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Primer and Paint


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Darth_Finger said:
Is this an ok combo?

to paint this armor set with?

Well, you'd like to see this thread: TE2 Stunt build up , You dont wanna miss this!

Posts #47 and #60

In that thread Mike (TK-4510) used Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Sandable Primer to prime the helmet:

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And Rust-Oleum Professional High Performance Enamel (same one you're using) to paint it:

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This is what he said about it:

TK-4510 said:
Painting! I have to give credit where credit is due here. Mike Harrison TK-1536 talked about using a special paint on his website a year ago and I tried it. Its REALLY great paint and matches FX ABS and most other armors very well. Its GLOSSY as ABS as well. It does have specific rules that you cannot violate however. Rule #1 FOLLOW THE CANS DIRECTIONS!! Spray your coats on 5 minutes apart and do not re-coat the paint "later". If you think you will be OK to repaint the helmet in a few days, you will sadly be mistaken. I know from horrible experience. I painted some armor with this stuff and decided to add another coat a day later and the WHOLE armor set turned into a krinkly mess... If you follow what I tell you here you will do VERY well :) Heres another tidbit that I learned the hard way. If your running low on light and decide to paint outside at night with a spot light on the helmet.....THE BUGS WILL LOVE IT. They will come from near and far to land on the glossy white thing!!! They will die in the sticky goo... Thats a real bummer when that happens......Anyway..

 

The magic paint is called Rustoleum Professional High Performance Enamel. The sku number is #7592 Gloss white. It comes in a tall silver can. You can find it at Home Depot. This stuff is like nail polish once it dries.

 

Stick the helmet on a pole in the yard or somewhere you can get alot of spray mist in the air and not piss anybody off. If you paint in the garage, use a mask and open the door cause this stuff is insanely stinky. Also move or cover anything you dont want paint dust on. Go over the helmet and check one last time for anything that needs to be taken care of. You dont want to seal a mistake for ever, do you? :) Shake the paint can for about 3 minutes straight and really mix it up good. Start by applying a nice even normal coat of paint all over the helmet. When I spray I hold the can about 8-12 inches away from the helmet and spray left to right from top to bottom and UNDER the rim a bit too. Imagine the helmet as a pie. Spray a slice left to right from top to bottom and move on to the next slice working all the way around the helmet. Do this until sure you've covered the whole thing. Once you have done the first coat, wait 5 minutes.....(shake between coats for a few minutes)... Now do it again, working all the way around with a nice even coat. This paint lays on really nice and thick so not too much now, just a nice even coat...That was the second coat......(shake the can and wait 5 minutes). Now the 3rd and last coat, again nice and even....

 

Once it has been covered in glossy goodness you will need to move it back in doors. I have a place in my garage that I can stick the pole with the helmet on it where nobody can get to it. CAREFULLY put your helmet (holding the pole only) in that spot that will be secure. DO NOT touch the helmet for any reason for at least 48 hours (2 days). I recommend 3 days for a nice hard shell. The helmet completely cures in about a week.

 

So I will pick back up in three days! :)

The results, as you can see in that thread, are gorgeous. :D

Here you have 2 pictures:

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Edited by gmrhodes13
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Dang he did a killer job on that. The gloss white is awsome paint. I painted a TE helmet using this paint without primer. I wanted paint chips and cracks of course :) I want to make sure I use the right primer for the armor. Dont want this chipping.

 

Primer is primer, there really isnt a "right" primer. You should be good with what you got especially if its the same brand just follow the directions and the steps and you should be good to go.

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How about clear coating when your all done? Has anyone done that?

 

I clear coated my scout trooper , it definetly gives it a real nice glossy look. You pretty much have to do it like another coat right after your last coat of your base color or else it will turn into a wrinkly mess.

 

its also really risky since clearcoat especially over a glossy surface can be extremely difficult because you cant tell how much paint youve applied since its clear which make runs and dripping a real common problem.

 

With this kind of paint though you really dont need to clear coat its just kind of overkill. With three solid coats of this stuff, if your doing something thats chipping the paint then clear coat really isnt going to help.

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  • 11 years later...
6 hours ago, Sn4k3 said:

Hi guys, what about apply a clear coat directly on top of the abs? No primer no white paint.

 

Has anybody dome that?

Not sure why you would want too, ABS does flex and you could find the paint cracks or chips over time. ABS can be polished if you have scratches or marks so doesn't need a clear coat.

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On 10/13/2020 at 4:45 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

Not sure why you would want too, ABS does flex and you could find the paint cracks or chips over time. ABS can be polished if you have scratches or marks so doesn't need a clear coat.

Instead of adding a clearcoat just polish the ABS using car buffing products,  anything painted on ABS armor will eventually chip/flake off

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Not sure why you would want too, ABS does flex and you could find the paint cracks or chips over time. ABS can be polished if you have scratches or marks so doesn't need a clear coat.
Alright, does that products protect the abs from turning yellowish?

Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

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Just now, Sn4k3 said:

Alright, does that products protect the abs from turning yellowish?

NO clear coat or polish will not stop ABS from turning yellowish. I trooped in a set of ATA for 7 years and suffered no yellowing, main issue is reaction to UV light. 

 

I don't see many have issues with yellowing, it may have been something with older ABS.

 

There are some things which can help return to white:

https://www.instructables.com/Restoring-yellowed-Stormtrooper-armor/

 

 

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NO clear coat or polish will not stop ABS from turning yellowish. I trooped in a set of ATA for 7 years and suffered no yellowing, main issue is reaction to UV light. 
 
I don't see many have issues with yellowing, it may have been something with older ABS.
 
There are some things which can help return to white:
https://www.instructables.com/Restoring-yellowed-Stormtrooper-armor/
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Got it.

So there is a product for UV protection, the P40 that he mention, have you tried?

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8 minutes ago, Sn4k3 said:

No I have not tried, not had any yellowing on any of my costumes 

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