Midnyt17
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Posts posted by Midnyt17
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Ok, I guess I'll be the one to call out the elephant in the room.
Isn't the 1st pic not screen-accurate? Black bubble lenses,stripes, and teeth on the Tantive?
But seriously, all great and amazing pics. It's kinda hard to choose which one to put on my desktop
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Is there an Option D?
I'd say C is more "accurate" while B is more convenient to produce since you only need 1 rivet instead of 2. I know it only takes a few seconds to pop in that 2nd rivet but...
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"These suits probably won't get you into the 501st, but they'll get you high-fives and photo ops."
OMG! High-fives?! This is definitely a sure buy! I haven't had a high-five in awhile.
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So the next step is figuring out a way to implement this in the FISD. It would be fun especially in con style troops to have lower ranking members saluting higher officers and such. IDK. but yeah it could be fun.
Yeah. Hmm.. Could we use pinstripe tape for the ranking so we could change it whenever we "rank up"?
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Great job with the bucket so far. I was able to meet the 501st's representative from the Philippines at Celebration 5 this past weekend in Orlando, Florida. Chris Catanda. Unfortunately he wasn't able to bring his armor but I'm glad he made the very long trip to the states.
Thanks Daniel. I'm pretty happy with it. Even with all mistakes I've made; Like the gaps on the ears, rough paint job, etc. It's an experience.
I would've loved to have gone to Celebration and hopefully someday I will with the other troopers from Philippine Outpost.
Hey yeah only Chris was able to attend this year! sucks not being there though.
Martin you can do that asap.
Alright, will get on the mic tips as soon as I get back from my retreat. Is the outpost trooping at the Metro ComicCon this Saturday? I'm going on Saturday to sit in on the panels.
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I bow down to the greatness that is Daetrin
Where did you get that info? That's just amazing
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Hey Martin looks to be ok! As for removing the excess paint on your mic tips just use a cotton swab with a bit of lacquer thinner. rub gently till the paint gets off. Lovin the progress!
Thanks Luis!
How long should I wait before I work on the mic tips? Should I also wait a week or 2 before I try and remove the excess paint? or ASAP?
The helmet is getting shinier by the day. Still uneven but less rough. I'm getting more confident that a few rounds with polishing clothes would even out the sheen.
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Any have any reference pictures or a list of the possible ranking configurations available? Or are they just random?
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Took a look at my bucket today and some of the roughness has smoothed out. The bucket is looking pretty good. Although I'm going to have to even up the shine with some polishing clothes. As for the mic tips, they've dried up pretty well.
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Scratch that last post. I read around and I'm waiting at least a week before I do anything with the bucket again.
I'm pretty happy with how it came out. I'm just grateful I didn't get any orange peel although the whole bucket didn't come out glossy. I have parts where the paint is shiny but not smooth and glossy; it just has a bit of texture or roughness to it. Anyone have any tips on how to smooth/shine those parts up and even out the look of the bucket?
I also painted the mic tips. Does anyone have any tips on how to remove bits of paint? Because some paint seeped through under the mic tips which I wanted white.
Here are some pics:
Here are the paints I used. I decided to go with one brand all the way to make sure everything would work well together.
The mic tips. I taped up the back area, the screws and the front then held them up wearing gloves while spraying and rotating. A bit of paint seeped under the tape on the front side of one of the mics. Anyone have any advise on how to clean it up?
A picture of the bucket before painting
A before picture of the lens material that Alex requested.
After dry and wet sanding and washing with detergent. I wiped it down and let it dry up more for 30 minutes before I painted it.
After 3 coats of primer which was apparently clear colored.
After 6 coats of paint. See how the left side is glossy and the right side is a bit flat.
Close-up of the left.
Now the right.
I just got off the phone with LUIS TK-2155 (Luis) and he advised me to get some polishing cloths to get rid of the roughness and to help gloss it up more. Will probably buy them + some Tamiya enamels on Tuesday.
Will wait for at least a week or 2 before I work on it again.
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I just finished putting the 6th coat of paint on my bucket. Can or should I put on another coat even after it's been more than an hour or would I need to sand/prime it again?
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Haha, bilib ako dito he paints 1/72 aircraft using only a brush! I'd have to tell you he must be in the 10% market of all the modelers out there who don't use an airbrush. Plus I'd love to see his models!
But believe me as far as competitive modeling levels are concerned, modelers always use an A/B especially on aircraft,tanks,etc. I can't imagine how he does camouflage with his brush!
The reason he's successful when he uses acrylics is for a number of reasons. One, he's been painting with that technique for a looong time and he's already very used to that. Two, he uses 91% isopropyl alcohol. here sa pinas i can only find 70%. If you read that part where he says that too little alcohol and you'll get paint lines,paint will harden and stick to your brush etc, but adding more alcohol will let the paint pool and run on all sides..very tricky especially for a beginner on painting such as yourself.
