VT Helmet Build[*VT]

[RogueTrooper[TK]]

LOL!! I am sorry I am not laughing at you but with you mate... I had a similar situation several years ago, when I first started doing hand laid fiberglass. The resin ate through the cheap gloves and believe you me that was a true life lesson!!

 

Life lesson : Do not buy cheap gloves

 

 

Looking good Stephen!

 

BTW I think this is the post you are asking about, Andy plasti-dipin' his AP bucket: TK-1287 ESB Build , From start to finish.

 

Pic 1 of Andy's AP helmet with plasti-dip:

 

Pic 2 of Andy's AP helmet with plasti-dip:

[Discharged_Mindriot]

Thats the one.

 

I'm thinking I may have to prepare with a light sanding before I get into spraying I know Andy said he didnt, but I want the paint to adhere properly without priming.

 

If I get chance I may do a bit of this tonight (Rain permitting)

[Discharged_Mindriot]

Side note: Seen a nice helmet padding system :

 

http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?show...mp;#entry121675

 

but cant seem to find anything like this in the UK, any ideas? Tried screwfix....

[Discharged_Mindriot]

Well, OK, I decided to grind off the folds from the oxygen tube, however, this left me with a split piece of plastic, my solution, mold a square piece of epoxy putty over the inside crack.

 

 

So heres the epoxy square:

 

 

Closer?

 

 

Then, I followed Andy's Plasti-Dip method (Paint available in the UK from http://www.plastidip.co.uk/index2.cfm ) this went on nice over both areators and these 2 new pieces of epoxy putty, not to mention over the ABS on the inside of the cap n back and the front face 'plate', without any priming or sanding.

 

 

 

Next step, cutting out the eyes and the teeth - 5 i thinks

[Discharged_Mindriot]

Just a quick question of anyone. My areators are completely flat at the 'bottom' and hollow. The areator socket is rounded - how do i fit?

 

[RogueTrooper[TK]]

Hey Stephen,

 

I have seen it done two different ways. The more commmon way is to drill a hole in the center of each port "socket" and and in the back end of the aerator (Hovi Mike Tip), if it is not already there. Then from the inside you put a smalll bolt with a washer through the hole, connecting your aerator (Hovi Mike Tip) to it, and just snugging it up ( do not over tighten). When drilling, make sure you have a bit that is slightly smaller than the bolt you are using, so the bolt will have something to thread against.

 

The other way is to hot glue gun it. But, if you are going to do this, you will have to wait until you have finsihed all your mods and paint job.

[Discharged_Mindriot]

Heh Tom,

 

Unfortunately it is completely hollow, all the way through I have a really badly casted set from VT which have the bolt in the back, so I could fill the areator in at the base and thread a bolt through, but as the socket is rounded the mic tip will not sit flush... is this how they should be?

[RogueTrooper[TK]]

Heh Tom,

 

Unfortunately it is completely hollow, all the way through I have a really badly casted set from VT which have the bolt in the back, so I could fill the areator in at the base and thread a bolt through, but as the socket is rounded the mic tip will not sit flush... is this how they should be?

 

 

Hey Stephen,

 

Can you show me a photograph of your areator, other than a side view? You are saying it is totally hollow. I need to see what we are working with. As for the ports on your VT helmet, they should be slightly rounded, like TE2, ATA and AP helmets. The back end of the arerator is not going to fit like a flat piece to a flat piece. If you are going to blot it in there, your are just suppose to snug it up to the port.

 

Here are some photographs of some screen used helmets. These will show you that they are not perfectly straight either.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[pandatrooper[TK]]

Most of the time, the aerator / mic tips have a solid flat base, and there's a bot sticking out the back with a nut on it.

 

You just drill a hole in the helmet (approx. center of the "bump") and place the aerator bolt through the hole, place a washer in the back, and snug it up.

 

Sometimes, the aerator bolt is not cast straight / centered, and or the hole you drilled is off, so some people will enlarge the hole slightly. Thats why you can use a bigger washer inside the helmet, to prevent the nut from pulling through the hole.

