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pandatrooper

Pandatrooper's Hasbro build

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Here's another Hasbro build. I've actually finished the blaster, just getting around to uploading the pics. I've got 2 of them, but eventually I'd like to do a nice pipe style kit with better detail. Primarily, I plan on using the Hasbro for when I'm not concerned about using it for troops, etc.. I wasn't too careful with filling holes in the resin parts as I may eventually replace them.

 

The thing I wanted to do with this build was be able to keep the resin parts removable. I want to be able to separate the halves at any time, because later I might want to install electronics or do some kind of lighting mod. Most people tend to keep their Hasbros permanently closed and glue the resin parts on, but mine will be easy to remove the part and get the internals.

 

I've got 2 Hasbros. I noticed the white one only has one light on the tip where as the black one had one at the base and one at the tip.

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Starting to sand all the lettering off

 

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This is called a "coupling bolt", got it from Home depot. I'm going to use it for the stock to join the 2 resin parts together, along with glueing them. This is so that I can have the stock swing in and out of position as 1 piece.

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I'm going to Dremel out the base of the stock arm, and glue / rivet the socket end of the coupling bolt into it. the bolt will pass through the bend metal arm part.

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Dremelled out a channel for the coupling bolt. Stay on target.... stay on target.... :)

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I roughened up the coupling bolt with the Dremel, and used E6000 to glue it in place. I also drilled a hole for a rivet.

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Rivet for the coupling bolt

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Job well done, just set it aside to cure. The rivet as snapped into place.

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Stock is fitted into place. Nice and strong, and it swings out in 1 piece.

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Everything has been prepped and sanded, ready for paint.

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A small way to add some detail: grind the not so great sculpting / casting on the stock, enlarge the hole to 1/8" and pop in a rivet instead.

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I also cut the stock retaining tabs (or whatever they're called) in half so that i can always split the blaster in half

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Prepping for paint (always washing parts in water with detergent, rinse thoroughly and hang to dry. Avoid using rags to dry as they can leave lint on the surface.)

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Primered

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Silver and gold base (gold for the scope, to keep it authentic)

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First of 3 coats of satin Krylon black

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Parts finished painting, drying before assembly

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I tapped holes for the magazine and Hengstler counter, so that they are extra secure (on top of E6000 glue). I didn't glue the Hengstler as I will upgrade it later

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I only glued the front muzzle on one side and secure it with a screw / hole drilled where the big allen bolt goes. Again, so that i can split the blaster if needed

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This is T bolt / chicago bolt, to hold the stock tight against the barrel. It can be easily unscrewed allowing removal of the stock, and the T nut is glued on the inside

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Assembled blaster (missing T track and weathering)

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I like your solutions, always something a bit different! Keep it up!

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Thanks Christaan!

 

Here's the final stages

 

Completed blaster. I did some gentle weathering for now, I'll do more later. I also made my own temporary T-track for now (until my actual T-track arrives). Made from some 2mm styrene, very simple.

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Painted the ejector port silver. I'll eventually grind this area out and add my own detailed piece inside and weather it.

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The d ring is a simple aluminum wire bend, fit into the cast piece.

I only glued one side of the D-ring plate to the butt of the blaster (the Hengstler side). I simply drilled a 1/8†hole on the left side of the D-ring plate, and a matching hole on the end of the blaster butt pipe.

Applied some E6000 to both sides, joined them, and for extra strength – popped a rivet through the D-ring plate and butt from the inside to secure them together. Again, this allows you to separate the blaster later if you want to.

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I added some additional holes under the Hengstler for better sound (not that the Hasbro sounds that great, but the whole point was to allow the blaster to be separated for when I want to install additional electronics.)

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That's it for now!

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Finished pics / weathering images added above, edited some of the descriptions. Should meet EIB requirements now. Enjoy!

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Great information. Now I've got more ideas as soon as my mod kit gets here from DoopyDoos. I just need to make my T-rack while I'm waiting.

 

But great ideas. :duim: I'd like to be able to keep my Hasbro blaster so I can open it and now I know how to do it.

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Good Job! And Yes, I too try to make thing's like blaster's 're-do-able" so you can add upgrage's like blaster core's. And you did a good job of weathering. never too much. good Blaster.

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How did you get the plastic pieces that are glued on off? It looks like you painted and replaced them back on at the end - right? I got the one off the tip fine, but the ones on the scope aren't wanting to come off, and I'm scared to brake the scope.

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You have to pull these parts straight off, they can't be twisted off because they have slots that stick out on the outside of the scope, and the rings have slots they fit into. On top of that, they are glued on.

 

I jammed a very small flat screwdriver into the gap between the outer ring and the scope and worked it all the way around the perimeter until the glue seal was broken. Do this to the front and back ring. I then used some narrow pliers on the front ring, and grabbed the cross hairs and pulled straight out. Don't worry if they snap, you're not going to want to put them back on with cross hairs anyways. Just keep prying at it.

 

The back cover ring has a hole in it. I jammed needle nose pliers into the little sight hole and pulled the ring straight off. Just used the whole cap end as leverage. Don't worry about damaging the flat part, as you can simply stick on a sticker or cardboard picture of a cross hair on top. You can also cut away the flat part, and leave a small lip, so that you can glue on some transparent red plastic to make new cross hairs, etc..

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okie, so i did this poorly (didnt get the glue on the underside well enough) and ripped the piece in half.. im gonna head to the local hardware store and see if i can get some plastic/metal pipe to fit over it... or maybe just bondo and shape it if i cant find the right pieces, any other ideas?

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You should be able to find a small section of pipe to replace it. Really, it's not that big of a deal. For like $10 - $15, you can get a resin cast of a real M38 scope, which is way more accurate anyways. You could just cut the Hasbro scope off and mount the resin scope on a rail.

 

http://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11...lica-1475-p.asp

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They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery...

 

I thought your ideas were great so I used your techniques on my hasbro. Using your ideas, there is really no reason to epoxy the swing arm to the gun. Thanks for your help!

 

Photos updated. The silver and bronze under lying paint have been applied. Black paint next. At this point you'll notice I've left off the tip and painted it seperately (to get the inside of the barrel black without the LED light in the way).

 

Final pics posted 12/15/09. I'm happy with the results.

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Its helping me too, I'm also turning mine into a laser tag gun... so being able to take it apart if something happens to the electronics inside is important :lol: the friends i laser tag think its kinda geeky, but awesome nonetheless (outdoor lasertag, we use areas similar to airsoft - but we're wimps and dont want to get hurt)

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Wow, great work Terry. What grade/type of sandpaper did you use? Thanks!

In addition to the sandpaper question, which I'm also curious about, I have another question. In a different thread you mention using car bondo to fill in some holes on the Hasbro. Can you give some indication of which holes you filled?

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I used 400 grit to take the lettering off, and a Scothc brite pad to scuff the plastic for better paint adhesion.

 

Some people like to cover the screw holes used to assemble the blaster (they are mostly on the right side of the blaster). Use car bondo to fill the holes.

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Hi Terry

How did you take the front and back cover for the Scope? I am trying and i dont want to break it

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You have to remove the sleeve on back by pulling them straight off. The back one has a slot inside to prevent it from spinning. I used a hobby blade and small flat screwdriver to pry it apart and break the glue seal, then pull it off.

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