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Posts posted by DAZZ
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You got it!
I'll post some more pics soon.
This is the real deal...
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Have fun & take your time, and don't rush with trimming without sizing it to you first.
To me, the thighs were a little deceiving. I'm in the middle of my build, but it worked out to fit perfect, trimming to fit the 7/8" strips.
Love the ATA kit so far
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I got my handplates from John as well.
I'm excited to follow your build. I started mine, but have been taking my time with it.
I'm buying a blaster & holster from Vern, otherwise I think I would make one too.
Have fun with it. The kit is pretty screen accurate, so don't let the "wonkiness" of it frustrate you like it has for me.
Everyone on the boards have great tips & advice along the way!
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I've moved on to thighs & shins & wow, what a difference! I've trimmed the butting joints to fit the 7/8" strips with no problem. I'll just need to trim a little off the thighs, but no worries there, I had to do that with my FX kit. I was so picky with fitting on my FX, that it consumed over 100 hrs trimming & assembly. I wanted to get the fit & look just right. Dang, that huge bobble head, though! . nothing I could do there. I am definitely taking time & patience with this build. I want to look great & I want screen authenticity.
I appreciate everyone's feedback on the questions that I have posted. This detachment has proven to give me more support than I had expected. You guys are awesome!
Hopefully, my build will be worthy to be called "Centurion"!
For the Empire!
In His Grip,
Darren
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So,
I'm putting together ABS ATA, & one thing that I definitely noticed was the difference in circumference and length of the forearms.
First of all, my arms are shorter than what the kit fits (no laughing please.. ), so I need to trim off about an inch of the forearms, & alittle off the bicepts, to get the picture perfect fit. I know that once I do this, the pieces will fit differently, with possibly more gap (especially for the forearms). I've already had to cut more off the back seam, so that both forearms somewhat fit the same.
Oh, and also, the left forearm is about 1/4" longer.
How much can I trim, and still make centurion? (that is if this kit starts coming together better)
Any opinions/advice?
Darren
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Thanks for your quick reply, Nick.
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I've got the decal kit from Mike for the ESB ATA helmet, but I'm having a hard time finding "direct" close-up pics particularly of the frown & vocoder/chin.
Is there painting between the teeth, but still under the lip, per say, or is is like the ANH helmets, with only the teeth done?
The vocoder on the ATA ABS helmet is not really that prominent, so I don't want to get dinged for centurion standards.
Can a Centurion please post close-ups of the frown & vocoder of their bucket?
Thanks!
Darren
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Paint is pretty cheap. It shouldn't be any more than 10 bucks total for all 3. I got the black and gray testors for 1.39 each and the model master blue for 3.29 at hobby lobby. It will be good to have the paint too in case it gets knocked around and paint chips off.
I didn't really think about that. ..Thanks!
I'll look up Hobby Lobby & see what's up.
Darren
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Does anyone have any paint left over that I could buy or borrow?
It seems like a waste for me, as I'm only going to use a little for the chin, frown, ears & ab buttons.
It would really help out!
I'm having to get alot of new stuff for this build, and money is tight (I know it's probably tight for most of us!).
Can anyone hook a brother up?
For the Empire,
Darren
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Awesome!
Thanks, Tom. Do you happen to have the model #'s for satin black - Humbrol or Testors
I want to be done with this helmet, moving on to armor
Darren
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Ok, try this one on:
I painted my ABS FX armor white (Fusion Plastic - it matched really well to the original ABS), and then had a clear coat sprayed over it, obviously for the shine factor.
So, here it is 2, maybe 3 years later & the entire suit & helmet are discolered to a dingy yellowish kinda color.
Anything I can do with it to get the yellow out, or am I stuck with having to repaint it. I don't want to spend the money on repainting, as I am currently working towards my ESB ATA build.
I figure that I can do a TD with some mods, and a new helmet, but the color will still remain unless I sand parts of it down to the original white ABS.
Any & all suggestions are appreciated!
Darren
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I'm going for ESB Centurion.
Is the frown & chin gloss black?
Colors on the ab the same as ANH?
Thanks!
Darren
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...yeah, that's pretty much the question:
What colors for both Humbrol & Testors paints are used for helmet & ab buttons.
I want to be "spot on". I've seen references to both gloss & satin/matte black for vocoder & chin.
Same goes for the frown. Ears? which gray , Black outline - glossy, or satin. You see where I'm going with this...
Thanks,
Darren
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Thanks, you guys!
All advice is greatly appreciated! And I had a different suspension system in my FX kit, but I'm going to try for a harness designed to snap the armor in place.