Another bad thing about using acrylics on the helmet is it will chip off easily. Since acrylics are water soluble it's not the hardest and toughest of the paints out there. Give for example the vocoder, pag nagasgas yan against a surface since it protrudes it will reveal your white base coat underneath.the only possible solution is if acrylics are painted on a "matte" surface.it will stick on the base coat better but you will have to fine sand the places where you will apply your paints!
Don't get me wrong, i LOVE acrylics.. i use it on 80% of the models i work on, in fact my Finemolds Millennium, X-wing, and most of my model kits were painted with Acrylic paints.BUT i almost always use an Airbrush when applying it except of course for teeny tiny touch-ups where i have to use a brush, but when i add fine details or paint small parts i use Enamels all the time.
just give me an SMS. then maybe we can talk on a landline. Cheers!
Hahaha thanks Luis. I should've consulted with you extensively first before buying my Tamiya paints. I forgot you were a pro modeler. I now remember seeing your X-wing and Falcon at ToyCon.
I guess I'll just purchase Tamiya enamels next week. I still have to wait for my bucket to cure before I can paint it further anyway. I'll find some other use for the acrylics
I'm painting my bucket today. I'm actually in the middle of doing it now. I'm on my third coat of primer and I'm spraying my first coat of glossy white in 5 minutes. I'm following instructions on the can to the letter. I'm taking pictures of the whole thing and will post it after lunch. I also took a picture of the lens installed before I took it out. Will post that later as well.
I'll give you a call this afternoon to let you know how it went.
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Hi Martin. Believe me mas mabilis mabakbak ang acrylics. especially if you just hand paint them on a shiny surface such as your newly painted helmet.
I've used model paints for a long time, and i know mas forgiving ang enamels when you brush paint it on. It dries slower so the paint levels leaving a smooth finish. (as long as you add a few drops of thinner on the paint mix pallete. )
acrylics on the other hand are very tricky,They leave brush strokes on a flat surface when hand painted on because it dries faster. especially the tamiya and Gunze paints. you need to use Acrylic retarders(which are not easy to find) for the paint to dry slower when brush painting.
maybe the reason you saw that acrylics are for begginers is that is water soluble. so it's easy to clean. Use windex window cleaning fluid with ammonia for cleanups.
Enamels have the fumes, and can only be cleaned with enamel thinners. Use the Hardware enamel thinner for cleanups. no use using the expensive tamiya brand.
Oh and yes i'm back in manila. give me a ring anytime
Really? Alright, that kinda sucks.
I was set on buying enamels at first since the Humbrol paints were enamel but after reading this article and other threads on the net regarding "acrylics vs enamels", then having the saleslady at Lil's Hobby Center in Park Square 1 tell me that the acrylics were easier to use since they were water-based plus seeing the acrylic bottles were bigger compared to the tiny enamel bottles so looked more "sulit" I ended up buying acrylics.
The kicker is that Lil's has a sign in their store stating that they don't allow exchanges on their paints.
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acrylics are good for airbrushing. but when hand painting enamels are the way. dont forget to buy enamel thinner for enamel paints.
I forgot what tamiya paint number you have to buy, I know it's in one of the topics. I do know it's tamiya royal blue and xf? Sky grey?
I ended up buying acrylics after researching on them on the net. I just feel like I'll do a better job with them. Will try them out on spare plastic first before I use them on the bucket. If the acrylics don't work well then I can switch to enamels before I paint the bucket. For now, I only bought the gloss black (X-1) for the vocoder, light grey (XF-66) and clear (X-22) to mix to make it glossy for the teeth and ears. Will buy the blue for the ab buttons when I have my armor.
Thanks for all the advice Luis. Are you back in town?
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I would paint the entire bucket with rustoleum epoxy.
there are lot's of plastic model puttys and fillers. make sure you get one that
is compatiable with HIPS plastic.
sandpaper is your friend! water and wetsanding is the best path to take.
make sure you're dust free by washing it up with soap and water.
dishwashing soap like "dawn" is a good choice. you don't want soaps with
lotion, or any kind of mixture like that. just a plain degreaser.
I would love to use Rustoleum Epoxy but unfortunately we don't have that here in the Philippines. The only brands our hardware stores carry are Bosny, RJ London, Pylox, and ACE. There are a couple of cheap brand paints as well but I wouldn't even consider using those. As for the putty, the only one I've found is Tamiya Basic putty. Is that good enough to use as a filler for the gaps?
I'm sorry but could you explain to me how to wet sand? I have no idea how to do that. Is that just sanding while the surface and sandpaper are wet? or is there a certain kind of "wet" sand paper?
I actually bought a couple of sachets of dishwashing soap yesterday for cleaning my bucket before painting. I made sure that they didn't have any weird add-ons to them.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I really appreciate it.
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Hey Martin.
Helmet is looking pretty good so far. I've read through most of this forum and have thoughts and suggestions after recently finishing my own ATA kit.
You mentioned something about gaps in the ears, I'm not sure if ANH Stunt and EIB requirements allow you to use filler to fill those gaps, that's what I did for my ESB hero style lid. I like the filled look but I know it's not for everyone.