 

It's not an exact science, the film used helmets were rushed through production, so they're not "perfect" and neither are most builds, but you can usually fudge the alignment to look pretty good.

[Discharged_Mindriot]

Cheers both, however my issue is that the areator base is flat and hollow, and the socket is rounded (Oval rather than spherical)

 

 

 

Not sure if you can see my issue from the second shot, the areator stands off about 4 mm to the left and right but touches the socket at the top and bottom... I suppose I could use P38 (Bondo) to make an exact fit?

[TK-7980]

I've had it this way with all my helmets, the aerator will not sit perfectly in the mic tip recess.

[Discharged_Mindriot]

So.... best advice would be to live with it? I might have a look at taking a cast of the inside of the areator socket then reverse molding a installation base for my areators - I have them hollow in case I want to install a set of speakers at a later date

[RogueTrooper[TK]]

The easy way to fill the Hovi/areator is a dowel rod. If you try fill the Hovi/areator with putty, fiberglass ect, it might not hold. Hobby and hardware stores will have dowel rods. Just find one that fits tight, or one that is a little larger.

 

If you have to get a dowel rod a little larger than the hole, take a piece of sandpaper (60 grit) and wrap it around the larger dowel rod. Now with the sandpaper wraped around the dowel rod, hold it lightly but firmly with one hand and twist the dowel rod back and forth with the other hand. This will keep the dowel rod more round as you sand it down to a size that will fit inside the Hovi/areator.

 

Once you get the dowel to fit, only put the dowel rod half way through the Hovi/areator. Use E-6000 glue. Let dry over night. Once the e-6000 has cured, then cut off the excess dowel rod, and drill the hole in the center.

 

Then drill a hole in the center of each port "socket" round area.

 

Place the bolt through the holeof the Hovi/aerator, put a washer in the back, then just snug it up to the port "socket" round area.

 

 

[stukatrooper]

Simple way is always the best way mate.A cork wine bottle type if its to big trim some if its to small wrap electric tap round it. As Aleksandr would say "Simples"

[Discharged_Mindriot]

woo wooo somethings to try after I've done some prep for a job interview on wednesday... if the baby girl stops crying

[Discharged_Mindriot]

Right.... cut out the teeth and eyes (May need a bit of further trimming on the eyes) and started on the ears... rather tough if you ask me.

 

I have tried to stay 2mm shy of what looks like the trim line (to allow for variances in the rest of the lid - allowing me to sand to shape), but even so if the round section presses against the lid the 'stork' part sticks out about 1cm.... the only thing I can think to do is to bend it back i.e. heat it up and bend it....

 

Is this a good idea? Any suggestions on how to do this? I was thinking of sticking them in the oven until they were plyable - but not completely floppy - any tutorials on this? (PS Dont have a heat gun :s )

 

I'll upload shots of the build when I get home

[RogueTrooper[TK]]

Hey Stephen do not do anything via heat gun or oven ... upload some pics when you get home of with you are talking about, and we will be more than help to help find a remedy for your problem, mate

 

 

Right.... cut out the teeth and eyes (May need a bit of further trimming on the eyes) and started on the ears... rather tough if you ask me.

 

I have tried to stay 2mm shy of what looks like the trim line (to allow for variances in the rest of the lid - allowing me to sand to shape), but even so if the round section presses against the lid the 'stork' part sticks out about 1cm.... the only thing I can think to do is to bend it back i.e. heat it up and bend it....

 

Is this a good idea? Any suggestions on how to do this? I was thinking of sticking them in the oven until they were plyable - but not completely floppy - any tutorials on this? (PS Dont have a heat gun :s )

 

I'll upload shots of the build when I get home

[Discharged_Mindriot]

heres the lid atm - as you can see the eyes need further trimming:

 

Trimmed using dremel, files n sand paper

 

 

 

 

 

get the ears in a bit

[NoVATie[Admin]]

Looking good!

[RogueTrooper[TK]]

Yeah I see what you are talking about, this actually looks like the same problem that the first ANH srceen used helmets made out of HDPE had.