...still working on the helmet right now.
Again,
Thanks! (I'm sure you'll see more interests from me!)
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I'm on my phone now, so I'll keep it short but others might fill in later.
You basically have a return on all pieces except front forearms and bottom of the shins. those are missing for practical reasons obviously. Take a look on the various ANH and ESB centurion threads for examples.
Thanks Mathias.
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"chest has returns at the outside of the shoulder, bottom edge of chest has a very large return.
abdomen plate has large return at the top.
kidney has large return at top.
back plate has large returns on sides, and at top and bottoms. (makes it look thicker)"
Hey Vern,
Any idea of how thick those "large" returns are? 1/4 - 3/8"?
These are great tips,
Thanks!
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Not sure if this is where to post my costuming questions, opposed to posting in the general forum, but, I had questions on return edging.
On the ESB build, I'm going for centurion (ultimately), and want to do return edging to make the armor look more detailed / finished.
I wanted to know which parts of the armor are encouraged for return edge, and which are not. The forearm requirement is clear!
If anyone has any pics, other than the "how to" threads, I'd love to see the finished product.
I know the thickness - just wanted a look
Darren
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Unless it specifically states "no return edge" then you can leave one. It should be only 1/8-1/4in wide though. Inside means towards your body and the forarms should have no return edge. Like sskunky said you will find that in your initial build that you leave what looks good but then you have to trim due to it biting. Good luck and always post pics if you are not sure.
Got it! - the tops of the forearms don't need it anyway, so I was wondering about that term "inside". Thanks for clearing that up.
Can I round the corners of the ends (bottom)? Over time, on my other suit, it ended up wearing on my gloves, and since I'm going satin this time, I want to protect!
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Mark,
I'm 5'9", 170lb - size 9 foot, so that tells you that my forearms are the same size as my foot (wierd anatomical trivial fact!)
I will have to trim a little on the forearms & thighs (maybe bicepts & shins). But, then again, I trimmed a ton off of the FX kit, as it was huge on me to begin with, and that build took over 100 hrs.
I'm very meticulous, so I want to take the time to do it right, including hitting all major details - including return edge.
As far as I can see, most do the return edge on the chest,back & kidney plates, thighs, and some on shoulders.
I don't want to get too crazy with the heat sealing iron, as I have a tendency to run with things , so any & all tips are GREATLY appreciated!
Darren
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I'm doing the ATA, ABS kit & going for centurion, but I have questions regarding return edge: where to & not to do
I noticed in the req's that return edge to the "inside" the front of the forarms is not allowed. I'm just curious what that means.
What is "inside"? I've seen the threads on return edging, and I know it's a must on some of the listed parts for centurion status, I think it makes the armor look better, giving it a great finished look. Can I put a return edge on any of the parts (ie: thighs, bicepts, cod, butt..you get the idea!)
Can anyone tell me which parts of the armor should & should not be return edged, especially since I'm trying for centurion?
I've had the FX kit for last 6 yrs, and am finally upping my game! I want to look & be legit. I've seen alot of support on these boards, so I'm not afraid to ask questions, even if I sound stupid! - and believe me...more will come!
All for the Empire!
Darren
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Thanks for welcoming me in!
Cheers!
In His Grip,
Darren
AKA DAZZ
TK-9150
SGC/IES
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Hello fellow TK's!
My name is Darren, and I belong to the Southern California Garrison, and am in the Inland Empire Squad. I am a friend of Curtis Preston, a favored comrade to FISD. I have the StudioCreations "AFX" kit. I bought it from Jeff about 4 or so yrs ago, and it looks pretty good. The bucket is a little big, but no complaints, as it accommodates my fans and PA system.
I love being a part of the Legion, and being 40 yrs old, I was there when Mr. Lucas gave the world Star Wars. As a huge fan, I had many of the figures and toys. I always wanted a Stormtrooper helmet, but never got one.
Anyway, I wanted to introduce myself, and get some input on my costume. I would like someone to look at pics of my armor, and give me pointers on what I should do to look more "screen" accurate. Anyone interested in helping me out, send me a PM.
Stormys are in my mind, the best costumes (aside from Vader, who always steals the show!), and I celebrate with all of you, the Love for our crazy fetish.
TK-9150 reporting for duty!
For the Empire,
Dazz
aka Darren
New E-11...another satisfied customer!
in General Weapons Discussion
Posted
I'll make sure that I take a plethora of new pictures this weekend with natural light.
I'll get the details of the scope, folding stock, ammo clip...everything.
That way everyone can have a better appreciation for this blaster.