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Kev's TK Build[*CAP]

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Great looking build Kev. Should be EIB in no time :D

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Those tablecloths clasps work well. Don't try to bend them too many times into shape though, they don't hold up to repeated bendings :P

 

Thanks for the advice...

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Very intresting, its coming along very nice, one question.

For the elastic that connetcs the back plate with the butt plate, did u just glue the elastic to the plate? and if so with waht?

AbButt3.jpg

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Very intresting, its coming along very nice, one question.

For the elastic that connetcs the back plate with the butt plate, did u just glue the elastic to the plate? and if so with waht?

 

 

Yes I used the E6000 clear. I first laid out were I wanted the elastic strips to go and lightly used a pencil and traced them. I clamped the kidney and butt together where the lips edge meet, with the spring loaded style clamps. I then brushed some glue onto the armor then pressed the elastic down into the glue. I then taped over to hold them in place. I peeled up the tape after an hour. I did not want to wait too long and chance the glue to stick to the tape or something. It was the first time I have used this glue and wanted to try it because I have heard a lot of good things about it. I will tell you this it can be very messy. But the glue held up fine when it got soaking wet from the wet sanding.

 

Kevin W.

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I am VERY high detail orientated.

 

Absolutely, that's why we appreciate your "stuff" so much!! The armor looks great! Hope you are feeling better chief.

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This was a reply I gave to someone who asked me about the paint I chose for my build and why. I thought it my be helpfull if others are looking at my build for guidance.

 

Ok first thing Never mix different brands of paint! If you use Krylon stick with it from start to the finish. If you use Rustoleum use it from start to finish.

 

I would NOT use the Krylon Fusion for this project. I do use the fusion for my clone builds but they get sanded and weathered to look used, not shinny.

 

Sand the armor parts first before primer. I used a FINE grit sanding sponge. Use the white Krylon Primer and let it dry for at lest 2 days. Then wet sand the primer with the fine grit sanding sponge 320 grit followed by 600 grit sand paper.

 

Let it all dry then paint the parts with Kyrlon Glossy white paint. Make sure the parts are not close to each other when you paint, you do not want overspay to get on them and dull down the shine. I put 2 good coast of white paint on all the parts. I did not use clear, I am rubbing out the shine with Novis Polish.

 

The reason I don't think you should use the Fusion is... if using the Krylon Gray paint for the ab plate, the ears and frown on the helmet, they do not work well together. The gray with the white fusion will make a cracking effect to the paint.

 

Kevin W.

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You use the Novis Polish? I thought that was for plastic. Does it come out pretty good? On the Fusion paint, Does the cracking happen when you use the testor paints for the details? I used Rustoleum on the armor I am working on right now. Almost has a grey tint it. You said the Kyrlon has a yellow tint to it. Do you know if the Fusion is more of a milky white.

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You use the Novis Polish? I thought that was for plastic. Does it come out pretty good? On the Fusion paint, Does the cracking happen when you use the testor paints for the details? I used Rustoleum on the armor I am working on right now. Almost has a grey tint it. You said the Kyrlon has a yellow tint to it. Do you know if the Fusion is more of a milky white.

 

 

The Novis Polish works great for buffing out the paint too. If your paint job is good then the NP just makes it more smooth like glass.

 

The Krylon Gloss white and the Fusion white are the SAME in color. Call it what you want, Milky white, Off white. It IS still white. I am just pointing out the tiny details. All will be fine if you use the same paint for all your armor parts and helmet.

 

I always seems to have trouble with 2 out of 4 cans of the Rustolem brands not praying right or curing right. So I don't use it unless I need to. I do have a bunch of different color can on my shelf. If I have white I might do a paint test to show.

 

Kevin W.

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Hey you might need a different avatar for this board B)

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OK so I take back some of what I said about the paint colors being the same. They are all different.

Take a look. This is NOT the best picture to show the true shades of the white. I might take another one in the daylight tomorrow.

PaintSamples.jpg

 

Here is a pic of the parts "NO Flash" after they were primered with Krylon white and painted with Krylon Gloss White and after they have been rubbed out with Novis Polish.

PaintNovis.jpg

 

If you look close to the ankle area of the shins... Look inside and you can see the bluish tint of the styrene.

 

Kevin W.

 

Ok so what Kind of avatar do I need? Clone are just as good as TK's? LOL

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We will give you a nice award when you hit EIB. This is a fantastic thread so far :)

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Wow-- you weren't kidding about being detail oriented.

Showing us comparative paint swatches? Awesome!

 

This is a great thread! Thanks for being so thorough!

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Looks great Kev! When you get you photos done, i will make you an avatar brother!

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Looks great Kev! When you get you photos done, i will make you an avatar brother!

What's up Mike!

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Right on :) interesting to see the different tints of the white paints. Great stuff Kevin. I really like how the legs look being painted after they are built. Going to have to do that on my next build :)

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Looks like this is THE thread for CAP / ATA builds! Do you think Krylon Fusion would be a good option for a TD build?

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What's up Mike!

 

 

- What is up brother!

 

I will be working on the same set here in a few months and will be following this thread to look as much as K-DUB as I can, because I know his will be SUPER ACCURATE!

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Looks like this is THE thread for CAP / ATA builds! Do you think Krylon Fusion would be a good option for a TD build?

 

 

The nice thing about going dirty is you can hide some of the flaws.

So the Fusion should be fine for building a TD and the nice thing is you will save some money and NOT need to buy primer. The primer is helpful to fill in all the small flaws when trying to go shinny.

 

But for either build make sure to sand the armor first (with a fine grit). Before applying primer or fusion paint.

 

If you use the Krylon Fusion brand you might have some difficulty when it come time to paint the gray. If you use the Krylon brand gray, you should put it on with very THIN coats and let it dry between the coats. You will have a better chance of the gray sticking without getting the cracking effect this way.

 

Something else to consider is what type of paint are you going to use to make your armor have the dirty look.

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If you use the Krylon Fusion brand you might have some difficulty when it come time to paint the gray. If you use the Krylon brand gray, you should put it on with very THIN coats and let it dry between the coats. You will have a better chance of the gray sticking without getting the cracking effect this way.

 

I don't mean to sidetrack this thread.....Would there be a problem using Humbrol paints for the helmet details on top of the Krylon Fusion?

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Well... my armor is painted white and it's just waiting for me to have more time to continue...

AllPainted.jpg

 

Kevin W.

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looks really good there Kevin! B)

Where did you find the tube for your thermal? Is that 2inch pvc painted grey?

Anyway, great job! :D wish I was that far. Thanks again for the help.

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Well... my armor is painted white and it's just waiting for me to have more time to continue...

AllPainted.jpg

 

Kevin W.

 

That stuff looks super shinny! I love it! Can't wait to see it complete!

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looks really good there Kevin! B)

Where did you find the tube for your thermal? Is that 2inch pvc painted grey?

Anyway, great job! :D wish I was that far. Thanks again for the help.

 

 

The Detonator is a white 2 inch PVC pipe painted with Krylon Classic Gray.

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