As for those entire holes, If they're covered by the ears they shouldn't pose much of a problem. And painting the interior of the helmet is definitely something I want to do at some point, or wanted to do. Instead we (Tkbondservnt and myself) just sprayed a clear coat in there. It added a bit of strength to the bucket. Additionally we were going for a more idealized look and primed the exterior a few times so we could sand down all the bumps and I mean ALL the bumps lol. This bucket is practically bump-less. My biggest suggestion, especially with this ATA helmet, is don't skimp on the paint. Several layers make it a lot easier to fix and clean up any scratches, dents, or dings. Lastly, on painting, we decided to not add a clear coat because most of the clear coat spray paints available apply a rigid finish and we though that we wanted there to be more flexibility. Our solution to this was to just add a few coats of Wax. Currently I only have one on my armor so we'll see how it holds up this weekend.
Anyway, it looks like you're making great progress. If you're ever nervous about trimming, use the sand paper to take of the extra flashing because it removes this plastic like butter!
OOOOO last question, how are you doing the lenses? A pic would be cool. Looking forward to see the next set of pics!
Thanks for all the suggestions and advice. Will probably do 3 coats of primer and 3 or more coats of paint. As for the inside, I'm still deciding whether the black color + the chemicals in the paint will make it more humid in there. But I will definitely look for that UV-protect wax you used and put it on my bucket. You did a wonderful job on your build and I'm actually going to take a lot of pointers from it when start painting my bucket and sometime soon building my armor.
I'm going to take a look at helmet again tonight and decide whether I'll keep the gaps or not. The front gap on the left ear doesn't bother me as much as the gap at the rear of the right ear. If I do decide to fill it in I'll probably use some Tamiya putty unless someone suggests something better. What did you use to fill in your gaps?
I'm probably painting my bucket this Sunday or Monday so I have a couple of days to work on final sanding and filling the gaps.
As for the lenses, I followed TK-4510's tutorial here to attach them. I'll take a picture a little later and post it.
Again, thanks for all the advice. I appreciate it.
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Thanks, Martin! I'll try that.... tomorrow...lol
I ususally don't have trouble sleeping-- just for the last couple of days...
Karin
You're welcome!
Hope you start getting good sleep.
Let us know if your sleeping habits improve.
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Do some intensive exercise about an hour before you go to sleep then stop all activity like TV, etc. around 30 mins. before you want to go to sleep.
My GF has terrible insomnia. She ends up just having to exhaust herself with exercise or walking or working just to get herself to sleep.
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Can anyone tell me the size/type of brass(?) screw that comes with the ATA kit? I need to get some extra washers and nuts to secure the lens material to the screws.
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The best local paints you can use are Tamiya ENAMELS. The only problem is the grey paints are in DULL FINISH. You can buy some CLEAR ENAMEL GLOSS to mix with the dull grey, but this will darken the hue of your grey. so make sure you buy a grey shade that is lighter in color. I think i still have some Humbrol #5 left that i lent to some of the Outpost. Pahiram ko nalang sayo. Just use sparingly
The decals that i ordered from mike was shipped directly to my doorstep. It's just an envelope so i guess it was nothing of interest to the customs post office.Just ask mike to have it shipped priority.
As for painting the helmet white i know there are a lot of build thread's here about it. Have you found the right hue for your white colored base? Don't be in a rush bro.. baka magkamali pa and mahirap na mag start over, or even worse stripping the paint off the plastic. it involves harsh chemicals and may damage the plastic.
If you have time i can talk to you over the phone on how to paint big surfaces with spray cans. I'm in Melbourne right now but will be home by friday. you can give a call then.
I'm going to try and get some Tamiya paints tomorrow. Should I strictly get ENAMEL or will ACRYLICS work as well as I read that they're easier to work with for beginners. I'm a complete newbie when it comes to paints and painting.
I'm planning to order a set of decals from TK-4510 (Mike) this week when I get my paycheck. If they don't go through customs and go straight to my doorstep then I'm definitely getting a set.
I've actually had a change of heart about my whole armor project. I needed to make a compromise. Will explain more when you get back in town. Will give you a call.
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Great pics! Would love to do something like that when I get my armor. Sort of like a random solo troop. What armor is that by the way if you don't my asking?
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ABS is the most durable.
HIPS is not.
When you say "HIPS is not" what do you mean specifically? Do you mean that it isn't durable at all? That it'll break with little to no force? How much force would be needed to crack HIPS? Is it even good enough for wearing or just displaying?
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Oh, and can anyone link me to a helmet painting guide? I'm going to paint the helmet this week (probably on the weekend) and I honestly have no idea how to do it.
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I ordered the Humbrol style paint for the tears traps and chin. Also I got the tube stripe decals from tk4510's website. Not sure about shipping out side the US or about getting them through customs.
I actually wanted to ask about that.
Since we don't have Humbrol nor Testors in the Phil, I wanted to know what kind of paint would I need to use for the chin and the other details so I can look for alternatives. Do I use glossy or matte paint for the chin? How about the tears? Teeth? All glossy?
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