzle, removing the "screws" and leaving some space for the one I'll get from T-Jay Completion set. I managed to remove some thickness of the interior part and now it finally fits my pipe. I also tried to balance the center hole of the muzzle as it looked oddly off centered. I'm still not quite convinced with the result and will probably fill the whole thing with some epoxy and then drill a new one. What do you think? I also got the impression that the whole muzzle is thought for a 40mm pipe and my 38mm drove me to remove too much of the outer rim of the muzzle base. Should I need to sand the middle part of the muzzle too to even that?

Time to resume some work. The dreadful ejection port still needs a lot to do. After my rough work I used a cylindrical high speed cutter with my dremel to grind all the unwanted aluminum, and later some sanding work to refine. I ended up quite satisfied with the result (minor spots to be fixed with filler later on). Yes, what you see in the background is the tiny brown box, just arrived today: a quick check to see if everything's there: and then straight to the sink to rinse off all the powder still on the surfaces After this, I decided to try seeing how some pieces would fit with my chosen pipe and got my first red light. The end-cap, the bolt and the muzzle are not correctly sized for my pipe. Maybe is this due to the fact that my pipe is a 38mm outer diameter and the DD kit is thought for a 40mm? Now some doubts. I can surely sand the muzzle and the bolt to fit into the pipe, but what about the end-cap? I can definitely thicken the pipe at the junction in order to better match the larger end-cap diameter, but I can also thicken the end-cap on the inside. What would be the best route for you? Thanks in advance for the help.

I've never tried, but I assume it would be hard.

This is the spherical cuttter I used to clean the internal aluminum flashing. http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=114 It took a while to get used to manouver inside the holes but after a while I managed to find the right circular movement and get rid of the thick flashing.

Hello there. Since I've ordered my Anovos TK kit like some of you out there, I've definitely some time to dedicate to other projects. In order to warm up for my "big brown box day", I've decided to give a shot and test my crafting skills by building my blaster. After some weeks spent researching this section and surfing over the net, I've come up with my own plan which (at the moment) includes: - 38 mm outer diameter aluminum pipe (2mm wall thick); - Doopydoos pipe kit - Doopydoos resin scope - handmade Hengstler counter (need a hollow one to house some electronics in the future) - T-Jays Completion Set - some T-Tracks ---> still have to find a good/reasonably priced kit - power cylinder ----> still looking for them I've downloaded some Sterling templates to drill and cut the pipe, and also to position all the kit in the correct places, so after adjusting the scale to match the actual measures, I've decided to start. I've decided to use a center-punch to have some starting/guiding holes for the step-bit in order to avoid wandering around and messing up with the final result Using the step-bit drill on a stand was definitely awesome. I've ended up with a nice result in a decent time and not hurting my neighbours ears for too long The downside was the aluminium flashing inside the pipe, which left me unsatisfied with the result. that's why I took my trustworthy Dremel and arranged to remove all the flashing with a high speed spherical cutter. Much better. time to cut the long charging handle hole. Having just a Dremel with some cutting disk is not going to be an easy task. I used two wooden boards with a cm gap in between to have something where I could make the pipe slide whilst I kept the Dremel with the cutting tool as still as I could. After about 40 minutes this is the final result (with some sandpaper to refine some spots). I still have to repair some imprecisions, but I think that with some filler this could be worked out. The ejection port has proven to be quite tricky to work with just the Dremel, therefore I decided to grind out the most of it and go with some sanding paper to have more control and refine the job. To be continued....