Aren't I a little too short, skinny, and old to be a Stormtrooper?? WTF ANH Stunt build

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Have a look through some other builds, many makes have to trim their smaller plate just to fit on the raised section, here's some pre-approvals

 

Here's someone else who trimmed too much of their large ab plate

    

 

 

[Bikrtrash[501st]]

Right, I fully understand and have seen many pics during prior research, all show the painted plate being small enough to have room for the flat edge.

 

If I'm lucky there MIGHT be a 1/16"  that I could add before hanging beyond the raised portion of the armor- as the WTF kit has these parts apparently made too large...

Sounds like there needs to have some/any edge? so hopefully I don't get punished for armor maker sizing issues.

 

Do my fellow WTF kit users need to purchase/3D print somebody elses plates that are smaller to install on the armor piece?

Edited November 3, 2025 by Bikrtrash
added a repair thought

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

A couple of WTF EIB

 

 

 

His earlier large plate had dimples

 

 

[Bikrtrash[501st]]

Perfect pictures, thanks!!! Yep, they all had the same issue and had to barely leave a tiny edge as to not go over the armor plate. 

My plate had the dimples as well...brand new kit this year after waiting about 3 months....head scratching...but irrelevant at this point- I shall make it proper. 

 

Thanks for all the help! 

[Bikrtrash[501st]]

I went to town hacking away on some stuff! Thighs are sized, return edge removed at the top, and some left at the bottom on purpose.
Shins are sized, but need the rear opening cut to butt correctly after I try them over my boots. Return edges removed from the bottom but some left on top on purpose.
Used a heat gun for preliminary curving of thigh ammo belt
I plan on final trimming all pieces for height when I have my torso done to ensure proper clearances for looks and movement.
Measure 6 times and cut 12!

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[Bikrtrash[501st]]

Forearms and biceps are sized. Forearms have return edges removed top and bottom, I kept a little bicep edge just "bulk me up" Al little since I only have 11 1/2" biceps. I'm planning on putting in a little black padding if I get armor bite and need to remove them.
I noticed that one forearm is round, and the other is very oval-shaped...do I leave that or reshape it be round?

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[Bikrtrash[501st]]

So the sniper plate has no defined area to trim it where it tapers down on the sides....I have seen pictures of people making them pointy and squared off.
I haven't found anything to help determine if either is detrimental to Centurian- thoughts please?

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[Bikrtrash[501st]]

I really need some help on the helmet from my fellow WTF builder crafty type people!
I used the recommended mounting holes for the faceplate, but very large gaps on the sides (that get covered by the ears) make me think I should I should trim the top where I have tape and move the faceplate up about 3/16".

I'd really appreciate input from those experienced helmet builders!

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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

2 hours ago, Bikrtrash said:

So the sniper plate has no defined area to trim it where it tapers down on the sides....I have seen pictures of people making them pointy and squared off.
I haven't found anything to help determine if either is detrimental to Centurian- thoughts please?

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Reference material:

 

For Level 2 the Sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners, and must be aligned with the ridges of the shin.

 

                                       

 

NOTE:  For a more screen accurate look, it is suggested that the top of the rear ridge of the sniper plate be aligned with the top ridge of the calf. Also note that 

            the sides are angled rather than curved.

 

                                             

 

L2 EIB approvals for comparison

 

 

 

 

 

2 hours ago, Bikrtrash said:

I really need some help on the helmet from my fellow WTF builder crafty type people!
I used the recommended mounting holes for the faceplate, but very large gaps on the sides (that get covered by the ears) make me think I should I should trim the top where I have tape and move the faceplate up about 3/16".

I'd really appreciate input from those experienced helmet builders!

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Nice work on the teeth and vocoder. 

 

Personally I would only cut off the uneven vacform mold roughness while trying to cut it straight, remember the brow trim will sit over this area. You do need to bring it down as it is quite high at the moment, most of the open area will be covered by the ears but should sit a little lower on the cheeks. It's easy to trim off more later but hard to put back on 

 

NOTE titling the top/rear will also change the opening size so watch that when adjusting. Also you put on the helmet sideways, over your nose then turn straight, they don't go straight on. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some great threads on fine tunning and getting the ears to fit well, small steps, sand, check, sand, check, sand check.

 

Just on this side the last line in your tear/trap is angled, they normally follow the same angle

 

       

 

Brow height 

 

Stunt

 

                    

 

 

[Bikrtrash[501st]]

I will get back to that helmet after I get some more confidence on cutting and reshaping, lol.

I had a couple hours this holiday weekend so I did some final size adjustments on my legs. The left thigh needs about another 1/8" or so tightening but I am happy where I ended up!



