Bernarr
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Posts posted by Bernarr
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No problem! I've found it pretty useful myself
If you can squeeze a few more mm out of that space, this may work for you-http://www.all-battery.com/li-ion1865074v2600mahbatterypcbmodulewith22awgbareleads.aspx
You'd need another 1mm thickness and 7mm width, but it's a 7.4v pack with 2600mAh of juice
Or maybe this one-
http://www.all-battery.com/7.4v1150mAhLi-PolyLipoBatteryPackwithPCBandBareLeads-31165.aspx
Also 7.4v, but with a lower 1,150 mAh of juice, but it's a bit smaller, 34mm wide and 10mm thick
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What are the dimensions for the space you're looking to fit the battery into?
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I've been using this library for SD cards, it's for the Arduino, but maybe you can adapt it to your own use-
http://www.hackerspace-ffm.de/wiki/index.php?title=SimpleSDAudio
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Oh dude, vibration motors are good for that too! I've used them in pistols, and they turn out pretty well. They give a nice realistic kick.
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Why not use a normal microswitch instead of a magnet/hall sensor?
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I've done it both ways, it depends on owner preference in my opinion. One guy wanted blue on one side and red on the other. I've never heard anyone say it's wrong, so I'm curious why you say so?
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I can work something up for you a bit later, but I'm heading home from the office in a few minutes. I'm not sure what you wanted to use the hall sensors for, if you wanted to keep that under wraps, you can pm me with the pertinent info. The dual propray is fairly simple, Erv added an auxray setting as well. Did you want to use a pair of LEDs left/right for each position and color or just one LED? Personally, I think the left/right looks better, more realistic
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What color LEDs did you want to use for the propagation? Standard red? If so, here's the resistors and LEDs you can use-
For the propagation, you'd need 6 of each. In case you didn't know, with Erv's board and through-hole resistors, you'll want to kind of wind one lead of the resistor around the positive (longer) lead on the LED and tin it with some solder, then solder the other lead where the LED positive lead would go.
Obviously I was typing that as you were replying^
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If we add the numbers into the formula we get R = (9 - 3.3)/ 0.0025 = 228 ohm
But it isn't theory, because he gave you the work. You'd need a 228 Ohm resistor for each of your LEDs.
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Awesome job on this! If you have any electronics hookup wire laying around, that will usually hold its shape fairly well for that part of this weapon. Solid would probably be better than the stranded though.
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Page 8 of the PDF for BlasterCore has the specs on the LED hookups, 3.3v/25mA, I'm assuming it's regulated, since I didn't read through much of it as I don't own one myself. You can use this calculator to check what value resistors you should be using with your chosen LEDs-
http://www.superbrightleds.com/led_info.php
If you have any specific questions, I'd be happy to help!
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Now it makes sense LOL I thought you were using them to hear, not to be heard. You may want to double check your batteries though, the amp you posted wants 30-45v, not 13-20v.
Forgot to ask- would you mind linking the speakers you found?
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Enjoy!
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Do you have a link to the headset you were looking at? Not really sure what you're talking about!
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Ah, I just saw the skullworx setup. Were the 25w speakers for the voice amp so people can hear you? I think I got that part switched around..
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Are those the wires going to what looks like the mic in the first image? If they are, most likely your mic is connected there.
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It looks like an electret mic to me (first image). Are those wires near the middle jack connected to the middle jack or going somewhere else near it (Second image)?
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Most people use the construction helmet suspension or just a couple pads velcro'd/hot glued into their bucket. The suspension I'm talking about are like this one-
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The sound amp I'm working on is going to have 2 external mic pickups with a headset jack. So you could use either headphones, earbuds, or rip apart a pair of headphones and glue the speakers into your helmet. If I can't come up with something better, that's how I'm going to go, I think. I'm also working on a voice amp so you don't need to scream to be heard lol
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I have one of those on my list to work on, but I haven't actually started yet, beyond testing some base components. Did you get all 12v fans? You can run one of those on a 9v battery and it should be quiet enough.
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Easiest setup would be a 12v fan, a 9v connector, and a switch-
Pick a 12v fan- http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/220100/Fans/D.C.-Fans/1.html
Grab a 9v connector- http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/BST-7/9V-BATTERY-CLIP-I-TYPE-6-LEADS/1.html
Grab a switch- http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PB-13/SPST-PUSHBUTTON-PUSH-ON/PUSH-OFF/1.html
Did you want both fans on the same supply? If not, just grab an extra switch and a second fan.
You'll need a bit of wire as well, which you can pull out of any unused electronics stuff, or grab a roll, it's fairly cheap. If you buy it, make sure you get stranded and not solid wire. Stranded will flex and bend, solid will break after a while if you keep bending it.
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25w seems like overkill? Did you want to hear a pin drop from 50 yards away? You should be good with something way smaller, I've been working with 1-3 watt speakers and they have even been loud.
Building An Alternative to Blastercore: E-11 Sound/LED Board
in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance
Posted
Yep, definitely not surprised about the battery guys. Everything costs more in small batches! Inside the US you'd be fine, you'd just have issues shipping them internationally if you use the USPS.
Batteries don't weigh that much, I don't think it would make too much of a difference hanging off the side of the barrel.