 

 

There are two ways to fix this:

 

1. sanding/filing down the ears on the back side, so they match the contour on the back part of the helmet. and sanding/filing the front part of the ear to match the contour of side of the face.

 

or

 

2. take a heat gun and try to heat the area up enough to make the back of the helmet more contoured to the side of the face....

 

If you do this BE CAREFUL not to heat to much or you will distort your helmet. and there's no coming back from that!!

[pandatrooper[TK]]

The mismatch in contour between the front and back isn't a huge deal since the ears cover the transition.

 

When you're cutting out the ears, do NOT follow the lines. 2mm is not enough room to leave for adjustments IMO. if done properly, you shouldn't need to heat gun anything.

 

Here's what I did on mine (I have built 2 lids so far with the same process with good results):

 

- take an ear piece and draw a circular pencil line around the round upper ear section. What I did was I drew the line around the “flat” part of the round, past the radius edge so that you have extra material. Yes, this will make the round part more thick / stick out more, but you’re leaving this as a safety margin. Cut along this guide line, you can slim it down later.

- cut a section out where the cheek tubes are, but leave tons of room. Again, 2mm is not enough.

- place the ear on the side of the lid, of course it’s not going to fit. But right away, you’ll know where to trim next. This is usually the transition from the ear stem to the “stork” section as you call it. Trim this a little at a time.

- the next section is the end or bottom of the ear piece (near the opening of the helmet). Trim this down.

- Now it’s closer to fitting, but still sticks out. This is when I start taking a pencil and begin marking sections that I need to trim off. At this point, I can trim the round section a bit more. I also make a “notch” in the round section, so that the edge of the back fits into the notch.

- keep making marks, keep trimming. I use a combination of curved RC car body trimming scissors and a Dremel with a round sanding drum

- keep trimming (this usually takes me a good hour to hour and a half per side. I prefer to leave no gaps if possible.

- once it fits really good, I sand the edges to take out any rough marks left by scissors or the Dremel.

- drill the holes in the ears first, then line up the ear piece on the lid. Then I drill the first (upper) hole in the lid. Using the ear piece and the hole you just made as a guide, drill through the helmet.

- insert the top screw / bolt (this keeps the ear in place), then proceed to drilling the other holes on the lid. I try to press down on the ear so that it lines up where I want to when the screws are holding it together. This will minimize the gaps even further.

 

Hope that helps. Maybe one day I’ll make a tutorial for this.

[Discharged_Mindriot]

Hi Guys,

 

Cheers for the advice. Panda there isnt a really a difference in the colour between the capnback and the face, so this is not something I noticed. The seam is generally covered by the ear, however the rubber brow needs replacing as I cut it too short right back at the beginning of the build :-s (inser idiot remarks here).

 

As you can see its merely the ear section which doesnt fit....

 

I was trying to do what you suggested Panda but I just seem to be taking away, I am guessing that when I screw in the ear part and then then push the section under the neck into place and screw that in it should look ok?

 

 

 

[RogueTrooper[TK]]

I think you need to remove a little bit were I have mark in red, the get the top (round part) of the ear the set more flush.

 

Do a little at a time.

 

[RogueTrooper[TK]]

And a little less removale to the front of the ear, Like where I marked it in red. don't do any removing of the round part , just work on this area of the ear.

 

[stukatrooper]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO !!! dont you dare cut any more off!

 

The screws will pinch the gaps

 

 

 

Right mate,first off the back and face plate will never match up they are two different shapes.The ears cover that area anyway.

 

The ears gap will never be fag paper thin.DO NOT worry about a slight gap it sort of adds to the helmets Character.There are thousends of helmets out there with gaps form 1mm to an inch (wow metric and imperial lol) they are all right.The screen lids again had good fitting ears and poor fitting ears.As long as you can not drive a bus through the gap then leave be.Looking at the pictures you done a good job mate.

 

If i were to trim anything more off the ears then it wound be at the bottom so the wedge is not so thick,thats all i would do.BTW the back of the ears is always going to have more trimmed off that the front because of the different shape.

 

like what you are doing and as for the brow rubber again why not leave it a little short ,alot of screen lids had short rubber.