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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looking good so far

[Bikrtrash[501st]]

For those budget-challenged builders like myself, I thought I would share the tools that I have been using. Lexan scissors, half round file, nail files, cheap dial caliper - all from Amazon.
A lot of manual labor here, but totally controllable.

After the rough cuts (slightly oversized)with the scissors, file/sand as needed for final sizing and smoothness.

I also have a harbor freight belt sander that comes in handy for quick material removal that is not as dangerous/fast as a Dremel. I find it more controllable than a Dremel and it can do nice radii AND straight lengths- dremels can't do straight edges!

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[Bikrtrash[501st]]

So I decided to return to the helmet.....
I moved the faceplate up about .300" as I determined this is where it appears "happiest". It isn't too far up the brow (some minor trimming where I have the black lines needed though) and the side gaps should be able to be dealt with normally. Any feedback before permanent attachment is appreciated!

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[Bikrtrash[501st]]

Since the WTF mic tip is so bad, I did a lot of research and found what I believe is the most accurate to the real part of there!
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/accurate-prop-wars-star-stormtrooper-hovi-mix-pa2-aerators-stormtrooper-communic?srsltid=AfmBOop4lmJvgqg2KN03Ow5vMSVygrFl4nW-5ZhlsfIQ9mmZb0Rmj6EQ

I printed the base without the barbs so it's flat and put a machine screw in to secure it to the helmet. In hindsight I should have just screwed the base to the helmet and spun on the tip, but I "overthunk" it and applied epoxy to attach the screw permanently to the base.

I also bought UKswraith correct mesh screen and formed it by pushing it through a hole of the correct size with a socket. Sometimes the simplest way is the best way

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[Daetrin[Admin]]

Hmm...fascinating. I wonder how these compare to RS's, which he claims are from the original found part.

[Sly11[Admin]]

11 hours ago, Daetrin said:

Hmm...fascinating. I wonder how these compare to RS's, which he claims are from the original found part.

Check out this from our gallery.

This is a complete original plumbing fitting the helmet tips originated from.

 

 

Or these that were up for sale

 

And to tie it all together this from  RS

 

 

[Daetrin[Admin]]

Nicely done @Sly11 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

It's odd they changed the mesh, original hovi's mesh is a lot smaller than what was seen on screen

 

 

RS EIB approval

 

Screen reference 

 

CRL EIB

Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh

 

 

 

 

[Sly11[Admin]]

I'm wondering if the original manufacturer had at some stage changed the mesh they were using for the tap fitting itself.

Could have been for a few reasons, like supply chain, or minor design change etc.

Fun to speculate none the less 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

On 3/9/2026 at 9:54 AM, Bikrtrash said:

Since the WTF mic tip is so bad, I did a lot of research and found what I believe is the most accurate to the real part of there!
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/accurate-prop-wars-star-stormtrooper-hovi-mix-pa2-aerators-stormtrooper-communic?srsltid=AfmBOop4lmJvgqg2KN03Ow5vMSVygrFl4nW-5ZhlsfIQ9mmZb0Rmj6EQ

I printed the base without the barbs so it's flat and put a machine screw in to secure it to the helmet. In hindsight I should have just screwed the base to the helmet and spun on the tip, but I "overthunk" it and applied epoxy to attach the screw permanently to the base.

I also bought UKswraith correct mesh screen and formed it by pushing it through a hole of the correct size with a socket. Sometimes the simplest way is the best way

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Came out awesome

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

19 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

It's odd they changed the mesh, original hovi's mesh is a lot smaller than what was seen on screen

Maybe a casting to get the volume they needed? 2 tips times 56 is a lot of tips and they would have probably struggled to source that many tips.

[Bikrtrash[501st]]

I found some time and took WAAAAAY to long to get my leg armor done- wow did that sniper knee plate take a huge amount of reforming to get to properly align with the top ridge. I think I finally have it correct though!

I also noticed that the ammo belt that goes around the thigh armor sits at a tremendous "uphill" angle instead of being level - I compared this to a couple Anovos suits yesterday at a troop, and there is a lot of difference between that and the WTF suits- I hope one you can tell me If I need to somehow change something (and what it would be) to get this to work for Centurian.

 

 

-------------My Talkatap apparently locked up, so I'm  working on getting that working again to post the pictures!

 

[Bikrtrash[501st]]

Thanks to the admin that got the "bot barrage" situation figured out!
If I lower the ammo belt on the thigh to be more level it will expose the ridge- I thought about raising the back a little bit I figured that would be a Centurian stopper if I did that.
Here are my pics for recommendation/random comments


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[shashachu[TK]]

Nice job! I remember really having to try hard to get the sniper knee aligned. As for the ammo belt, mine is also tilted up like that, so probably just the way Walt's molds are. I got Centurion several years ago, but it wasn't mentioned at all in my application.